Cam shaft sensor. having a hard time pulling it out

[rfrey]

It is on a 97 Diesel Suburban. It seems to be hitting the power steering pump. (what a crappy design). Anyway does a guy just loosen up the pump...or do I have to take it completely off?

[mmk5blazr]

6.5 turbo-cam sensor is in pump,must be crank sensor in l/f of front cover?
if so its fairly easy to drop pump out of way

[rfrey]

Ok, crank sensor...I think you are right. So, just un bolt the pump...sounds easy enough.

[93_Burrito]

Just curious as to why you're removing the crankshaft position sensor. Did you get a check engine light for it?


Andy

[rfrey]

Very rarely, but it does happen...the vehicle will shut off at idle...usually when driving and stopping at a light or stop sign. It takes a minute of turning the engine over, then it starts up again. I thought this might be caused by they fuel pump or a clogged filter...but the filter is new, and the pump is a job I don't really want to do. I spoke with a few people (the local GM dealer...and my employee who just replaced his on his Ford that was doing the same thing). I guess the sensor is bad and causes this problem...so I am replacing it.
Does this sound right?

Once it is fixed, I will try and drive it around for a week...and then report back. It will be hard to tell since it doesn't happen very often. I am looking to sell the Suburban...we just never drive it, and I would love to put the money into my kitchen remodel.

[93_Burrito]

Ford recently issued a recall which covered faulty crankshaft position sensors in their diesel engines... However, I don't think that is your problem and that's a costly item to throw money at.

Check your battery connections and grounds. I know it sounds dumb, but you need to cover the basics. When you're satisfied with this, there are 2 common issues to 6.5L's that you need to address:

1. Proper lift pump operation

The electronic fuel injection pump (Stanadyne DS4), in the valley of your engine, needs help getting fuel from the tank, so a lift pump is employed for that purpose. The lift pump draws the fuel and sends it forward to the IP at low pressure, then the IP sends the fuel to each injector at high pressure.

An OEM (AC Delco) lift pump that fails will fail open, so fuel will continue to flow through and the engine will run. Ultimately this adds strain on the IP and will shorten the IP's lifespan. Also, the lift pump may be good, but a faulty oil pressure switch can cause the lift pump to become inoperative.

The lift pump may also be referred to as an inline fuel pump, and is located inside the driver's side framerail just behind your driver's door. Properly diagnosing it's functionality is pretty easy, and a replacement lift pump or oil pressure switch is relatively cheap. The oil pressure switch is at the back of the engine block on the driver's side, near the glow plug controller.


2. Fuel solenoid driver (FSD) is failing

Your symptoms really sounds like the FSD is failing. This is also known as a pump-mounted driver (PMD). It's a black box located on the side of the fuel injection pump. Over time, these units fail due to repeated heat-soaking. The best way to correct this problem is by remote-mounting the FSD to a cooler location. Several vendors, such as Heath Diesel or Kennedy Diesel, offer kits which contain a mount and wiring harness to get the FSD to a cooler location.

I don't know how many miles are on your truck, but if it's less than 120k, your IP is technically covered by a GM special policy for 11 yrs/120k miles. If your IP goes bad, or even if the FSD goes bad, GM is supposed to provide you with a new IP at no charge...

I HIGHLY suggest you visit TheDieselPage.com or DieselPlace.com for in-depth trouble-shooting and help. Joining those boards is free, and in the end, if you still want to sell that Suburban, there are plenty of people in those audiences who may be interested in your rig. You will learn at those sites that the best 6.5L mechanic is YOU, with lots of online friends to help out.


Andy

[93_Burrito]

Just thought about it some more... there's a real easy way to test that your lift pump works.

On the top of your fuel filter is a bleeder valve. Crack that open. Turn the key to the 'on' position. At this point, the PCM commands the glow plugs on and the lift pump pressurizes. With the fuel filter valve open, you should see a steady stream of fuel exit via the valve. If not, the lift pump is not working.

I imagine you probably did this when the fuel filter was last changed, to prime the new filter.


Andy