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Old 10-26-2008, 07:56 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Jeep Cherokee On Chevy Frame?

I know that the cherokee body is a unibody, but they are so cheap, and so common, so light compared to a full size say blazer, and parts are readily available. I need a body for my project and am getting anxious. With the jeep it could be a Cheveepillac (chevy frame and drivetrain, caddy motor, jeep body)

How hard do you all think it would be to mount the unibody to it without it looking link theres a 1 foot body lift or something gay like that?

Has anyone done this?

Also this might be in the wrong thread. I'm not sure where I'm supposed to be

Last edited by mrarmyant; 10-26-2008 at 07:58 AM.
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Old 10-26-2008, 08:41 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Thought provoking post.

Im not sure even where to begin.

Im also not sure this is in the wrong spot... lol.

I thought i saw one on here a while back, the guy got no end of hell for it, but it was here.
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Old 10-26-2008, 08:48 AM   #3 (permalink)
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not really sure how hard it would be to do, but i've always thought it would be a good idea, just never seen anyone actually do a good job on it, most like you said look like they have a 1 foot body lift.


id say give it a go, never no until you try

also, might want to go post in the cherokee forum, they could give you some good ideas as well.

edit: I think the best way to do it would be to build your own frame that blends with the shape of the unibody, so the gap is only about an inch or two the whole way.

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Old 10-26-2008, 08:49 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Well I found an 87 s10 blazer body, my wb is 1008 inches tho, the blazers is 100.5, but since it doesn't have rear doors i can cut out huge sections, and since I have 39.5 irocks with what will be some decent axle travel I'll need all the trimming I can get. So blazer or Jeep...

Right now asking for 91 cherokee 550 - but I think I could get it for 400 (thin is I think it actually runs and I hate to tear it apart. I'll off road it in the river and kill it first, then it will be worthy of the swap )

Or an 87 s10 blazer with no motor for 300. Should be able to get him down some for that too, and ill just haul the frame and axles off to the scrap.

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Old 10-26-2008, 08:51 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepmike887 View Post
not really sure how hard it would be to do, but i've always thought it would be a good idea, just never seen anyone actually do a good job on it, most like you said look like they have a 1 foot body lift.


id say give it a go, never no until you try

also, might want to go post in the cherokee forum, they could give you some good ideas as well.
I tried posting there. Someone said nope wrong forum delete it there. so i did.
:-/

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Old 10-26-2008, 09:04 AM   #6 (permalink)
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the s10 body is possible. seen that many times
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Old 10-26-2008, 09:08 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Where are you at? I have a nice cherokee body (full roller project) That I would let go for $150
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Old 10-26-2008, 09:10 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Norman, OK. I've seen an s10 truck swapped, some girl did it, looked incredible. Never an s10 blazer though. The radiator on this truck was originally in the bed. Don't think it will fit where the motor goes. Hmm.
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Old 10-26-2008, 09:33 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Ive seen XJ's placed on K5 frames, Bronco frames, and even one set on a Suburaban Frame and they all look like shit. Reason why, you answered yourself. It looks like its got about a 10" bodly lift.

Honestly, I dont think theres a SOLID way to do this and get the results desired. The XJ doesnt have one single piece of metal thicker than 11 guage on the entire body including the frame or lack there of so your already weak. You cant cut the exsiting frame rails off or the entire jeep becomes a wet noodle. You could section out the unibody and attempt to try and tuck the frame inside the xj frame rails but then again your weakining the XJ a TON and you'll have to modify your frame of choice to fit the xj lines. Then theres the engine compartment, and buy the time you cut those rails off, the ENITRE vehicle will become 16Guage or smaller, and will inevitably fold like a taco, unless you add a ton of reinforcements. And that could mean a lot of weight.

Lookin at an XJ or any unibodied rig, is not the way I would go. Theres simply just too much modification to accomplish anything worth trying.

Yes I do beleive there is a way to do it and make it look and perform great, however 99% of off-roaders will never look this way. Good luck.
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Old 10-26-2008, 09:40 AM   #10 (permalink)
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my wb is 1008 inches tho,
Wow thats a hell of a wheel base


Anyway check out what some of the guys do when they drop 3+3 bodys on long and shortbed frames. They channel the back and build a custom crossmember mount to bring the rear of the body down so it sits level.
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Old 10-26-2008, 09:50 AM   #11 (permalink)
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There is a local guy that has done this. He started with a 1-ton Chev and put a Cherokee on it. I will try and find some pics and post them later. It has the same paintjob as the car in my avatar.
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Old 10-26-2008, 10:41 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Right now asking for 91 cherokee 550 - but I think I could get it for 400 (thin is I think it actually runs and I hate to tear it apart. I'll off road it in the river and kill it first, then it will be worthy of the swap

This and a twelve pack sounds like the funnest.
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Old 10-26-2008, 10:46 AM   #13 (permalink)
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has anyone thought to look at older GM frames, say, 72 and earlier? the frame rails are reasonably flat under the cab on those. Not saying its the best idea, but its an option. Personally, you couldnt give me a cherokee if it had a 5lb box of $100 dollar bills in it, because I would only want the money, and I would have to enter the cherokee to get it. Not that Im a brand purist, but I dont trust the design.
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Old 10-26-2008, 12:11 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Don't Do it!!!

you won't be happy with the final result...Cherokee's are junk IMO

you're better off doing an s10 body swap or something like that,,

I did that and it turned out ok,,,


But it Would have been Way easier just to put the chevy drive train into
a jeep Yj....(and have it look like something)

just my 2cents

Last edited by mudmandan; 10-26-2008 at 09:35 PM.
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Old 10-26-2008, 03:22 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Other than that you could get a deal on it, what is the draw to the Cherokee body versus an S-Blazer? I would venture to say the S-Blazer is as common, and most likely MORE common than a Cherokee. It is also a swap that has been done 192818217271 times. Being that the Blazer was originall body-on-chassis I think it makes it a much more viable swap. You can cut out body mounts and rework them without much worry about strength. If you start sectioning the unibody you might have some REAL issues. If you don't section it I don't think there is a way you're going to get around the 10 inch body lift look. It's just some food for thought. I'm pretty sure Grumpy didn't pay much of anything for his various S-10 parts on his...er...truggy thing. Beg, Borrow, and Steel, right?
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Old 10-26-2008, 04:26 PM   #16 (permalink)
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i have 85 bucks into a windshield... one of the boys got rambunctious when cleaning out the cab with my sledgehammer, and the handle grip slid off allowing the hammer head and handle to exit the middle of the windshield...

the rest was free, as far as body parts.

with an s10 cab, you need to either keep it a single cab, or cut the floor for the framerails behind the seats, as full size frames kick up a bit. mudmandan can tell you why. I didnt want the cab tilting forward on mine, so i used a standard cab and built a cage into it to support the s10 body.
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Old 10-26-2008, 05:57 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
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mudmandan can tell you why.
Thank you for the name. I was specifically thinking of that conversion. I'm sure it was a ton of work, but it looks great and has to be extremely functional.
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Old 10-26-2008, 06:42 PM   #18 (permalink)
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get either of them and spend the remainder on DOM and a bender...and go to down
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Old 10-26-2008, 08:04 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Just seemed like the xj had more parts for exterior/interior and off roading.

I supposed I'll go the s10 route but I still want to total this jeep for 450... Would like to see what it can take YJ would have been nice had they not been so danged expensive.

I wish I had it as a truck form, but I always am offroading with about 3 other people with me, plus cargo (off roading isn't always the destination). Thought about an s10 ext cab, but those are hard to find, and the cargo seats are a joke. And a crew cab is like finding a needle in a haystack, much less actually finding one wrecked and cheap.

Oh yeah sorry its like a 108 wheelbase

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Old 10-26-2008, 09:23 PM   #20 (permalink)
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with an s10 cab, you need to either keep it a single cab, or cut the floor for the framerails behind the seats, as full size frames kick up a bit. mudmandan can tell you why. I didnt want the cab tilting forward on mine, so i used a standard cab and built a cage into it to support the s10 body.
Doing the extended cab i did have to make some compermises because
of that reason,,,ie the front is 1/2inch tilted forward.
I wanted a newer style cab 98 or so but this one was free so
you can't beat that,,


If i build my dream s10 i would start from scratch Ie;ditch the stock frame.

but like i said jeeps (real jeeps tj/yj/cj,willies) are a Way easier platform to start with IMO...

Or you could just use a full sized cab,,they don't look to bad

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Old 10-26-2008, 09:43 PM   #21 (permalink)
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I need to put my hood back on before the rain hits...
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Old 10-26-2008, 10:14 PM   #22 (permalink)
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sounds like your gonna go with the s10 route but i think it would be pretty sweet if you took your time with the xj and did it i was considering it with my build but im a bow tie guy plus ya gotta love that first gen body on the blazer so that what i went with you could just make your own body mounts and channel the body of the xj around the frame like perterson's did with there jk
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keep us updated on your build
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Old 10-27-2008, 06:01 AM   #23 (permalink)
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I'm thinking about getting http://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/cto/894087236.html, he might do 500, exterior and interior are oddly pretty much perfect, then sell the frame of to some rat rodder. Anyone have any photos of trimming rthe rear fender with the door like that?
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Old 10-27-2008, 06:49 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Now I am also reading how much stronger s frames are than full size. Well damn that means I gotta move a lot of crap? Also will a cad 500 even fit in the frame of an s10? here a pic of what I have so far on my frame, (minus the cad 500) th400, np208, d60, 14b, 39.5 boggers, HUGE travel bilsteins, 4 ford shock towers.
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Old 10-27-2008, 07:16 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Hmm


"9G.1 Cadillac 500ci V8 General notes

Todd (tallen_77346) offers this advice:
"I'm the guy that WAS doing this swap. The engine physically fits. Here is what you have to do to make it happen:

1. Forget about power brakes. It won't work with the factory booster. Aftermarket may work.
2. Custom headers are required unless you use the factory manifolds. Big Block Chevy H-Body headers will NOT work. Yes, new flanges will allow them to bolt to the 500, but the ports exit to far forward causing the back tubes to go through the upper A-Arm!!
3. Forget power steering, the 500 hits the long steering gear box. For the manual gear box, the lower, right, bolt hole flange on the block must be ground off to clear (viewed from the front).
4. Forget factory A/C. The factory heater only cars have a cover that will fit with minor clearancing!
5. Motor Mounts: Custom mounts are not very hard if you have a welder. Use steel bolted to the front of the engine to attached to brackets on top of the frame rail (similar to the Hooker small-block mounts).
6. As with all big-block Chevy H-body swaps, you must install a new steering shaft that has an extra U-joint and a carrier bearing (this snakes the shaft farther out than stock to fit the big block).
7. 472/500 Caddys are about 1 1/2" wider than a big block chevy and about 2 inches longer (measured from Water pump studs to the back of the engine). You must notch the sheet metal near the bottom of the radiator to allow room for the crank pulley.
8. The stock Monza V-8 radiator still fits with about 1/4"-1/2" clearance!! A pusher style electric fan setup mounted on the outside of the radiator will be necessary. An aftermarket radiator will probably be necessary to cool this beast!!
9. The firewall near the steering column will need to be clearanced slightly to keep the driver's side head from rubbing.

As you can see, there is a bunch of work necessary to make this work. The 500 is cheaper to build than a big block chevy up until the 450-500 horsepower level, however, the custom headers alone are EXPENSIVE. Stock manifolds (ported) would be much better (as far as money goes). This is the very reason why I decided to use a Big-Block Chevy after all. The 500 (with an aluminum intake) actually weighs about the same as an iron Small Block Chevy (this allows you to use the stock V-8 springs). "


Granted, I'd be doing SAS so a arm and headers don't matter (i paid 350 bucks for headers I'm damn sure using them)

With the stock frame it's supposedly stronger, def. lighter, has all the lines running, is newer, nothing on the blazer body has to be moved, and it wouldn't have that awkward body lift look, VIN's would match frame to body, no weird moving of stuff (so maybe heater works, don't know why I'd rather mess with something thats going 4800 rpms but am scared to death of AC's and heaters... )

The bad, lots of work, not sure how tranny and motor would fit, have to do SAS, have to cut the hell out of everything for shocks, not sure how the drive shaft length at the current state would work with tranny and all. Oh steering. What a bitch that's going to be. I guess if I build it right it should only have to go straight?

Using the current 3/4 ton frame, lots of fab work to get body on, and uh, weaker, and uh awkward lift thing. And brake cylinders and stuff and things.

Anyone do this near norman? I'm gonna need some help!
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