can't get rotors off?

[deleon87]

well i can't seem to figure out how to get the rotor out.
I've gotten as for as this in pic1 from the hub



pic1

i now have to get the inner part out and this is where i can't fugure it out on how to get it off here is pic2 showing the inner part what do i have to do to get that part out?

pic2


thanks

[4x4realm]

If all you have removed is the hub from picture 1 there is a nut in there still that has to come out. There is a special socket for it that you can get at most parts houses.

[hy_desert_4wheeler]

This guy must be a computer wheeler cause he sure isnt a hands on wheeler.... but at least he is trying to learn....go buy a repair manual before you leave something out while putting it back together or break something taking it apart......

[Cheepin]

You should get yourself a manual.But looking at the pics you still need to get the rest of the hub out.There is a big snap ring holding the inner hub assembly in.Pull this and you will see the wheel bearing locknut.You will need a special socket to remove this.Remove this nut and you will see a lockring.Pull this out and there will be one more wheelbearing nut.Pull this and pull the rotor and bearing asembly off the spindle.Keep the rotor with the inside down.This way you won't loose the outer wheelbearing.Too get the rotor off of the bearing asembly knock the studs out.Before you put it back together replace the inner wheel bearing seal and pack the bearings.If you need more help let me know.Blazin

[ranger]

You need to take the wire retaining ring out of the inner lip of the hub. It's called a snap ring, but it looks like a wire bent into a circle. You can get it out with a scribe. Once that is out you can pull the inner part of the locking hub out.
Once thats off you will see a spanner nut. Behind that is a locking plate that engages the slots in the nut with tines. You will need to push the tines back out of the slots in the spanner nut in order to remove the spanner nut. Once this is done, use the special spanner nut socket, cost around $20 at Kragens, to remove the nut. Once the nut is remove you need to take out the locking plate. Under the locking plate is another spanner nut, remove this also. This si the nut that is used on reassembly to adjust the bearings. All thats left is a splined washer. You can pull the rotor and hub assembly off, make sure you catch the front bearing when you pull off the hub/rotor assembly. If it falls on the ground it will bend the cage and won't be able to reuse it...
If your trying to separate the hub from the rotor, you need to remove the lug studs from the hub. You can get these pressed out at a machine shop, which will cost $10 a stud , or you can knock em out yourself. The best way to to it is use an old lug nut, thread it on the stud, hit the nut with a BFH a couple of times. This method works pretty good and prevents you from fawking up the treads on the studs.
I would recommend getting a Haynes manual and follow the directions they provide, a picture is worth a million words.

[Zambine]

I gotta say Haynes manuals show you dick about your hubs but as long as you get that 4x4 socket from a local auto parts store your rotor should come off in a flash. Then you just gotta put the rest together as best you remember it came off, but if you pull the axle shafts remember to check your differential to make sure everything is in order. You might as well replace all your berings and your races while your at it, it will pay off later.

[deleon87]

Originally posted by hy_desert_4wheeler
This guy must be a computer wheeler cause he sure isnt a hands on wheeler.... but at least he is trying to learn....go buy a repair manual before you leave something out while putting it back together or break something taking it apart......

i think not, just asking before i go fawking something up, never delt with d44 before just toyota axles SAS my toy with a d44 up front reather ask someone that has done this before and do it right the first time.

[pcorssmit]

Chevy 44s don't use the lock ring with the bend-in tangs, they use a special washer with a bunch of holes, one of which you have to line up with a tit on the inner nut.

When you put it back together you have to properly adjust the wheel bearings and torque the outer nut.

Haynes manuals suck dick, as do Chiltons. The only good ones for a GM are HELM.

Pete

[mj]

Mitchell manuals are pretty good

[pcorssmit]

Yeah, forgot about them. Would definitly take one over a Chiltons/Haynes, but still prefer the HELMs.

Pete

[deleon87]

Thanks alot guys for the help shit was too easy once i got i bit of help from you guys got the speacial socket shit came off real fast,

now i can;t get the rotor off of the outer hub shit looks real stuck there is nothing that i have to take of to get them apart right?

thanks again for the help.

[charlo]

No, the lug bolts hold it on using a machine pressed compression fitting. Drive the lug bolts out with hammer/ mallace or whatever. Sometimes good to use a puch otherwise you will flatten the threads on the lug bolts. New ones are cheap though. Getting new lug bolts in can be a pain in the ass sometimes. The rotor and hub have to be perfectly snug or else you will have a horrible pulseation in your brakes like me.

Charlo

[Shaker]

Originally posted by deleon87
Thanks alot guys for the help shit was too easy once i got i bit of help from you guys got the speacial socket shit came off real fast,

now i can;t get the rotor off of the outer hub shit looks real stuck there is nothing that i have to take of to get them apart right?

thanks again for the help.

Knock the studs out...then you'll be able to remove rotor.....it is a tight fit but hit with rubber mallet and it should pop loose....