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Old 10-09-2012, 08:19 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Now takeing donations, For the "GET MICHELL A DANA 60" fund........... :)
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Old 10-18-2012, 09:10 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Old 10-18-2012, 09:57 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Well, if you have seen my other thread... I've been having problems with the diff overheating STILL. But I think I finally have it fixed.

First time I tore it apart (after it was rebuilt and under the truck), I replaced the carrier bearings and set the pre-load correctly (was off the first time - never turned the passenger side spanner to add pre-load). The bearings were pretty scored, so I figured that was the problem. Well, it didn't fix it. Was still running hot.

So I got very pissed off and pulled the pinion support out a few days ago and the pinion bearings were TOAST. I don't know why I didn't think to check before I put the axle together, but the races and cones were completely different brands (races were already in the pinion support, so thats probably why). I'm guessing the bearings were cobbled together to build the axle for a trail rig. It probably worked fine for a long time as a trail rig axle as well... but at highway speeds the bearings just ate themselves up. See below...






Soooo.... I bought new everything. Even the third member bearing. All timken too, so they ought to last forever. I figure I may as well do it once now and have peace of mind.

Tower of sockets (check pinion pre-load... in-lb torque wrench was 1/4" and the 1.5" socket was a 3/4")... I think its funny.



Tuesday night:



Yesterday... (Tried removing the third member bearing with the carrier still in... didn't work so I pulled the carrier):





Today... (notice the wet street around the truck - of course it was raining... but luckily not enough to seep under the truck much, so I stayed mostly dry. MOSTLY lol):



Contact pattern is still pretty good. Its a little toward the heel of the teeth, but its really close to perfect. The backlash is only a thousandth higher than what it was when I set the diff up initially. It's at 0.007" now. Not too shabby - still almost dead center of the spec.





I also figured since I have the diff cover off... I might as well make it match the front - errrrr, I mean reinforce it to make it stong - since the 3/8" plate cover isn't 'strong.' LOL!





I do think it looks pretty sharp/tough now. I'm happy I did that while I had the cover off. Also, you'll notice the rain never let up -_-



Going to let the RTV seal cure overnight and fill it with some 85w-140 tomorrow. Going with the more viscous stuff for peace of mind. Plus it's as Valvoline synthetic blend that was on sale at carquest for $7/quart. Not too bad, I'd say.



This weekend, I hope to start welding all the brackets on that I can while keeping the truck driveable still. The weekend after I think is when the IFS comes out, but we shall see.
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Old 10-19-2012, 04:56 AM   #29 (permalink)
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Maybe it is just me or the angle of the pics, but that pinion seems low for the truck.
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Old 10-19-2012, 06:24 AM   #30 (permalink)
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It is a little bit low. I'm planning on doing a shackle flip once the front gets done and that will raise it up a few degrees. But I think the angle also makes it look worse than it is, as well.
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14B FF w/ Grizzly Locker, 2pc 1410 Rear Driveline, KP Dana 60 HP, NP241
Rock Sliders, 37" MTRs, Bilstein 5150s, Hydro Assist (tapped Borgeson box)
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Old 10-21-2012, 05:20 PM   #31 (permalink)
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So... I was worried the axle may still overflow, so I made a catch reservoir.




Got the leaves painted...



I'll be assembling those tomorrow or Tuesday.



And got this in the mail on Saturday





And finally, started mocking up brackets. Unfortunately the rear shackle hangers are set up for a 39.5" frame width and mines 36.5". Luckily, I have a buddy SASing his 97 so hes' going to buy the correct kit for me and we're going to trade.

Should save me a lot of work modifying the rear hangers.







DERP-A-DERP is this where it goes???? :P

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14B FF w/ Grizzly Locker, 2pc 1410 Rear Driveline, KP Dana 60 HP, NP241
Rock Sliders, 37" MTRs, Bilstein 5150s, Hydro Assist (tapped Borgeson box)
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Old 10-24-2012, 10:25 AM   #32 (permalink)
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cool build. i like reading these daily driver builds. any updates?
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Old 10-24-2012, 10:49 AM   #33 (permalink)
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Not really. Excpet that I've decided to scrap the idea of using the SKY kit and make my own. If I use the rear hangers from the 6" kit, my caster and pinion angle of the diff would be off by about 4 degrees.

I figure I can get hangers from DIY4x and make my own front hanger/crossmember piece - then make some shackle hangers for the rear. All of this will be at the correct height. Plus, I can yield about 4" of lift from the brackets without having to use a zero-rate for an extra inch like I had planned.

I sent Kert an email suggesting what I had planned on using, to see if he has any unlisted parts that could help me out or if he could custom fab me something to save me a little bit of time/effort.

I plan on simply modeling the whole thing in CAD in the next few days, for shits and giggles.
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2001 Z71 Silverado, Ext. Cab, 5.3L V8 - BUILD THREAD
14B FF w/ Grizzly Locker, 2pc 1410 Rear Driveline, KP Dana 60 HP, NP241
Rock Sliders, 37" MTRs, Bilstein 5150s, Hydro Assist (tapped Borgeson box)
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Old 10-24-2012, 11:04 AM   #34 (permalink)
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Where you located? What Parks do you wheel?
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Old 10-24-2012, 11:37 AM   #35 (permalink)
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Where you located? What Parks do you wheel?
I live in Champaign, IL. I'm originally from St. Louis.

I've wheeled Badlands (hour or so away, so this is most common), Haspin Acres in Laurel, IN, Washita Trails in Farmington, MO and St. Joseph in Farmington.

My plans are to make it down to Kentucky to do the Harlan County Trail System once the truck is dialed in, and then make a trip out to Moab once I've bulletproofed it. In the nearer future, I want to make it to Redbird SRA in Indiana as well.
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2001 Z71 Silverado, Ext. Cab, 5.3L V8 - BUILD THREAD
14B FF w/ Grizzly Locker, 2pc 1410 Rear Driveline, KP Dana 60 HP, NP241
Rock Sliders, 37" MTRs, Bilstein 5150s, Hydro Assist (tapped Borgeson box)

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Old 10-29-2012, 04:22 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Soo quick question for you Dana 60 connoisseurs. I'm designing the front suspension right now and need to figure out the caster angle in relation to the spring perches.

Caster I know should be at least 4.5, correct (this will be a daily driver - so I need good highway manners)? If this is the case, what is the difference between the spring perches and the factory caster? I also know the difference between the pinion and the knuckles is 9.5. I would assume the perches are dead center between these two but I'd like to verify this first.

Basically I need to know how to angle the springs... Anyone?
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2001 Z71 Silverado, Ext. Cab, 5.3L V8 - BUILD THREAD
14B FF w/ Grizzly Locker, 2pc 1410 Rear Driveline, KP Dana 60 HP, NP241
Rock Sliders, 37" MTRs, Bilstein 5150s, Hydro Assist (tapped Borgeson box)

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Old 10-29-2012, 07:12 PM   #37 (permalink)
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I want to say when I measured a GM issued D60, with the perches at 0* the kingpins were at 2* positive caster (per say). But don't hold me to it, go get a $10 angle finder and check to be 100%.
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Old 10-30-2012, 06:56 AM   #38 (permalink)
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I want to say when I measured a GM issued D60, with the perches at 0* the kingpins were at 2* positive caster (per say). But don't hold me to it, go get a $10 angle finder and check to be 100%.
Yeah I figured that would probably be the best bet. I'll swing by HF tonight and pick one up, if I don't have one here at work.


Not to mention the GM version may have a different setup due to the Low Pinion.
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2001 Z71 Silverado, Ext. Cab, 5.3L V8 - BUILD THREAD
14B FF w/ Grizzly Locker, 2pc 1410 Rear Driveline, KP Dana 60 HP, NP241
Rock Sliders, 37" MTRs, Bilstein 5150s, Hydro Assist (tapped Borgeson box)

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Old 10-31-2012, 11:56 PM   #39 (permalink)
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Awesome build I am looking at doing the same thing you are doing to my 02 GMC sierra but I just want a off road capable truck and really use it to pull a camper and what not. I am not sure if I read the post right but did you say you got a sky manufacture front hanger? I have searched a little bit on the SAS kits but not to much. Most of what I have found is stuff for a 2500 or 3500 which is weird because I do not think there is a difference in the frames between them and a 1500 but I could be wrong. Have you had any problems with the brakes after you clocked the calipers on the 14 bolt the way you did? What are your plans with the ABS? I have not re-searched the swap all that much so I am paying attention to what you are doing. I heard that you have to get a slip yoke eliminator for the front of the t-case when running the solid axle but I am not sure how true that is. I know that you have to run a Ford front if you keep the stock t-case but if you want to run a Chevy axle in the front you have to use a NP241 or similar t-case. That is pretty much all that I have gathered you got me wanting to jump into mine.. I have to start searching for more parts. I'll be watching your build, any updates?
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Old 11-01-2012, 07:11 AM   #40 (permalink)
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Awesome build I am looking at doing the same thing you are doing to my 02 GMC sierra but I just want a off road capable truck and really use it to pull a camper and what not. I am not sure if I read the post right but did you say you got a sky manufacture front hanger? I have searched a little bit on the SAS kits but not to much. Most of what I have found is stuff for a 2500 or 3500 which is weird because I do not think there is a difference in the frames between them and a 1500 but I could be wrong. Have you had any problems with the brakes after you clocked the calipers on the 14 bolt the way you did? What are your plans with the ABS? I have not re-searched the swap all that much so I am paying attention to what you are doing. I heard that you have to get a slip yoke eliminator for the front of the t-case when running the solid axle but I am not sure how true that is. I know that you have to run a Ford front if you keep the stock t-case but if you want to run a Chevy axle in the front you have to use a NP241 or similar t-case. That is pretty much all that I have gathered you got me wanting to jump into mine.. I have to start searching for more parts. I'll be watching your build, any updates?
You read incorrectly. I planned on using the sky kit but it was made for a wider frame and needed ridiculous amounts of modification so I'm making my own.

There is a big difference between the 2500HD and 3500 frames compared to the half ton frames. The widths are the same, but they are indeed different.

The brakes work fine, I just need to clock them to about 5-oclock to get them to bleed is the only issue. One (warmer) day I'll clock them to about 5-oclock permanently (will have to drill 8 holes through 3/8" steel). ABS is going bye bye.

NP241 transfer cases do not have slip yoke fronts, so obviously it wont need a slip yoke elminator. That is what I'm replacing my NP246 with. I don't think you can even get a slip yoke eliminator for an NP246. I know you can with an NP261 though, but an NP241 would be plenty strong. It is very true that you cannot run a slip yoke on the front of the transfer case. There's just too little driveshaft for it to work correctly. You must have a non-slip yoke output and a telescoping driveshaft.

The GMT400 body style truck NP241s are driver drop. The other NP241s are passenger drop and would be required to use a Chevy solid front axle. Also, the only P-drop NP241s with the VSS are the 88-91 SUV NP241s so they're a bit hard to find.


No real updates yet. I have to get some dental work done today and thats gonna take a huge hit on my wallet.
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14B FF w/ Grizzly Locker, 2pc 1410 Rear Driveline, KP Dana 60 HP, NP241
Rock Sliders, 37" MTRs, Bilstein 5150s, Hydro Assist (tapped Borgeson box)

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Old 11-01-2012, 05:57 PM   #41 (permalink)
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Ouch dental work that hurts your mouth and wallet at the same time. That has to be the worse kind. I know the NP241 is fixed front yoke and the rear is a slip yoke. The NP261 is a slip yoke front and you can buy the slip yoke eliminator for the front. But to do a solid axle swap with a truck that has a NP261 you have to either get a slip yoke eliminator or a NP241. They do not seem to have much SAS kits out there so customizing a kit seems to be the way to go. I am not sure if you can SAS a 2000's truck to be at stock height or about 2" higher I have to look into it more but that is what I was looking to do is sas with the truck sitting at stock height or about 2" higher. I guess the oil pan gets in the way so I have been told you will need about 5" of lift but I am not sure about that. I'll be watching your build maybe I can see if it will work or not. Thanks for the response and your truck is looking good cant wait to see more.
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Old 11-01-2012, 10:06 PM   #42 (permalink)
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Ouch dental work that hurts your mouth and wallet at the same time. That has to be the worse kind. I know the NP241 is fixed front yoke and the rear is a slip yoke. The NP261 is a slip yoke front and you can buy the slip yoke eliminator for the front. But to do a solid axle swap with a truck that has a NP261 you have to either get a slip yoke eliminator or a NP241. They do not seem to have much SAS kits out there so customizing a kit seems to be the way to go. I am not sure if you can SAS a 2000's truck to be at stock height or about 2" higher I have to look into it more but that is what I was looking to do is sas with the truck sitting at stock height or about 2" higher. I guess the oil pan gets in the way so I have been told you will need about 5" of lift but I am not sure about that. I'll be watching your build maybe I can see if it will work or not. Thanks for the response and your truck is looking good cant wait to see more.
As far as I can tell, the reason for the 5+" of lift is because the frame rails are so narrow under the cab. Of course the oil pan is a big concern as well, but the 88-98 trucks can be SASed with as little as 3" of lift so I question what the limiting factor is. I think since I have a bodylift I have a bit more room to play with above the frame for brackets and such.
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14B FF w/ Grizzly Locker, 2pc 1410 Rear Driveline, KP Dana 60 HP, NP241
Rock Sliders, 37" MTRs, Bilstein 5150s, Hydro Assist (tapped Borgeson box)
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Old 11-02-2012, 02:18 PM   #43 (permalink)
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theres a 2001 chevy here in town that has a chevy 44 6 lug up front. its maybe2- 3 inches taller than stock. with using stock steering i see it possible with very limited up travel. i will try to get pics
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Old 11-02-2012, 03:13 PM   #44 (permalink)
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I'd love to see some pix of that. I haven't been under the truck enough to say how low it'd be possible to go. My goal is to be as low as possible and still stuff the 37s and have a lot of downtravel. Would prefer 4" of lift if there's no clearance issues between the steering/D60 pumpkin and the frame/engine/etc.
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14B FF w/ Grizzly Locker, 2pc 1410 Rear Driveline, KP Dana 60 HP, NP241
Rock Sliders, 37" MTRs, Bilstein 5150s, Hydro Assist (tapped Borgeson box)
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Old 11-02-2012, 06:10 PM   #45 (permalink)
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As for the up travel, i used a hp 60 and have about 8-9 inches of lift( with coils). I have about 4.5 inches of useable up travel till it hits the trac bar xmember which is 2 inch square. Now tho you wont have that x member so u can prob get away with 6 inches of lift. But id imagine you will be cutting.... carry on.. im ready to see how it comes out..
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Old 11-02-2012, 10:16 PM   #46 (permalink)
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Keep in mind the HD frame is a lot heftier and has a lot more shit packed into it.
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14B FF w/ Grizzly Locker, 2pc 1410 Rear Driveline, KP Dana 60 HP, NP241
Rock Sliders, 37" MTRs, Bilstein 5150s, Hydro Assist (tapped Borgeson box)
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Old 11-10-2012, 07:55 PM   #47 (permalink)
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I'm sitting at 9 inches of lift and I could go down another 1" in my coils and still have 5 inches of uptravel. I will also be taking off my bodylift when I switch to hydro boost so that will take it down another 3 inches so I'll be sitting at 5.5-6 inches of overall lift in the not so distant future. I also kept my NP246, and ABS. slip yoke will be fine with link suspension, just not leafs. But that's an entirely different subject.

Good build so far, I'll upgrade to a 14sf later on down the road but I've managed to not break a 10 bolt after a couple years of wheeling so we will see, I'm pretty gentle on the skinny pedal
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Old 11-11-2012, 08:46 AM   #48 (permalink)
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Got any pix of it not flexed? I'd like to see the stance.
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14B FF w/ Grizzly Locker, 2pc 1410 Rear Driveline, KP Dana 60 HP, NP241
Rock Sliders, 37" MTRs, Bilstein 5150s, Hydro Assist (tapped Borgeson box)
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Old 11-11-2012, 03:52 PM   #49 (permalink)
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Old 11-12-2012, 08:00 AM   #50 (permalink)
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I'm diggin it. I'd love to sit a few inches lower than that.
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14B FF w/ Grizzly Locker, 2pc 1410 Rear Driveline, KP Dana 60 HP, NP241
Rock Sliders, 37" MTRs, Bilstein 5150s, Hydro Assist (tapped Borgeson box)
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