Fat Lip build - Page 2 - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
 
Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum  

Go Back   Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum > Brand Specific Tech > Chevy
Notices

Reply
 
Share Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 07-13-2012, 12:30 PM   #26 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Member # 142460
Location: Eastern Kentucky
Posts: 72
Send a message via Yahoo to muddy ink
as of 7-12-12 the motor sets in on its own stands.. Direct weld in plates. Have pictures soon. Coming together pretty good..

Now whats left
__ drivelines
__ Need to buy and install a shifter
__ Need to get wiring harness and ecm clipped and flashed
__ Radiator needs to be installed
__ Battery relocated
__ New Brake Lines
__ Locate a starter and Alternator
__ Finishing welding in braces
muddy ink is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-27-2012, 01:55 PM   #27 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Member # 142460
Location: Eastern Kentucky
Posts: 72
Send a message via Yahoo to muddy ink
If I go with a rear radiator. The last one I had problems with when you go up a steep incline the air in the top of the radiator would float to the motor. When this happened it would create a air pocket causing the motor temp gauge to seem as if it was running hot. The at that time I put a reservoir above the highest point to solve the problem. But just never seemed right after that. Also the muffler shop installed 2.5 inch exhaust tubing to the rear for the water flow. Is that to big? or do I need that size or water flow? I never upgraded the water pump and it seemed to flow just fine. but it took a whooping 8-9 gallon to antifreeze to top it off. could I go with a smaller diameter exhaust pipe or should I stay away from exhaust and go another route or just leave a front mounted radiator?
muddy ink is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Old 07-27-2012, 02:50 PM   #28 (permalink)
semi pro hack
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Member # 27166
Location: Boise, Id
Posts: 80
What headers are those?
twistedjack is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-27-2012, 02:58 PM   #29 (permalink)
just a welder
 
87FSBrad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Member # 20677
Location: Moline, IL
Posts: 401
Quote:
Originally Posted by muddy ink View Post
FML!!!!!... I have heard by several people that these are in fact 70's.. According to the grapevine these are stronger than 60's.. But, im only going on word of mouth
Not 100% sure but if its funky big six lug its a 60, if its a 70 it will be 8 lug. If your front is indeed a 70 I think they are stronger too. bigger ring gear(10.5" vs. 9.75"), stock 35 spline outers(I think) and never seen a pic of a broken knuckle on those axles. But there is much less of them so it will be more unlikely to see them anyway.
__________________
My S10 truggy 42's, Atlas 4 speed, tons and whole lot of rolled tube

4bd1t/NV4500/205 and some tube ready to into the next daily driver expedition vehicle with "modest" size tires.
87FSBrad is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-29-2012, 12:41 AM   #30 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2007
Member # 91791
Location: san diego ca
Posts: 1,167
Send a message via AIM to g-wizz
so if that is a dana 70 which it could be, the knuckles are backwards. they are supposed to be behind the pumpkin. also it probably has weird shafts. tracta joint or something. some say they are strong some dont, either way its old tech, and when it breaks you prob wont be able to find parts. what chu going to do about the drums? and yes it has a bigger ring gear, carrier and what not.

that front axle likely came from a early 70s dodge truck, check if it has leaf spring perches and measure them to be sure.
__________________
74k20 with 6bt nv4500, 203/205, d60, 14bolt, lots of metal and booger welds... one of these days.

Last edited by g-wizz; 07-29-2012 at 12:43 AM.
g-wizz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-02-2012, 11:05 AM   #31 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Member # 142460
Location: Eastern Kentucky
Posts: 72
Send a message via Yahoo to muddy ink
Thumbs down

Well.. The headers are for a 99-02 camaro ls. Im trying to build around them and having a time.. Just found out Monday that the shafts are going to be $761 for front and back.. $400 something for the front alone.

And there has been a lot of questions about the front and rear axles. Some ppl everyone that has mentioned them (in person) says they are 70's from a 67-72 dodge truck. You guys have gotten me worried about IF the axles break IM FUCKED!! kinda thoughts going thru my head.. No one has mentioned that they are anything other than a 70. And as far as the drum I suppose I'll have to live with them until I can do a 60 upgrade Which will be hopefully this winter. Im just trying to get it ready to ride for the rest of the year. Then ANOTHER tear down will be in progress. Then shortening the wheelbase and powder coating.
muddy ink is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-02-2012, 11:30 AM   #32 (permalink)
Zeus of the Sluice
 
the_white_shadow's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Member # 103621
Location: East Bernard, TX
Posts: 2,766
Quote:
Originally Posted by muddy ink View Post
If I go with a rear radiator. The last one I had problems with when you go up a steep incline the air in the top of the radiator would float to the motor. When this happened it would create a air pocket causing the motor temp gauge to seem as if it was running hot. The at that time I put a reservoir above the highest point to solve the problem. But just never seemed right after that. Also the muffler shop installed 2.5 inch exhaust tubing to the rear for the water flow. Is that to big? or do I need that size or water flow? I never upgraded the water pump and it seemed to flow just fine. but it took a whooping 8-9 gallon to antifreeze to top it off. could I go with a smaller diameter exhaust pipe or should I stay away from exhaust and go another route or just leave a front mounted radiator?
I use 1.25" hose and tubing to route my radiator in the bed. You, as you know, ideally want the radiator cap as the highest point in the system. If its not, the way i bleed the system, is by installing a petcock in one of the upper hoses in the engine bay, that way you can crack it and get some of the air out. I also back up up a steep hill/mound/ditch/etc to ensure the radiator cap is the highest, then bleed the system. Gets all of the air out and no more overheating. Oh yeah, and find a taurus e-fan to run out back.
__________________
--Alex--

1982 Toyota 4x4 - The Dirt Squirrel: Phase II underway: 4.3L CPI, TH350, Marlin 4.7s/D300 doubler, D60/14B/5.13s, f150 leafs up front, artec 4-linked rear, Coilovers, blah, blah blah.
the_white_shadow is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-06-2012, 11:38 AM   #33 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Member # 142460
Location: Eastern Kentucky
Posts: 72
Send a message via Yahoo to muddy ink
I'd love to have my radiator behind me. But I had a lot of trouble last time..
muddy ink is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-07-2012, 10:41 AM   #34 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Member # 142460
Location: Eastern Kentucky
Posts: 72
Send a message via Yahoo to muddy ink
does anyone know of where that sells 15x? rims that'll fit these damn axles? I need at least a 10" wide preferably 12".
muddy ink is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 09:09 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.6
Copyright ©2000 - 2013, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 ©2011, Crawlability, Inc.