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Old 11-20-2003, 06:24 PM   #1 (permalink)
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S10 Sas

I posted on another board. guess the guys there arnt too smart about these thing. but any how.
my girl friend is gettign the serious wheeling fever. and wants to build this old 84 S-10 blazer that we have that still runs. I was thinking since it has the rather anemic 4banger in it a 4.3 swap would be in order and and she want to get that body kit from tatonka off road.

next is where I come in. she really dont like the rather pathetic and weak IFS on the front and is seriously jelous of my toyota's SAS. she wants the same. in front of her play toy. can any one point me in the general direction of where I can find sites that sel parts for this or has any one done a write up on there S-10 SAS? I would greatly appreciate any help
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Old 11-20-2003, 09:56 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Just use Toyota axles. Seems like you have experience in that department

The S10 axles are 7.5" rear 26-spline, and 7.25" front, so Toy stuff is already a good bit better. SAS will make the 4.3L fit better - you won't have to shell out for a stupid "s10 4x4 only" oil pan and oil filter relocation kit.

The 4.3L will need a different tranny though. The 5-spd that came behind the 4.3L in the S-trucks can be hard to find. A complete engine, trans, and t-case from an 88-up (IFS) fullsize may be a better choice.

I believe the 3.8L Buick v6 (Series II) shares the same bellhousing pattern as the 4-banger if you want to explore that avenue.
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Old 11-20-2003, 10:01 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I used full width axles for mine with YJ springs up front, it works great. I fucked a jar a of warm peanut butter once, that didn't work so great though
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Old 11-21-2003, 09:12 AM   #4 (permalink)
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All the t-cases that were ever offered on an S10 were drivers side drop, so whatever axle you get make sure it has the pumpkin on the drivers side. you will probably need the bigger readiator for swapping to the 4.3, so it wont overheat. You can find tons of info on the SAS on www.s10-4x4.org
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Old 11-21-2003, 09:44 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
I used full width axles for mine with YJ springs up front, it works great. I fucked a jar a of warm peanut butter once, that didn't work so great though
You let your dog like if off afterwards?

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Old 11-21-2003, 01:48 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Go with a set of diffs from a 4 cylinder YJ (the Dana 30 35). The pumpkin is on the driverside and they have 4.10 gears from the factory. I used a set of YJ spring up front and the stock s-10's in the rear.
In terms of the engine swap, the 4.3 swap is just as much trouble as doing a v8 swap if the truck was not an original equiped with a 4.3. Another engine swap that is very common is the 3.4 swap out of a Camaro.

Again check www.s10-4x4.org
This site will give you all the details on more of what I've said and many many other ideas. It's the main site that I use to research info and it has helped me greatly in creating the beast that I've got today.
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Old 11-21-2003, 02:48 PM   #7 (permalink)
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d30/d35 ?????

Get some real axles. As far as the SAS goes, it's not any different then a Toy SAS. Just gotta make some brackets and put some springs in. I believe that your steering box will work fine for crossover, but you might need a different pitman arm. Atleast get a d44 in front, and I'd suggest a d60 for the rear. If you are going to do an engine swap, why not get yourself a v8? Don't get me wrong. 4.3 is nice.

Either way, get her a TBI or Vortech engine to begin with. Take lots of pics, and do a write up on the whole project.
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Old 11-21-2003, 03:03 PM   #8 (permalink)
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It's just with the toy axles you're going to have to change the whole driveline (every s-10 came with the driverside pumpkin). The dana 30 35 swap is the cheapest and easyest swap to do into on of these trucks. I also forgot to say that you can also use a full size EB fro the Dana 44 and 9" (since the dana 44 is driverside).
If you're changing the motor tranny and tcase then you axle choices are endless.
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Old 11-22-2003, 11:29 PM   #9 (permalink)
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http://pub154.ezboard.com/bs10extremists
-lots of SAS swap stuff here
http://www.setstr8.com/
-They make a kit for S-10 SAS swaps
www.s104x4.com
-Good stuff here too, theres a write up under tech articles.
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Old 11-23-2003, 01:49 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I put a 44 and a 9" from an early bronco under mine. Same width(within an inch or two) as factory. Plenty of gears and aftermarket crap for these two axles at a cheap price plus, as light as the S10's are would make for a nearly indestructable drivetrain.


Don't go with the D30/35, a pedal car will kill those.
Aim for a D44 or better for the front.
Of course if you want alot more stability you could go with a full size set of axles which would give it a much wider stance.

This was a TOTW a while back- http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=144003
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Old 11-23-2003, 02:33 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I forgot the Toy front axle has the wrong drop. No shortage of RH-drop t-cases for GM trannies though.

While a D30/35 might be cheap, the ring gear size is 7.20" and 7.562" respectively. Stock '84 S-10 is 7.25" front and 7.5" rear Still don't have locking hubs (disconnect instead). And you can't even cheap out and run the stock wheels (different bolt pattern).

Might as well step up to something with a bolt pattern that accepts a stout locking hub and healthy sized bearings - either 5-on-5.5" or 6-on-5.5".

EB, Waggy, Scout, or CJ axles are where I'd set the minimum. Even consider narrowing a fullsize Ford HP44 - can be done in a couple hours with a grinder and chopsaw.
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Old 11-25-2003, 06:08 PM   #12 (permalink)
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below are a few pics of mine, Few things though, the 3.8 is NOT the same bell as the 4 banger, the yota axles will NOT work with the chevy drive train, unless you use 86 and earlier fullsize. The early bronco axles are total turds, many of the 4 cylinder jeeps came with 3.73 gears. Look for a cherokee with the 2.8, most of them came with 4.11's, the hp dana 30 front is lighter and stronger than the lp 44 or 30 that came in the early bronco (ask me why? everyone else does) the jeep axles are cheap and make a good swap in the s10. I used isuzu rear springs to do mine but am currently swapping to coils and fullsize hp D44, I hate the idea of having hubs though, its more weight and another part to break but I'm gonna give em a try.



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Old 11-25-2003, 06:23 PM   #13 (permalink)
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It all depends on what you are looking to use the truck for and how you drive. On the topic of a dana 44 being weak, I'm not too sure of that. Had a buddy that ran 38 and 44" swampers on a dana 44 for 3 years with very minimal breakage and this guy would beat on the truck every time he was out. Something that won't work for one person will for the other, it all depends on your driving style and the size of rubber that you're planning to run.
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Old 11-25-2003, 07:21 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I totally agree, to an extent. Thus why I run the hp dana 30, as you can see I run 35 or 40 inch tires depending on terrain. I have minimal breakage. I also run dual t-cases with a 7.1:1 low range multiplying the torque to my axles and lockers. I run the rr D30 rather than early bronco axle cuz the 30 has tj shafts with 297 u-joints and the EB axles run only 260's unless ya get high dollar aftermarket. Also, the 30 shaft while being what 27 spline, is just as big a shaft at its smallest point as the eb shaft is at its smallest point but dont have the machined point just out from the splines to break. The reverse cut gears make up for the smaller ring gear and then some, it likely has a stronger ring and pinion because of this. And last but not least, if you want any kind of lift on a solid axle s10, you need the HP front diff to keep a drive shaft on it, the hp will offer much better clearance over trail obsticals as well. I am swapping to a full size 44 now but i'm not sure if its really worth it, the 30 has treated me well and is real easy to fix when it does break (as all axles do)
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Old 11-26-2003, 11:43 AM   #15 (permalink)
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I'm actually running a FS dana 44 in the front right now. I had some wicked probs with the driveshaft till I moved if forward. The one that I've got now I built myself and tried it last weekend with great results. What I'm really scared of id the 12 bolt truck in the rear. I've been thinking about putting in a custom 9" in the rear or a possible 60 but I've got other parts of the truck that really require money right now.
I've actually got some problems with the front suspension being too soft (custom YJ springs with the centre pin moved 2" forward). The springs are stock lift and are the same as the old ones (less the centre pin mod), but that and the fact that I'm running YJ shocks cause the front end to be WAY too soft (this is the biggest prob that I've got to solve before next summer). Thinking of getting a military wrap on the front spring or a add-a-leaf but not sure yet on the best route to go. I'm not a huge rock or mud person and prefer running trails with a mixture of all terrain.
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Old 11-26-2003, 02:29 PM   #16 (permalink)
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blah blah blah blah......
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Old 11-26-2003, 04:53 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by Foolsize
blah blah blah blah......
ok, you're done.
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Old 11-27-2003, 11:51 AM   #18 (permalink)
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My setup

I have a '97 s-10 ex cab. The bed is gone and I shortened the frame 14". I went with a HP dana 44 with the HD outters. I put a Dana 60 in the back (30 spline with no problems.) I'm running the stock 4.3 4L60E and stock 233 t case and 5.13 gears w/35" tires. I turn about 2500 RPM on the freeway.

I'm running the ford C radius arms and coils for a 6" lifted Jeep. The buckets are just wide enough to clear the frame, but they rub a little sometimes. The dia. of the jeep coils fit the buckets fine. I welded johny joints to the end of the radius arms to help flex.

If the old truck had AC, take out the condenser and see if that helps the cooling if you drop in a v6 or v8, it helped me a lot.
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Old 11-27-2003, 12:20 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Do you have any pics of your rig. I'd really like to see it. It sounds really sweet
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Old 11-28-2003, 03:34 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by Oxblood
I used full width axles for mine with YJ springs up front, it works great. I fucked a jar a of warm peanut butter once, that didn't work so great though
Could you inlighten use??
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Old 12-05-2003, 05:45 PM   #21 (permalink)
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well this thread is a few days old, but oh well, guess I can update it a little bit. I am running a D30/D35 in my ZR2 (for the time being) a few reasons I decided to use them both they were already geared to 4.56s, had new ball joints, and the mounts for my control arms for my 4 link were already there and the rear was disc brakes which is nice as well..I also got the pitman arm from the grand cherokee that they were pulled from, so that gave me my 4" drop arm that I needed. I got these axles really cheap since I knew the guy that had them. They made a great platform for building my first 4 link suspension and I learned a lot...also i did not use lift coils from a jeep, like SFAZR2, I used 12" Fox coilovers with dual rate coils and remote resivoirs.
The rear I just went with SOA and shackles, although it does need some AALs back there.
I am eventually going to upgrade when I get some of my bills that i acquired while doin this damn project....so hopefully they will last me long enough to have some fun in the mud and on some light duty trails.

Brian
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