Pirate 4x4 banner

Custom Front Inner Fenderwells How-To

1K views 8 replies 8 participants last post by  Frozen ZJ 
#1 ·
I know that on a 70-80era chevy trucks (fullsizes including blazers) it is recommended to move the front axle up about 2 or 3 inches to mount on 42 or 44 inch tires if you want to keep your truck low (i.e. no suspension lift). I am assuming you need to remove your front inner fenderwells (or do some kind of modification) or your huge tires will hit them even before full flex.

Do you have any good tricks on making new inner fenderwells? Relocating the heater core/fan? Pics? I searched like heck (not only on pirate) so i thought id post.

Thanks :goofball:
 
#3 ·
I don't think most people even spend the time on custom inners they just remove them. 42-44" tires on no lift you are gonna have to move forward more than 2-3 inches. Most guys run around 4-5" with 39.5-42's and they are coming close to the firewall. Sandman has the 52" front springs (about 4" lift) and I think a 0-rate which is about5" of lift and axle is 3.5" forward and he is close with 39.5's.
 
#4 ·
hey erik

was thinking if u remove the inner fenders then add some rubber floor mat or something like that and put it on your front grille and firewall.. that way nothing will splashes to your motor.. and u can have full flex all way to your outer fenders
 
#6 · (Edited)
Just removing my whole inner fenderwells? Well i live in the west coast, in Canada. I do not know if this is a viable option. My motor will get dirty and covered with mud sometimes, which is probably not good for it dont you think? Freak from alaskaoffroad.com seems to run his motor pretty open and exposed......

Also to fit 44 inch tires on this truck, (76 chevy fullsize), should I use 56" chev rear leafs instead, and this way I can move my axle forward 5.5 inches? Will it start to get too close to my grille/lights/rad etc? I dont mind moving the heater-core/fan off my firewall if this is going to help.

Thanks for your help. Ive done a lot of searching, i just want to hear someone say, yep that will work. :D
 
#7 ·
I tossed my inner fender years ago. Yep, my motor is dirty; nope, I don't care. Leave all the chrome shait off it and run the black valve covers, etc, and its not too noticable.

As far as modifying the heater/blower motor, I started out w/an early non-AC S-10 piece, and cut/spliced it to fit on the firewall. The motor in these turns the opposite way, so the bulge is on the top, not the bottom. Never did get it hooked up. If I were to do it again, I'd go w/an aftermarket heater (or another stock application) that mounts inside, and cut the firewall further back.

Pete
 
#8 ·
I just beat the inners back to the firewall and bolted them to the cab floor. I can't imagine why you'd want to run without inner fenders anywhere that you might find mud, but to each his own I guess.

I run 38.5s on 6" of lift with the front axle moved forward 1.5".
 
#9 ·
I've thought about building some type of rubber (or something) inner liners that I could snap into place if I decide to go hit a mud race. I have a brace bar for my front exo that I could use for a center support.

I do have 5" of lift total with 39.5" and I think I could fit 42" with a little work on the firewall. You will need to do some serious cutting to get everything to fit. I dont see a 44" tire fitting up into the stock fender wells very well. You will hit in the front as well. I also cut my radiator support all the way to the body mount. I did it to get ride of extra weight but I might have had to do it anyway.

I dont think I could fit 44"s. The firewall would have to go in a few inches (doable), but I'm not certain about the front grill area.

I'm all for big tires and low lift. I went from 10" of lift to 5" and its a whole new beast. Climbs better, more stable, and the drivelines stop becoming a big deal.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top