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The dana 70 thread

536K views 739 replies 248 participants last post by  cj8scrambld 
#1 · (Edited)
Welcome to the 70 bible. I don't claim to be the be-all, end-all, expert on these, although I have learned quite a bit about them while assembling this. If you have good info to share, post it up. If you want to know what version of the 70 you have, read this and look for yourself.

I want to add more info about the Super 70 (the 70-1SU?) to this, if you have any or know where to find any good info, please share with the class.

Identification...

The 70 uses (basically) the same cover as a 60 (everyone knows how to spot a 60 right?). The bolt pattern is the same and for all practical purposes the covers are interchangeable. As far as I know the easiest way to tell a 70 from a 60 is the lip on the bottom of the pumpkin. Most stock 70 covers will cover all the way to the bottom of the 70 housing, but the mounting lip is about 1/2" wider than a 60. With a 60 cover on a 70, the thicker lip is very obvious, but with the stocker you may have to look closer.

There are a lot of different versions of the 70, for the most part the parts are pretty interchangeable between them. They came in trucks, vans, and industrial equipment in a wide variety of widths, with bolt patterns ranging from heavy duty 6 lug, the standard 8x6.5”, and up to 10 lug, and have several different spline counts available. Almost all of them are 8 lug, with 35 spline or 32 spline shafts.

The tubes are fatter than a 60, and thicker than a 14 bolt. My 70-B uses 3-9/16" tubes (a 60 front or rear is typically 3-1/8"). The 70-HD has 4" tubes. Tube thickness seems to be ½” on pretty much all of them. The tapered down sections are rolled smaller, so the wall gets thicker in these sections.

Here is a pic of a 70-B, showing both the lip on the bottom (that is a high pinion 60 cover on it), the lip on the top, and the taper down on the tubes (note that I cut the stock brake flanges off). The wider lips are not normally so obvious, because factory 70 covers have wider flanges, so look closely when your axle hunting.

The lip on the bottom can be shaved down for the same ground clearance as a 60. I reccomend using a saw to remove most of the material, then finishing it out with a grinder.



Here's a better view of the taper down...



Variations...

There are several versions of the 70:

*70 (.500" pinion offset, used from late 1950's to '71 according to dana) these would likely have the lower spline counts, least desirable
*70-B (.625" offset, '71-82) Probably the most common version. Generally 35 spline, but checking is the only sure way.
*70-U (.625" offset, '82+) There seems to be less of these than the 70-B. Known as the "Teardrop 70" because of it's smooth underside. Shares all bearings with the 60
*70-2U (unknown offset) same pinion and carrier bearings as U, but big wheel bearings.
*70-HD (.625" offset, '68+) These come in big trucks, lots of them out there but many in weird widths.
*70-3HD (.969" offset, '87+) Out of newer trucks, not a lot of low gears available for these ones.
*70-High Pinion (unkown offset, 2000ish+ Kodiak/Top Kick K4500/K5500 fronts) 10 lug high pinion 70, with 1550 joints (a 60 uses 1480) 5.13 gears are the only ones available for these axles.
*70-1SU (.625” offset) Super 70. Little info available, Dana lists only available ratios as 4.10 and 4.56. Teardrop housing and HD tubes and outers.

Often the variation will be cast into the housing, but not always, and in the case of the 3HD, it may be labeled as 2HD according to rocklobster87. The only way to know for sure is to check the BOM number. It is a 6 digit number, typically starting with a 6, stamped into the axle tube just to the right of the diff, when looking at the cover. Go to www2.dana.com and look it up to see what you’ve got.

The 70-U uses a smaller pinion bearing than any of the others (the same as a 60) All the others use the same inner pinion bearing. Carrier bearings and outer pinion bearing are the same as a 60. Wheel bearings vary, and can range from the same part numbers as 60’s and 14 bolts, to bigger.

The carrier bearings on the 70, 70-B and 70-U are all the same size (same bearings as a 60 carrier). The HD carrier is .125” narrower than the others, and can be use in the other 70’s with the addition of a 1/8” spacer. This leads me to assume that a normal 70 carrier won’t fit in a HD.

Because of the different pinion offsets available, it’s important to know exactly what you have when looking for gears and carriers.

If there are other ways to distinguish the variations with visual checks, post up what you know and pics if you can so we can make this as complete as possible.

Differences and similarities with the 60...

The std 70 uses some of the same bearings as the 60, the outer pinion bearing is the same one (splines and seals are also the same as a 60, so yokes are totally interchangeable), but the inner pinion bearing is significantly bigger. The carrier bearings are the same as a 60 also.

The inner wheel bearings are bigger than a 60, but the outers are the same. Here is a pic of a 4.10 pinion out of a 60 and one out of a 70. The bearing in front of each pinion is the inner wheel bearing. Which is the 60 and which is the 70 is pretty obvious.



Here's another view...



Shafts...

There are also different axle shaft spline counts available. The 35 spline is the most desirable (and I believe the most common too). Off the top of my head, here's the list, 16(?), 23, 30, 32 and 35 spline. Can anyone confirm these, I'm like 80% sure about those #'s.

Donor vehicles...

There are just about a million different applications that came with Dana 70 axles. There are too many to make a useful list. There are links to Dana's backdoor website below that list most of the applications. There is a ton of info in them, so make sure you're in a comfortable chair if you choose to navigate through them.

Misc info...

The ring gear diameter is 10.5"
The 35 spline versions are the same spline as the 35 spline 60’s and 9 inches we are all used to
The pinion nut requires a 1-5/16” thin wall socket, and should not be torqued beyond 300 lb/ft
The axle shaft flanges are typically larger than 14b and 60’s, and often use tapered cone washers on studs :smokin:
The oil capacity is about 3 quarts, Dana recommends 80w90 gear oil
The housing is ductile iron (a high quality type of cast iron)
The input torque rating is 7000 lb/ft max, 1750 lb/ft continuous for most (all?) versions from what I have gathered, the main differences are in the GVW rating.
Swapping SRW hubs on a DRW housing will make the axle effectively wider, not narrower.
Disk brake swaps are pretty much just as straightforward as they are on a 60. ¾ ton GM D44/10bolt front rotors, and the common 7-1/16” GM calipers.

Helpful Links

Dana BOM lookup page
Dana 70 Maintenance Guide
Dana 60/70 Powr-Lok LSD Service Manual
Dana Ring and Pinion Pattern guide
Dana shim kits
Ford application guide 1995-2005 (70 info p.34 to p.39)
Dodge application guide 1999-2001 (70 info p.40 to p.44)
Dana axle application/BOM guide 1979-1998 (all models, not just 70)
Dana axle application/BOM guide 1967-1978 (all models, not just 70)
Dana Light Axle General Information Guide, about a million applications and their BOMs (for all models, not just 70), from 1979-2005)


I'm planning on updating this post with anything you guys have to add, since it's missing more info than it has. It should make a pretty handy reference for all us 70 fans.

-Redd
 

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#59 ·
I have a Dana 70 front end, closed knuckle, drum brake, big six bolt pattern. It's been a while since I looked at the number on the axle tube, but I tried at one time to look it up in the Data database, and never found it listed.

I bought it to go in my 70 Chevy, I intended to just convert it to 8 lug and find a set of lock out hubs. However, now I'm thinking maybe I'll try to use the Dedenbear "C"s and knuckles made for Dana 60 axles, and use late model parts to get disc brakes, 8 lug pattern, and lock out hubs. Anyone tried this swap?
 
#65 ·
I have a Dana 70 front end, closed knuckle, drum brake, big six bolt pattern. It's been a while since I looked at the number on the axle tube, but I tried at one time to look it up in the Data database, and never found it listed.
Check the IH and Dodge data from Dana/Spicer, the IH 1600 truck 1 1/4 ton from 1967 to 1973 had the Dana 70 with 6.17 and the Powr-Lok. The big six bolt pattern is according to the truck size.

http://www2.dana.com/pdf/X510-8.PDF
page 200
 
#62 ·
Ok stupid ? here. Besides the extra load carrying ability what benefits will a front or rear 70 provide over a 35 spline full float 60. Keep in mind i'm not dishin the excellent fab work in this thread.
 
#63 ·
Main thing for me is the bigger r+p (10.5" vs 9 3/4"). 35 spline alloys/CTMs are stronger then the pinion on a 60.

In a rear application with a heavy vehicle, there is a tremendous amount of traction when climbing, and with out a weak spot like a hub or a u joint, the pinion will be the fuse.

I don't think a 60 is up to a high Hp, or heavy vehicle in a rear application.
 
#64 ·
Good points. I'm considering using one of the d 70's i have for the big block buggy i'm collecting parts for. one is from an 83 e 350 68wms b model,the other one is 64wms w/disc brakes. I dont think the disc's are a stock item though. I should probably look up the BOM'S. Good info in this thread.
 
#66 ·
Ok i've been trying to find info on one of the 70's i have. where are you guys finding the info for the BOM? The 70 i have has 3.5"tubes that do not neck down at all. It has a B cast into the top of the housing and a 2 piece pwr loc case w/4.10 gears. 68WMS. #s on the tube are 11-6-9b2 603934-8 is this the BOM? The little info i have to maybe help here is according to Dana the power loc is always a 2 piece case,trac loc can be a 1 or 2 piece case. The easiest way to tell the difference between the 2 if it's a 2 piece case is,the power loc's case were the cross shaft is has a U shape on 1 side and a V shape on the other. Trac loc has a semi circle on each side of the cross shaft.
 
#70 · (Edited)
OK, I'll paypal someone $0.70 if you can find BOM 605191 year looks to be 85 based on the date next to the BOM and the ring gear. Ive found 605192, 196 but not mine. It is a DRW, and has 70-18 cast into the front facing left side web, and a NC cast inside the Dana logo on the rear face of the right web. It is 4.56, 35 spline, open diff with 3.5" axle tubes.

Ring gear part # is 34842 and based on other info I found it can be 70HD (but doubtful) 70B, or 70-2U

I triple checked the BOM and have no doubt they are correct. So WTF diff is is:confused:?

I used the newer guide found here

The 9 is a bit faint but I tried 3, 6 and 8 and no luck



date
 
#76 ·
I will have to remeasure but when I had the guy hold it at the WMS it was 75"

It is a Chevy 70HD . He told me it had been in 3-4 trucks and he had no idea what it was in originally .
 
#81 ·


Thought I'd post up my 70-1SU. It's a very interesting axle... It came out of a D-700 dodge, and has a 70U center section, with 70HD everything else. Came stock with a 1410 yoke, 35 spline shafts, 5/8 wheel studs. Look for a bolt-on disc bracket to come out for the DRW dodge 70HDs fairly soon.
 
#82 ·
this is a great thread I have a 70-hd and I am getting ready to do the 14bff conversion to widen the rear wms to match the front on drw 60.
is there anyone interested in a set of 5:86 gears for a pre 75 70-hd? lcated near Seattle, wa
 
#87 ·
For the ones that have the weird 70s, like the 70U, 70-1SU, 70-3HD, 70HD, I believe that if its 35 spline, 1.5" shafts, they use the same traction aids. Someone correct me if I'm mistaken, but my 70-1SU uses the 35 spline stuff that the 70HD does. A note to all the DRW 70 owners who are wanting to go to disks - you might have to drill the rotors out to 11/16 to use the 5/8th wheel studs because of the 5/8th shoulder (but don't drill it out if you want to use spacers! - important - the closest 9/16th wheel stud is 1/32th smaller on the shoulder than the 70, so if you're going down to the smaller wheel studs to run a spacer (the nut from the larger wheel studs will not work inside the spacer), leave the rotors like they are). Also, if you get a weld-on disk bracket for a 3" axle tube, this should be the size of the tube where it necks down just before the drum brake backing flange. Converting the DRW 70 to disks is not really a big deal, because there's no cutting. Just put the bracket on the tube and weld it. If anyone has any questions on converting the DRW 70 (namely a Dodge 70), shoot me a PM about it or something.

Pimped out dodge DRW 70:
 
#89 ·
How about Timken part # for the bearings? Anyone have a cross reference from the Spicer p/n's?

If not I'll let you know what the ones for GM D70HD wheel bearings are when I pick them up. The Spicer #s are: inner 706179x & outter 706074x.
 
#90 ·
Which Timken part numbers you looking for? Carrier, pinion, wheel bearing, etc.
 
#91 ·
I'm going to pick up some wheel bearings this week, so for me just the wheel bearings.
Spicer #s are: inner 706179x & outter 706074x
But it would be handy if we had a cross between wheel, pinion, and carier on here, or a link to conversion chart. The link near the begining had a pdf w/ all the Spicer #s, but most on line places, and probably part stores too, list by the Timken #.
 
#93 ·
After what has been posted on here and some poking arount the net it looks like all the GM fullfloaters rears, D70 or FF14B, of this era used the same bearings. So, Timken P/N's- outer: SET38, inner: 382A (race) & 387AS (bearing). NOTE: These are the same bearings as the GM D60 front of the same era. The seals are different, though.
 
#94 ·
I was thinking that all GM use 14Bolt. Is there a model that always use 70, perhaps G van. The problem I have is there is 5 feets of snow down here. You can tell me to wait a month or so but I'm excited to start to work on my project. I already have a front 60 that is under 8 feets of snow so I need something to work at.
 
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