67-72 tire fitment - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum

1967K10 · 02-21-2005, 03:32 PM

What size of tires are you 67-72 guys running?, with how much lift? Will 38"x14.50"s fit with a 6" lift or is 8" needed? I would kinda like to see some pic's if anyone has any.

IROKGMC · 02-21-2005, 04:34 PM

6" will be fine, I run 6" with 39.5" IROKS. Just bust out the sawzall and start making them fit. I don't have pics right now but I am someone else will. 8" is way too big

1967K10 · 02-21-2005, 07:15 PM

I don't intend on using a sawzall.It is almost totally rebuilt. I want to start with a nice truck and have no problem wheeling it hard but I don't want to cut up new sheetmetal. I was just curious how far I could go without a saw and 5 1/2"-6" of lift. I am just thinking that 35"s are a little small.

trkklr77 · 02-21-2005, 09:03 PM

i have some of my buddies with 6-7 lift and 35" procomps. he can stuff the tire and there is not much room. give me some place to email them to and youll see how tight a fit they are.

IROKGMC · 02-22-2005, 09:07 AM

when my truck had a 4" with 35's i thought it looked too small and they stuffed fine. if you want 38's do the 8"

1967K10 · 02-22-2005, 09:15 AM

I currently have a 4" and 33"s.Looks kinda dumb. I have some 1 1/2"-2" shackels to give almost 6".I was afraid the 38"x14.50"s would be a little big.

florida4x4 · 02-22-2005, 06:18 PM

6" will get you on 38's but you'll chew up the tires when turning over rough stuff or flexing. To get the best fit you'll want to relocate the axles to the center of the wheelwells. Front needs to go forward 1-2" and the rear needs to go back about the same amount. Also you will have to radius the front of the rear wheel opening..

K5MONSTERCHEV · 02-22-2005, 06:31 PM

I know its prolly too big for your tastes, but heres mine on 38s, with 14" in the front, 12" in the back, ill level it one of these days, lol.

1967K10 · 02-22-2005, 07:35 PM

So some 37"x12.50" should work well with 6". I'd like to go bigger but I haven't gotten around to getting a nv4500/205 yet,kinda $$$.I currently have a 420/Rockwell.Very short front shaft. Don't want to build 2 sets of shafts.

Big Ol'Chevy · 02-23-2005, 08:39 PM

I had a 72 K20 with an 8" skyjacker lift on it, and ran 38.5x16x16.5 TSL's and the only thing I had to do was roll the point under on the front fenders about 1/2", that was the only place it would rub when I turned sharp both ways. I never had a problem with the truck even out 4 wheelin.

4x4Poet · 02-24-2005, 12:53 AM

With33up tires, the most often hit spot on the front is the lower front fender foward of the wheel, usually in a stuffed turn. IOW, the cup at the bottom. One can take the curve out of the inside of that inner cup plate (that completes the cup) to gain some clearance without altering the outer body lines. Trimming the very bottom point helps even more. I think extended bump stops can prevent much rubbing, as well, but that goes against the go-along-to-get-along-so-I-don't-get-flamed opinions of most Pirate members. I'd extend the bump stops about 1" for every 3" of lift, though suspension cycling should drive the amount they're extended.

Smash-K20 · 02-24-2005, 08:50 AM

Moving your front axle an inch or two forward will allow you to clear some bigger meats and give you a better front drive shaft angle. 9" of lift and my front axle moved 2" forward and I can clear 39.5"s at full stuff with no rubbing or fender trimming.

f0cker · 02-24-2005, 09:54 AM

I've got a '72 K5, 6" and 38"x14.5" Gumbo Monsters (

, they came on the truck ) and trimmed about 3/4" from the front bottom of the front fenders. To make it all look normal, before I cut, I drilled out the plug welds and removed the bolts so I could pull the inner fender away, then made my cuts with the sawzall, touched it up with the grinder, then took a BFH and bent the inner fender back to where it met up with the outer fender/wheelwell. It looks stock, but to clean it up even more it wouldn't be hard to weld the inner fender to the outer one along that seam, then grind the welds down flush and repaint it.

The rear tires rub a little bit at full stuff, but I think the BFH and a little bit of massaging with a grinder/sawzall will give me the extra ~1/2" I need in the rear. If you're set on running 38"s, you could always get a 6" lift, then use ORD's Zero-Rates to both move the axles to the middle of the wheel wells, and to get another inch of height.

1967K10 · 02-27-2005, 11:27 AM

No one has pic's of one with 37"s,huh? Would like to see how much room they have before I order them. If they don't have adequate room with 6" I will jus get 35"s. 35" seem small though.

trkklr77 · 02-27-2005, 10:12 PM

give me a email address and i show you how my buddies 35s fit with a 6" lift

02-21-2005, 03:32 PM	#1 (permalink)
1967K10 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2004 Member # 38212 Location: Nebraska Looking for D60's Posts: 1,332	67-72 tire fitment What size of tires are you 67-72 guys running?, with how much lift? Will 38"x14.50"s fit with a 6" lift or is 8" needed? I would kinda like to see some pic's if anyone has any.

02-21-2005, 04:34 PM	#2 (permalink)
IROKGMC Newbie Join Date: Nov 2004 Member # 37888 Location: Morgan Hill, CA Posts: 35	6" will be fine, I run 6" with 39.5" IROKS. Just bust out the sawzall and start making them fit. I don't have pics right now but I am someone else will. 8" is way too big __________________ 1970 GMC, d60, 14bff, Trail ready's, 39.5" IROKS, sm465, Doubler, TBI, PRP seats

02-22-2005, 09:07 AM	#5 (permalink)
IROKGMC Newbie Join Date: Nov 2004 Member # 37888 Location: Morgan Hill, CA Posts: 35	when my truck had a 4" with 35's i thought it looked too small and they stuffed fine. if you want 38's do the 8" __________________ 1970 GMC, d60, 14bff, Trail ready's, 39.5" IROKS, sm465, Doubler, TBI, PRP seats

02-22-2005, 06:18 PM	#7 (permalink)
florida4x4 Beaver Pleaser Join Date: Sep 2002 Member # 13645 Location: home of the wayward dirt bike Posts: 1,436 Blog Entries: 1	6" will get you on 38's but you'll chew up the tires when turning over rough stuff or flexing. To get the best fit you'll want to relocate the axles to the center of the wheelwells. Front needs to go forward 1-2" and the rear needs to go back about the same amount. Also you will have to radius the front of the rear wheel opening.. __________________ 1972 GMC Submarine 383 / TH350 / 203D-NP205 / D60 / 14FF / 42's on Stazworks / heavy foote / four eyez Inclined to brute force attack a 70* incline with a Quadrajet 1997 GMC K3500 Suburban TC76 L33 / 4L80E / HP60 SAS / PROJECT TOWHOE

02-22-2005, 06:31 PM	#8 (permalink)
K5MONSTERCHEV Registered User Join Date: Jul 2003 Member # 20909 Location: Castro Valley CA Posts: 368	I know its prolly too big for your tastes, but heres mine on 38s, with 14" in the front, 12" in the back, ill level it one of these days, lol. __________________ Memories of my Blazer:[URL=http://community.webshots.com/user/k5monsterchev] K5[/URL] 2001 Dodge Cummins HO

02-21-2005, 07:15 PM	#3 (permalink)
1967K10 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2004 Member # 38212 Location: Nebraska Looking for D60's Posts: 1,332	I don't intend on using a sawzall.It is almost totally rebuilt. I want to start with a nice truck and have no problem wheeling it hard but I don't want to cut up new sheetmetal. I was just curious how far I could go without a saw and 5 1/2"-6" of lift. I am just thinking that 35"s are a little small.

02-21-2005, 09:03 PM	#4 (permalink)
trkklr77 Banned Join Date: Apr 2004 Member # 29016 Location: galt ca, because i wanted my own backyard Posts: 15,354	i have some of my buddies with 6-7 lift and 35" procomps. he can stuff the tire and there is not much room. give me some place to email them to and youll see how tight a fit they are.

02-22-2005, 09:15 AM	#6 (permalink)
1967K10 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2004 Member # 38212 Location: Nebraska Looking for D60's Posts: 1,332	I currently have a 4" and 33"s.Looks kinda dumb. I have some 1 1/2"-2" shackels to give almost 6".I was afraid the 38"x14.50"s would be a little big.

02-22-2005, 07:35 PM	#9 (permalink)
1967K10 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2004 Member # 38212 Location: Nebraska Looking for D60's Posts: 1,332	So some 37"x12.50" should work well with 6". I'd like to go bigger but I haven't gotten around to getting a nv4500/205 yet,kinda $$$.I currently have a 420/Rockwell.Very short front shaft. Don't want to build 2 sets of shafts.

02-23-2005, 08:39 PM	#10 (permalink)
Big Ol'Chevy Registered User Join Date: Dec 2003 Member # 25665 Location: Nevada Posts: 436	I had a 72 K20 with an 8" skyjacker lift on it, and ran 38.5x16x16.5 TSL's and the only thing I had to do was roll the point under on the front fenders about 1/2", that was the only place it would rub when I turned sharp both ways. I never had a problem with the truck even out 4 wheelin. __________________ 1972 Chevy K20 pickup 14" All Susp. and 44's 1988 Chevy V30 Crewcab longbed 10" and 38's

02-24-2005, 12:53 AM	#11 (permalink)
4x4Poet Registered User Join Date: Aug 2004 Member # 34756 Posts: 1,464	With33up tires, the most often hit spot on the front is the lower front fender foward of the wheel, usually in a stuffed turn. IOW, the cup at the bottom. One can take the curve out of the inside of that inner cup plate (that completes the cup) to gain some clearance without altering the outer body lines. Trimming the very bottom point helps even more. I think extended bump stops can prevent much rubbing, as well, but that goes against the go-along-to-get-along-so-I-don't-get-flamed opinions of most Pirate members. I'd extend the bump stops about 1" for every 3" of lift, though suspension cycling should drive the amount they're extended. __________________ <>< Worthy is the Lamb that was slain to receive power, and riches, and wisdom, and strength, and honour, and glory, and blessing.

02-24-2005, 08:50 AM	#12 (permalink)
Smash-K20 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2004 Member # 26894 Location: arsehole of the world Posts: 373	Moving your front axle an inch or two forward will allow you to clear some bigger meats and give you a better front drive shaft angle. 9" of lift and my front axle moved 2" forward and I can clear 39.5"s at full stuff with no rubbing or fender trimming. __________________ Dale _____________________________________________ [QUOTE=Entropy]Please, Rip isn't big enough to make me mumble. I could sing the Star Spangled Banner without a skip sucking Rip's dick.[/QUOTE] Last edited by Smash-K20; 02-24-2005 at 08:52 AM.

02-24-2005, 09:54 AM	#13 (permalink)
f0cker Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Member # 15502 Location: hello darkness my old friend Posts: 2,401	I've got a '72 K5, 6" and 38"x14.5" Gumbo Monsters ( , they came on the truck ) and trimmed about 3/4" from the front bottom of the front fenders. To make it all look normal, before I cut, I drilled out the plug welds and removed the bolts so I could pull the inner fender away, then made my cuts with the sawzall, touched it up with the grinder, then took a BFH and bent the inner fender back to where it met up with the outer fender/wheelwell. It looks stock, but to clean it up even more it wouldn't be hard to weld the inner fender to the outer one along that seam, then grind the welds down flush and repaint it. The rear tires rub a little bit at full stuff, but I think the BFH and a little bit of massaging with a grinder/sawzall will give me the extra ~1/2" I need in the rear. If you're set on running 38"s, you could always get a 6" lift, then use ORD's Zero-Rates to both move the axles to the middle of the wheel wells, and to get another inch of height.

02-27-2005, 11:27 AM	#14 (permalink)
1967K10 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2004 Member # 38212 Location: Nebraska Looking for D60's Posts: 1,332	No one has pic's of one with 37"s,huh? Would like to see how much room they have before I order them. If they don't have adequate room with 6" I will jus get 35"s. 35" seem small though.

02-27-2005, 10:12 PM	#15 (permalink)
trkklr77 Banned Join Date: Apr 2004 Member # 29016 Location: galt ca, because i wanted my own backyard Posts: 15,354	give me a email address and i show you how my buddies 35s fit with a 6" lift

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