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#1 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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Mounting shocks to a cross member
I need to move my shocks on my 4x4. The wheel base has been shortened and there is now a uchannel bent type cross member that the shock fits perfectly in. The bottom of the 5125 would then me mounted to a bracket on top of the axle. They would then be angled and a lot like http://diy4x.com/images/Rear%20upper%20shkmnt.jpg from diy4x, but my mounts would be on top of the axle instead of on the back as it would create a weird angle angle and wouldn't be properly vert. I have a photo but getting it off my phone is a PIA so if anyone knows what I'm talking about that'd be awesome.
As opposed to welding on the axle housing I might be able to find a pip clamp instead. Not quite as strong but if something brakes I'd prefer it be a 4 dolar clamp and not my housing. Oh also there is a huge home made cross member in the rear after this. Thanks guys! Last edited by mrarmyant; 09-25-2008 at 05:35 PM. |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2005
Member # 51243
Location: Tropical Paradise
Posts: 3,410
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Dude....
![]() Weld the shocks tabs onto the axle. Pipe clamps bring the HGness and don't look cool. Seriously, though...why?
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[COLOR="Lime"][B]1999 Chevy K3500, 5.7/4L80E/14FF/stock/stock/stock[/B][/COLOR] |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Devout Newbie Hater
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I see a lot of shocks angled quite a bit, and I wonder why people do it.
A shock can best control the actions of an axle when at an angle as close to perpendicular as possible. when the shock is set at a 45* angle inboard, it cuts the effectiveness and usefulness of the shock in half. I understand that packaging the shock can be a major concern. if you have huge lift, and want huge flex, youre gonna need huge lengths of shock. Not stiff shocks, but long ones, mounted properly to maximize the efficiency of the shock. Getting a long shock mounted to provide maximum efficiency is difficult to package. Now, if you chose shocks with super stiff valving, i could see leaning them a bit to reduce the stiff part of the ride, but too much is a waste... these things you will learn when you get them mounted. sadly, you will have mounted them, and will have a difficult time figuring out whether or not they are mounted to your liking without welding mounts down. a shock leaning at more than 30* is pretty much useless. you might as well run a monocoil.
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sympathy, empathy and apathy... i dont know which one is which.... But i know you can find sympathy between shit and syphilis in the dictionary. Win this car for a whole BUCK! |
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#5 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
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#6 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2005
Member # 51243
Location: Tropical Paradise
Posts: 3,410
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Call up Dan at Ruffstuffspecialties. He has a pretty decent selection of weld on shock tabs, just bought a set for my rear axle, uppers and lowers, shipped to Hawaii for $37
__________________
[COLOR="Lime"][B]1999 Chevy K3500, 5.7/4L80E/14FF/stock/stock/stock[/B][/COLOR] |
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#8 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2002
Member # 15404
Location: Hillsboro, OR
Posts: 3,080
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Quote:
My rear shock angle is VERY bad. But when I had as set on the outside of the frame they were limiting travel, getting rubbed by the tire and crushing the bodies aginst the frame; all at the same time. I had no choice but to move them inside the frame... and unfortunatly the fuel tank is right above the rear axle so they are leaned over realy bad until I can totaly cut off the back and re-do it. Honestly it doesn't bother me much....
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Life begins where the pavement ends! |
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