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84' 6.2l NA Diesel K5 "Buildup"

3K views 19 replies 5 participants last post by  Gonecheenin 
#1 · (Edited)
84' 6.2l NA Diesel K5 / KS-510 "Buildup"

Or maybe tear apart would be a better way of putting it :D

It currently has;
A very tight Auburn posi front diff with Yukon 4340 shafts in the front 3/4 ton 4.11 D44, a welded& shaved rear 4.11 14 bff with a single disc brake on the pass side, 700r4 trans, Np208 t-case


Lots more body & frame trimming to come in the future along with Full Hydro steering, some sort of cage/tubed front end, and a possible S-10 ext. cab or YJ body swap


Since the pics below I've torched off both ends of the frame as far as I could to improve approach/departure angle without moving the front springs or fuel tank, scrapped the hard top, torched then scrapped the heavy ass tailgate, and threw away most of the interior (rear seat, carpet, Etc....)


The truck when I bought it




the truck after a little sheetmetal editing and some 35x12.50-R16LT (E rated) Parnelli Jones Dirt Grips






Those are aired down 38" boggers on my Bluggy





I have yet to devolop the pics of the rear diff welding & shaving, or the most recent body editing but I'll post them up when I do.





******
 
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#2 ·
Offroad only Diesel engine cooling?

I want to increase the visibility from the drivers seat of my Blazer as cheaply, quickly, and effectively as possible (at least until the S-10 cab/ YJ body swap)


So question-


On my 6.2l diesel powered OFFROAD ONLY Blazer, I have a monstrous 4 core radiator that also has an oil cooler in it

to narrow the front end down this thing needs to go

At this moment it only has 1/2-1/3 of a shroud due to the body lift AND the clutch fan seems to be bad so it isn't exactly working the best as it is and it still keeps the engine consitently cooled down to around 185 degrees unless your standing on it then it heats up to around 200 (which may be when the clutch fan is kicking in)



I'm thinking of just using a 3 core 454 V-8 rad (I already have) inside my Bluggy's old pushbar setup with dual electric fans & simply looping the oil cooler lines to bypass the cooler (thought about getting an exterior cooler but this thing carrys oil pressure & uses 1/2 JIC lines so it wouldn't exactly be cheap to buy)



I mean the engine mostly just idles along through the woods with decent gearing (better crawl ratio then the bluggy with the 4:10 gears & a little smaller tires), why would this reduced cooling be an issue for what I now use this engine for?




BTW: if I get this to work fine I'll have very little on the front of the blazer to impede my view because I'll just huck the whole front clip & weld a grill gaurd into place with some "cage" tubing to connect it to the tub
 
#3 · (Edited)
"Fixing" a worn out 14bff Gov=Lok - pt 1

Muahahahahahahahahahhahahaha :twisted:

(BTW: This of course is actually about welding a 14b bolt Gov-Lok diff solid for trail use)

The Bee-lazer lighter & trimmed up a bit for the trail



Hey, wheres the diff?



Oh there it is






Hmm, got smoked Gov-Lok















Stuff I no longer needed removed from the way of the welding rods

 
#4 · (Edited)
"Fixing" a worn out 14bff Gov-Lok - pt 2

In this next part, I already know I can't weld for crap so I don't want to hear it :flipoff2:



Bought Half done, I mig'd the teeth edges together & arc'd the corners with 1/8" 6011's then filled it all in with 1/8" 6013's

Think thats hot?









Done till it cools then onto grinding & fitting



 
#5 ·
got it all reinstalled & it works perfectly!

(no pics of the install since you all seen the good portion of the mods & everything else was simply a little fitment grinding & putting a diif back in like normal)

True rear traction kicks ass! :D

I also installed the EMS diff ring & cut off the bottom of the diff for a smooth housing which eliminated the very bottom bolt at the same time, but with the 1/4" thikc diff ring the cover seems to have sealed even with that bolt missing without any issues!!

I still have to do a little fine tuning with the grinder & build some diff cover protection off of the ring (which will help strenghen' the trimmed ring as well as protecting the cover from hits by rocks), but all in all it worked Sweeeeet (last night we were out & the diff never felt like it even hit anything!)



 
#6 ·
Pics of the Blazer edited for pure trail use beyond even the previous owners trimming














Far from rock buggy flex, but not bad for a purely stock suspension










And of course the good sticker





BTW: I don't see the Blazer body &/or diesel lasting very long due to its size & weight

I'll be getting with a buddy of mine soon to swap on to this chassis a 90 S-10 ext cab (tube front & rear ends though) and a 4.3 in place of the diesel (I love the diesel but its just not light enough)
 
#10 · (Edited)
Yeah my intent was to have that mod completed already since I already have everything I need rounded up to do it

But it just didn't happen by the time of the above pics




The theory with the single disc brake is that since I have a welded diff if I apply braking to just one wheel both are gonna be stopped by default since the are locked together solid just like a quad is for instance

and the disc brakes are so much more efficient then drums that I'm sure a single front braking assembly will be more then enough to provide braking power for the entire rear axle


and the why of course is to simply keep weight down as far as absolutely possible without sacrificing capability or function
 
#12 · (Edited)
The evolution continues = KS-510

I seem to have a KS-510 on my hands :D

Cab trucks kickass!
Muahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha!

Yep, I was tired of the fullsize body already (I'm sure everyone is VERY surprised )

But that there Bee-Lazer had a purty sweet drivetrain in her
Soooooooooooooo;

b4xs, a couple awesome friends of his, and I gots to hackin' & stackin'

(pics are kinda dark since we were workin' late, I'll get better pics of the current form tomorrow)

90' S-10 donor

(Direct link http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v83/BlackListWheelers/Gonecheenin/Dissil Bee-lazer/KS-510/ )






















Fawk, Here we go again
 
#14 · (Edited)
Wether the diesel is gonna stay is unknown at this point since its so big & I don't want to move the cab back much more if at all (everything is REAL tight around the injection lines)

worse come to worse I have a much lighter TBI 4.3 for in it :D

I need to mount the cab yet (factory mounting locations are amazingly close, but I'm still gonna do new high clearance mounts), hook up all my controls, and mount the rad behind said cab

Theres of course gonna be some tube work added later
Then the t-case clocked (hopefully with the DD 231 doubler), 3/4 elliptical swapped, thinking Rubicon Express 2.5" Extreme duty YJ front springs (better approach angle), full hydro steering, Etc.....



And Yes, I still have to do the single rear brake setup :flipoff2:
 
#17 ·
Must be my Canuckian sense of humor.

The series of pictures showing the gov-spool being built - a very righteous, *******, cobble-ass creation (read huge compliment). Followed up by your closing remark. *SNORT* :laughing:
 
#19 ·
Whelp theres no way around it without getting retarded :laughing:

the diesel has to go :evil:

Even with the cab offset about 2"s to far to the drivers side, the steering column is tight up agianst the rear most injection line :eek:


The only way to make that engine work in this project would be to move the cab back another 3-6"s or seriously modify the firewall (kinda takes the ease outta using a ready to go cab right there) and to be honest I don't want the diesel in there all that bad to be doing any of that (makes my decision easy though since I kinda wanted a lighter engine anyway but the diesel & etc was already in there so I figured if it would work why not)

We also found during the cab swap what looked like bleeding ATF on top of the rear of the tranny case indicating a possible crack, plus the tranny didn't stay in first gear under throttle like my Bluggy's tranny anyway (governor was over riding shifter selection), theres a cracked mounting ear on the 208's front output portion bracing rod mounting area, and I want the t-case clocked up anyway which the bluggy already has (the bluggy even has an unfinished flat crossmember under it that'll be ready to go with a couple bolts)

Soooooooo...........

I'm gonna drag the bluggy in later this week & rip the driveline outta it to swap into the 510 (engine, tranny, clocked t-case, & all )

Once I got that all bolted in then I'll set the cab back on & mount it down tight, then look at the suspension & fuel tank (thinking 6-8 leave YJ packs up front & rearching the bluggys 3/4 elliptical for the rear to get some more height outta it and mounting my old 8 gal Keg with external p5001 pump to power the TBI)


I am keeping the Hydro boost from the K-5 though if at all possible (that setup is smaller, more powerfull, and just plain SWEEET! :smokin: )
 
#20 · (Edited)
Whelp hydro boost went with the Diesel setup

but I'd think the Vac boost will still work fine (and its already on there)

All emptied out, ready for some rust protectant, & the new driveline (Which I've made up my mind will include the DD 231 doubler in between the 700r4 and the NP208 for a low low of 89.3:1 :evil: )
then on to easy stuff like cab mounting :D



 
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