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Another chevy build

410K views 1K replies 205 participants last post by  cda 
#1 · (Edited)
This is gonna start off more of an evolution thread being my truck is about done. A little back ground on how it got to where it is now.


this is about what it looked like when I got it a few years back.


fastforward thru a couple transformations and tire sizes.


always changing


the best it looked when still street legal, didnt have a digital camera back then so pics were few.


I skipped posting a lot of the mods I did to this point because they were all the normal chevy things, big bumpers, rock sliders, body lifts and normal junk like that. At this point the truck was still 1/2 ton 4" lift, 3" body lift. 38" tires.

The turning point that got me in the direction I am at now would be the tube bed. I got tired of smashing in the fender sides so I built this. It was actually 1 1/4" schedule 40 poop pipe, but worked great. Low budget was the only way I could afford to wheel.


I ran around with that bed all the way up till this year. At this point it was still a daily driver I used to get to work. Shortly after I also built an inside cage out of the same poop pipe. No pics of of that, I will have to dig thru old piles of photos.

I pulled the rock sliders for more ground clearance and before I knew about boat siding a cab I just cut the rockers off and welded some square tubing at the door opening, also cut the rusted corners out and reinforced the corners. These work good, actually still running the cab like that, simple but effective.



Never being able to leave anything alone I decide to tube the front end with the intent of leaving it street legal, I didnt own a tow rig or trailer so I didnt have any choice. So out of more poop pipe I run the cage thru the front firewall and built a pipe core support. That only lasted until I went to put sheet metal on, cause the first thing I did was narrow the front end. So a tow rig was now in order. Anyway fast forward again thru some more boring tech this is where I was at.


some beadlocks and the best upgrade I had done, a Dana 60 14bolt combo.


more to come.
 
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#2 · (Edited)
I had broken so many d44 shafts in one year I think I had the spindle threads worn out.

I finally came across a good deal on a doubler from NWFAB. I searched on here how to triple stick it and made up some linkages.



Next upgrade was the front axle, I had a small amount of money saved up. I searched for good deals on axles, lockers, etc. I ordered some 35spline Yukon chromoly shafts. Got a great deal on them. This was before I heard about the trouble they had with their 44 shafts. So far they are still working great. I knew I wanted a selectable front locker. It was a toss up between ARB and OX. I had an ARB with the old setup in the rear so I already had the compressor but my neighbor had an OX in the front of his EB and had nothing but praise for it. I found 4wheel parts having a sale and had a 10% off on top of that so I went with OX. It ended up being about the same as the ARB in price. Only problem was it took 5 months to get, that was another story. At around the same time I looked into getting CTMs but was quickly running out of money, I found an ad with OX joints on sale, emailed 4wheel parts and had them beat the price by another 10% so OX joints were purchased.

I took the stripped down D60 axle to a local NAPA and had it hot tanked. It was nice working with clean new parts. I rebuilt the knuckles at the same time so everything but the ring and pinion is new.

Here is the OX install. I went to drop in the ox and it didnt fit, what the hell.


I had to grind the vent tube splash shield off so it would clear. It had to clear the shift fork as well.



Next was to put together the new shafts and OX joints. Of course nothing just goes together.

The OX torn apart for install.


The yukon shafts had some real course machine marks inside the ears, the OX joints wouldnt slide in.



Hand filed the macine marks down.


After that the next issue was lack of steering, the ujoint hit the axle.


more to come
 
#3 · (Edited)
Had to grind out quite a bit for full steering. here is a pic of where I had to grind, I'll look around for the after pics, I pretty much took all the corners off.


Next problem was I couldnt get the inner cage in the ujoint without grinding more axle.


Finally all together you can see the difference between the axle I worked over and the axle still needing done.


It did look purdy, should have painted them.


I ran out of money and couldnt afford new 35 spline hubs so I ordered a set of drive flanges from Mt. Logan(sp) from the vendor section here for a great price.

Also put on a crossover steering set up I got from Leadfoot (nick) I think it was someones attempt at a homemade kit but it works so I am still running it. He swapped it out right before he went to TTC.

I then put disc brakes on the rear. Nothing special you have probably seen hundreds of them done on here.

I ran that way for a while then had to cut into it again.

I did a shackle flip in the rear with some proto types from Blackwidow.



Later came a ladder bar on a shackle setup.



Then 52" front springs ( I am really skipping a bunch of stuff here to get to more recent updates)


they did pretty good, flexed farther than my shocks. I know people talk shit about rti ramps and all but they are awesome for checking your rig after mods. Everytime I do something new to the truck first thing I do is hit the ramp and look for driveline bind or tire rubbin. I could careless about the numbers but its a great tool.
 
#4 · (Edited)
I think I am up to with in the last year now. It seams after every mod I did I wheeled it once then tore it apart and did something else. Cause right after the front spring swap I decided to link the rear. With out a clue of how I wanted it to end up except a couple ideas I tore into it again. At least by this point we were in a house and had a shop. But still very limited on funds due to the move.

I started stripping down the rear suspension with the plan of using the current bed on it. I was gonna just put bronco coils and links and call it good and get coilovers later down the road when I had the extra money.




With no idea about the 4 link calc that I found later I just picked good spots on the frame and measured out some links. At first I started to use sch80 pipe for links and welded them with an idea similar to prerunner links but definetly not as strong.



I put alot of work into them and stood back to look at it and imediatly was unhappy with them. They were way to long. I had 1 1/4 heims at both ends and the link just flopped around. So I cut off the hangers and ditched the lower links(they are in the steel rack and would probly make good traction bars for a long bed). I decided to just go straight links using 1/4" wall DOM. Much cleaner looking IMO. Easy to carry a spare as well.

Here you can see the new link and mount and the old one in the background. The new mounts are from KORE and saved alot of time not having to make any. they look to be stout too.


Pic of the upper link. Still think I need another piece in there where the center piece ends?


rear axle gusset.


Also tied into the front pinion bearing cover. It is 2 piece so I could remove the pinion bearing if needed.


At this point the truck started to take a sharp turn into another direction. The plan of coils and such got changed. A family member happened to win a large jackpot while in Tahoe and was gracious enough to kick me about $5000 to finish up getting big parts I would normally not get. So air shocks were bought.
2.5" Fox shocks 14" travel. Thinking maybe I should have got 16"? only time will tell.
 
#5 ·
Thanks for doing a build up thread. I saw you truck on the TTC hopefull thread and loved it. My evolution mirrors yours, except I haven't gotten to the rear of my truck yet.
Subscribed.
 
#6 · (Edited)
With no idea where the shocks would need mounted or how much charge was in them I spot welded some temp mounts and installed the shocks so It could be rolled around.


I also ordered up a set of 44" boggers and the other big purchase I would never have afforded is my Stazwork beadlocks.

the dinning room smelled like tires for 2 months while waiting for the wheels




At this point we had our credit cards paid off and a damn great start on getting this truck where it needs to be.

I did the unthinkable and charged up another card to get me a bender and some DOM so I could ditch the poop pipe cage and bed. also boxed in the frame.


When I built the cage I wanted to skin out the cab and get the cage as high as possible but I ended up leaving the cab whole and tucking the cage as high as I could. Only problem was my rear bars had to pass thru the back glass. So I cut out some panels from old freightliner cab extensions and drilled holes in them for the tubes. the hole are close enough to the edges I can remove the panels without cutting the cage. I though about putting in plexy glass but I am starting to think I will leave the aluminum for head protection on the off chance we break a strap pulling on someone.










 
#7 · (Edited)
dual battery mounts










I didnt plan on running rear fenders but I had them and they were already cut. plus it makes it look more like a truck.


You can see the vw sandrail fuel tank mounted to the cab, it is a temerary solution until I get the propane tanks in.



Still dont have the shocks dialed in. They are set where ever they were when I bought them. I didnt want to mess with them until I am done putting the propane tanks and mounts in the rear.

2 weeks ago I upgraded to a th400. First tranny I rebuilt myself. So far it drives around the house ok. I'll give it a good test at Sandlake on new years.

I welded in a drain and a skid plate on the pan whike I was at it. The pan was beat up a lil anyways.





On my 3rd gen tcase mount now.



I think I will add another mount on bottom at a later date. There is also a mount on top of the 203 that ties into the roll cage. The cab still has body mounts but is also tied into the frame with tubing so it is rigid. I need to just ditch the body mounts all together.
 
#8 · (Edited)
Then last upgrade just for kicks was a $98 backup camera from walmart.





And its first run on the new set up.



Should have more pics after our next run on new years.



edit*
Alsmost forgot to post the specs.
1975
350ci(looking for another 454, waisted the old one)
th400
203/205 nwfab doubler
1350&1410 yokes
D60 ox locker, yukon shafts, drive flanges, rocklogic hydro assist
14bolt welded and linked, disc brake
2.5" fox air shocks
front has 52" springs
stazworks beadlocks
44" boggers
8k warn
dove tail front and rear.

to be installed in the near future
full hydro-done
454ci-done
propane-done
 
#10 ·
The frame is now boxed all the way to the rear shackles on the front springs. When I put the big block back in this spring I will box in the front.

It has definetly been a long road to where it is now but wouldnt have it any other way, I learned alot building this truck.
 
#13 · (Edited)
By far my favorite chevy on the board. You have my vote for TCC. Well I have a question about your air shocks. I have an 84 1 ton, shortened about two feet off the back, do you wish you would have gone with a coilover? I want to link mine and obviously air shocks is a little more buget friendly. Also are they 2.0 or 2.5s?

Also wheelbase in current form if you dont mind?
 
#14 ·
By far my favorite chevy on the board. You have my vote for TCC. Well I have a question about your air shocks. I have an 84 1 ton, shortened about two feet off the back, do you wish you would have gone with a coilover? I want to link mine and obviously air shocks is a little more buget friendly. Also are they 2.0 or 2.5s?

The rear of the truck is so light I dont really know if coilovers would have been better. It may need a sway bar later back there cause I do get some roll when turning and accelerating but I havent adjusted on the shocks yet they have the charge/oil that was in them when I bought them. They are 2.5 fox shocks. I think if I link the front I would defenitly coilover the front.
 
#16 ·
the wheel base is between 118-119"

The lower links are 53"
uppers are 56"

Its not the best set up when looking at the numbers but it works pretty good. I think the uppers could have been shorter and been ok. The only thing I really gained with the longer uppers is the rear pinion always points at the tcase when full droop or bump.

I left the section of frame cause I thought it would be stronger than welding tube to a cut off section of frame at the back of the cab.
 
#19 ·
Holy hell brother! That is one of the more wicked builds I have seen on a Chevy in a while...definitely impressed.
So you are currently running 52" springs in the front right now?
Cause your flex is pretty decent to say the least.

that is in the works for me, my fronts springs are the whatever lift springs the previous owner put on the truck, and are a sad, sad 46/47 inches long. My shackle angle is basically straight up and down. Which is complete BS.
But I am gonna take the 52" that are in the rear out and swap them up front when I put my 63"s in the rear.

But good work, keep the pics coming....:beer:
 
#21 ·
Thanks guys...

Yes the 52" springs are still in the front. I wanted to link it but I keep tearing into the truck and never get to wheel any more. So I am gonna leave the springs until I get more wheeling in.

I am still using the stock location for the front shackles. I just kinda centered the spring under the rig and bolted up the shackles then welded the front mounts on. The axle stayed pretty much in the stock location. I installed about 1" longer shackles plus the front mount was lowered a little. I pulled the overload spring out of the pack as well. When I stepped back and looked at it I dont think I got the 4" of lift I always heard you get from 52s. Maybe if they were new? Plus it had some bad axle wrap without the overloads. So I pulled the 2 shortest leafs out of my old lift springs and installed them into the pack. That fixed the axle wrap but still sat a bit low. I got a set of zero rates or add a leafs, whatever ya wanna call em. They were 1" blocks that bolt to your pack. At that time I went ahead and used the off set hole in the block to move the axle forward 1". I'm not sure how much lift I actually ended up with maybe between 4"-6"? Being a cheap ass I should have put new longer shocks on it but instead I just relocated the shock mount on the axle. at full bump the shocks are bottomed out and bump stops are smashed in good. Full droop the shock are actually my limiting straps.
 
#25 ·
wow!very cool build,I couldn't beleive my eyes when i read your posts & saw the pictures.we damn neer built twins.i read about rear links & thought damn,if he did air shocks they would realy be similar & then next picture-great minds think alike :grinpimp:

btw im down to 80psi on shox & had same prob w/no overload,thought about frt traction bar but probably wiat for frt 4link
 
#26 ·
I actually dont even know what pressure are in mine yet. I know if I back up the ramp I will lift a tire before fully compressing the shock. Still have about 3" of shaft showing. I know with the rear being light I cant just go by backing up on the ramp cause when I get it crossed up in the front it will compress' the rear more. I've ran it hard across the sand and didnt feel it bottom out either. It seams to work good, I think I just got lucky.
I need more seat time with this set up before fine tuning it and of course air bumps would be a nice add on later.
 
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