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#1 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2005
Member # 57173
Location: McAlester, OK
Posts: 302
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Well, my search for a cheap D60 has ended in failure. So, here is what I have aquired. This will be going in my 88 Jimmy.
3/4 ton Chevy suburban with 14ff and D44. Not sure on the Tcase. It has everything except the engine and tranny. Got the whole thing for $250. So in the next couple of weeks, I will start stripping it down and making an inventory of what i have. So, in light of this I have rethought my plans for my truck. I am now going to go with 16X35X16 boggers, instead of a larger tire I had originally wanted. I already have a 4" Rough country lift on the truck, but want to lose the blocks in place of the DIY shackle flip. In fornt I was wanting to use a longer spring and move the axle forward. Can I use the springs from the rear of the Burb for this? This will be my ongoing thread if anyone cares. Next questions.... If I put in a 241 Tcase with a clocking ring, do I need to add a body lift or cut out the floor to make it fit?? Has anyone ever used the square driveshafts on a daily driver and had them be successful. I only drive this to work and back and to wheel on the weekends. Work is only a half mile away. How bad will I tear up these tires if I use a full spool in the rear? If I do get a detroit for the rear do they hold up well? I plan on losing a lot of weight on this thing (fender cutting, etc) will this aid the D44 at all? One last thing on my mind. I originally wanted to dovetail the front and rear, but have changed my plans. Would it be possible to take off the front fenders, lower the hood down in the front for visibilty, and fab up some tube fenders. I know it is possible, but my main question is if I do tube it up in the front, I know I will have to get a smaller radiator or lower it into the frame. Do I need to attach the tubing to the body or the frame? If it is attached to the firewall, and then at the frame in the front, the body flex will start ripping stuff up will it not? Anyhow til next progress or next question, thanks. R.C. Last edited by OklaK5Guy; 01-20-2006 at 08:46 AM. |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2005
Member # 57804
Location: Langley, B.C.
Posts: 484
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square driveshafts are allmost impossible to get ballanced...i wouldnt ever run one in the rear....front it allright cause how often are you doing 20mph+ over boulders....
as for the d44 in the front, as long as your not locked i dont think you will have too many problems running 35's. Boggers like to grab and if you have exesive wheel speed and then they catch ur gona blow...keep in open or maybe a limited slip, but thats pushin it... are you planning on running this as your dd? if so spool in the rear will kill your boggers...id purchase some cheep 35x12.5 mud terrains or something for on the road, and then a quick switch with the impact gun and throw on your boggers for when you hit the trail, or the mall ![]() edit: that will probably have a 208c in it...maybe even the 241 allready...im not sure because i know in the pick-ups 88 was the first year of the 241, and the 208 was used till 87? Last edited by Stuckle; 01-20-2006 at 10:19 AM. |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2004
Member # 37553
Location: Flatlands of Kansas
Posts: 140
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Save your cash on the rear spool and just weld it. With the cash saved buy some chromo outers for the 44 and run at least Spicer 760 joints. While you have the front apart replacing the joints replace the balljoints with the best you can buy. Trust me, if the axle is used it will need it. This setup on the front holds up on my K5 with 36in TSL's fine (so far). Losing some weigh will help the 44 a little, but most of the vehicles weight is in the front (engine, etc). Burbs went to 241 tcases in 88 (so a buddy tells me). I've tried a square dshaft on the rear before and I did have a lot of vibrations, but for the front they work good.
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I find that immaturity trumphs professionalism anyday |
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#7 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2005
Member # 57173
Location: McAlester, OK
Posts: 302
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Quote:
Well, find me a price and lets do some dealing. We have some 60's around here, but I cant afford $800 right now. BTW, man do I miss Texas. used to live in San Antonio and Austin Last edited by OklaK5Guy; 01-22-2006 at 12:42 PM. |
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#8 (permalink) | |
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Member # 54549
Location: stae of confusion, Ky
Posts: 446
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My wife still doesn't know about Pirate4x4.SHHHHH! Sky high! |
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#11 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2005
Member # 57173
Location: McAlester, OK
Posts: 302
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Well, a new develpment may change my plan slightly. A guy I work with just bought 4 44" boggers, they are sitting on a pallet in his garage. He has some money problems and told me he would take $1000 for them. They havent ever been mounted. So I dont know if I can pass this up.
So answer me this. Will the 3/4 ton D44 hold up to the 44's just for driving to work and back (no wheeling), until I can find a D60? I have goosebumps on my arm just thinking of having 44's.
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#12 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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44" boggers with that t-case and front end..
good luck man you will need it!! Not to mention I did clear 42" tsl's on my 1991 blazer with trimming and 4" rough country's but those 44" boggers man those are just crazy BIG! Cool though....any how!
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#13 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2005
Member # 57173
Location: McAlester, OK
Posts: 302
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cool, like i said... Dont plan on doing much wheeling til I find a 60. But still got to make it to work and back. I am fabricating up a homemade body lift at work out of aircraft aluminum. My 4" Rough Coundtry plus 2 1/2" body lift, plus lots of fender hacking, should make a need looking truck with the 44's.
Will the 241 T case be ok with the 44's? |
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#14 (permalink) | |
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Join Date: Nov 2002
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Location: COLORADO
Posts: 1,715
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Quote:
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1986 K30 |
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#17 (permalink) | |
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_Differential 'Dozer
Join Date: Jul 2005
Member # 51113
Location: Princeton, IL
Posts: 585
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Quote:
Of course, with the 203, tons add up pretty fast...Not flaming you but honestly curious: how can you possibly prefer the 203 to the 205? Do you like the AWD? That's the only possible "advantage" I can see. Well, that and the 203's Hurst shifter... although they probably decided not to put their name on it for a reason...
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'76 K20, 400, NV4500, LoMax 205, 14b/Detroit/discs, D60, 4.56s '78 K30, 400, TH400, 203, 14b, D60, 4.10s '79 Cherokee, 360, T18, D20, W.T.D44s |
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#19 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
not to say that you can't make one, but they aren't factory for sure.
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:laughing: |
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#21 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2005
Member # 49411
Location: western ky
Posts: 31
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I am pretty sure that with 4" suspension and 2.5" of body you will probably still have to move your front axle foward to clear the firewall for 44" boggers.
Or beat the firewall back with a sledge. |
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#23 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2005
Member # 57173
Location: McAlester, OK
Posts: 302
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Quote:
I do plan on moving the axle as far forward as possible. 56" springs, and some zero rates? maybe? What ya think?? |
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#25 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2005
Member # 57173
Location: McAlester, OK
Posts: 302
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I would do that, but it just wouldnt be right. I couldnt look at myself in the mirror.
Think I may have him talked down to $900. The guy with the suburban told me he yanked out the Tcase too. Damn that sucks. He said it was a 205. So I guess I will have to find a 241 or a 205 somewhere else. |
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