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Old 01-30-2009, 05:07 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Headers vs starter

I think my headers keeled my starter (85/K5/V8/5.7/4WD/Auto). I plan to replace the starter tonight and put a heat shield on the solenoid and then place a heat sheet wrap around both of them. Will this be enough? I don't want to keep replacing it over and over in vain. What all have you done with a header set up when it comes to your starters/solenoid set ups to avoid the heat issue? I've heard about placing a remote Ford set up in there, but is it worth it? Thanks.
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Old 01-30-2009, 06:21 PM   #2 (permalink)
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im switchin to manifolds...........tired of this issue..........or get ceramic coated headers
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Old 01-30-2009, 06:23 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Heat shield is a major plus when it comes to the solenoid. And yes, the ford set-up is the way to go. I have done it to all my trucks and it makes a big difference. I also run a 2 ga. batt cable down to the starter. It also removes the smaller wires----which most of the time on a chevy contain the fusible links and keeps them from coming apart.
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Old 01-30-2009, 06:30 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Remote Ford Solenoid and ceramic headers - haven't had a problem and my headers are VERY close to the starter on this 502 BBC in a narrow frame Willys PU.

Originally tried the header wrap - that was a big mistake - steamed and stunk everytime I started up from mud & oil on it and the headers disintigrated inside the wrap from excess heat.
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Old 01-30-2009, 06:37 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Heat shield is a major plus when it comes to the solenoid. And yes, the ford set-up is the way to go. I have done it to all my trucks and it makes a big difference. I also run a 2 ga. batt cable down to the starter. It also removes the smaller wires----which most of the time on a chevy contain the fusible links and keeps them from coming apart.
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Old 01-30-2009, 09:06 PM   #6 (permalink)
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heat sheild is a must in my experience
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Old 01-30-2009, 09:21 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I am running a cheap heat shield from the "Help!" section at the auto parts store. It has worked fine for me.

My headers also have custom baked on organic heat resistant coating (aka baked on mud) that seems to work well.
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Old 01-30-2009, 09:40 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I have this same problem, i cooked three stock starters for 350s and one gear reduction powermaster starter that i had the sel. turned away from the headers but still cooked. then a guy at my work sugested i get a starter for a 454, it was bigger then the stock 350 starter but bolted right up, been in the truck now for a little over a year and a half and have had no problems. just make sure you make a bracket for the back of the starter to the block or you mite break the block.
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Old 01-30-2009, 09:53 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Heat shield is a major plus when it comes to the solenoid.
I put on one of those when I installed it tonight. I bought some of that heat shield wrap for the starter, but the way it bolts up, not sure I can get it on there, but we'll see.

I don't have coated headers. They are the CARB legal ones from Edelbrock, because I had to play the smog game when purchasing them.

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My headers also have custom baked on organic heat resistant coating (aka baked on mud) that seems to work well.
Like that time at Hollister?
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Old 01-30-2009, 10:10 PM   #10 (permalink)
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...Like that time at Hollister?
That was a good start. They just keep getting a thicker coating each time I play
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Old 01-30-2009, 10:16 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Wouldn't the Ford solinoid setup simply make the vehicle that much easier to hotwire and steal as in gone in 60 seconds?
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Old 01-30-2009, 10:59 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Wouldn't the Ford solinoid setup simply make the vehicle that much easier to hotwire and steal as in gone in 60 seconds?

It could, but only if you have a Hollywood electrical steering column lock, right? It is pretty handy for bumping the engine over during tune ups and maintenance too.
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Old 01-30-2009, 11:32 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Had the same issue on my Blazer. I tried the metal that shield that bolted to the starter covering the body and solenoid. Didn't work well for me. It actually cooked the solenoid faster. Never tried the insulated blanket thingamabob.
I ended up installing a remote solenoid and and that seemed to be a longer term fix. Similar to what this guy did. http://www.oldengine.org/unfaq/solenoid.htm

Painless sells a kit as well.
http://www.painlessperformance.com/M...nstruction.pdf
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Old 01-31-2009, 05:54 AM   #14 (permalink)
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I have ceramic coated headers and a starter heat shield in the WTF-J. (6.0L) and it's working fine. Starting is never an issue.

Good luck.
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Old 01-31-2009, 07:08 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Wouldn't the Ford solinoid setup simply make the vehicle that much easier to hotwire and steal as in gone in 60 seconds?
No they would never bother even looking under the hood. Just break your ignition switch and drive off
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Old 01-31-2009, 07:09 AM   #16 (permalink)
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im switchin to manifolds...........tired of this issue..........or get ceramic coated headers
I did that years ago and no more problems....
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Old 01-31-2009, 10:27 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Take the time to go the Ford route, and you'll never regret it. I've got stock manifolds in a tight engine compartment. The heat buildup would reduce the voltage and woudn't start when hot. Ford solenoid fixed it forever!
GM even used the Ford type solenoid on some BBC's in the 60's. This should tell you which one is the best!
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Old 01-31-2009, 10:35 AM   #18 (permalink)
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i have run Chevy engines in all of my stuff.. all with headers. All with stock starters.

I have never had to run a ford solenoid or a cheesy heat shield

Instead, i bought the best solenoid the parts store offered, cost me about 30 bucks for it. then i put a 1 guage or larger wire (currently i am using a welding lead as a starter wire, its more than a 1/2" of wire, before the insulation and it has soldered ends.

I have never had a problem while running large wire. I had 2 solenoids go bad, and that was before i put the good one on it. I run in mud, possibly the toughest on a starter.

you dont need a bunch of fancy crap. just buy the good solenoid and a good battery cable, and ground the engine properly.
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Old 02-06-2009, 08:11 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Here's a good one. When the starter crapped out on my 93 last summer I redid the wires, using 2 gauge starter wire and I ran a new 12 gauge wire from the starter to the fender and back so at some point it would be real easy to install a Ford type solenoid. Yesterday I gassed up and when I went to leave I turned the ignition switch and nothing happened. I used the wire I installed to activate the solenoid directly from the battery and was out of there. Whew. I was blocking 4 sets of pumps because I was pulling my carhauler too. Stupid ignition switch has worked fine about 20 times since then, and yes I made sure it was in park when it wouldn't crank. Next best thing to a seperate solenoid anyway.
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