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Old 09-17-2001, 06:51 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Angry Auto tranny problems????

Hay guy's
My roomate and I are fixing up his brothers new truck....to him anyway!
Here's the deal:
'80 3/4ton 4wheel-dr. chevy reg-cab silverado
has a 350 with an auto tranny.

We are rebuilding the motor from the ground up. Now the transmition has some problems, were not sure of. I think the truck had been sitting for a while, and when we would drive it, it would take a while to pickup and go once on the gas. When we got it, it had very little trany fluid. I coulden't tell if there were any leaks, or if the torque converter is shot. So my question is, I'm not sure exactly what tranny it is and if it's worth having it rebuilt?
Do you guys have any guidelines to follow to trouble shoot this kind of problem?????


<IMG SRC="smilies/beer.gif" border="0"> Thanks for any imput... <IMG SRC="smilies/beer.gif" border="0">
-jerry-
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Old 09-17-2001, 07:41 PM   #2 (permalink)
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It is most likely a turbo 350. If it was low on fluid when you were driving it that would explain why it was taking time to engage from a stop. As to whether it is good to rebuild I would say yes but to make sure pull the pan and make sure no hard parts are lying in it.
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Old 09-17-2001, 08:03 PM   #3 (permalink)
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thanks, I think we're going to get the motor finished and put back in, then we'll work the tranny... Is there any seals on the tranny we should put in, while the motor is out?
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Old 09-18-2001, 05:00 AM   #4 (permalink)
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the front pump seal that is right behind the torque converter(about the size of an axle uotput seal)
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Old 09-18-2001, 11:39 AM   #5 (permalink)
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before you replace the front pump seal make sure to pull the pan and get a good look at the stuff in it. if you find nothing but fluid, you should be ok. buy yourself a new filter and gasket (preferably a paper type gasket and not cork) and a front seal. should ba able to pick that stuff up at a local trans shop for $20.
also, make sure that the torque converter is all the way in the trans when you drop the motor back in or you'll grenade the pump and damage the converter when you fire the engine up.
any questions; e-mail me.
good luck. <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce2.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce2.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce2.gif" border="0">
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Old 09-18-2001, 07:18 PM   #6 (permalink)
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thanks, I didn't think of that. As for the torque converter, how would I tell if it's placed properly, besides having the the bell housing line up flush with the block?

We ran into some other options/problems:
It needs a new cam/lifters/rods- we were looking towards low-end power, is there any sugestions???

again, thanks a bunch <IMG SRC="smilies/beer.gif" border="0">
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Old 09-18-2001, 08:23 PM   #7 (permalink)
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torque converter: to make sure the converter is installed all the way you should take the converter and push it into the trans, don't force it and it will go to a certain point and stop. lightly hold onto the pilot stub on the converter (at the engine side) with your left hand and spin the converter with your right hand. you'll feel it go in one more step and stop. spin it again and it will go in one more step and bottom out. sometimes you'll have to spin it a few times to get it to go all the way in. when it's all the way in you won't be able to push your fingers between the converter and the front lip of the trans pan/case. hope this makes sense.
one more way to check it is to bolt the trans to the engine. with 2 bellhousing bolts in take a look at the converter. there should be about 1/4 inch to 3/8 inch clearance between the converter and the flexplate (flywheel). if not, pull the trans back out and try putting the converter back in.
sounds more complicated than it is.
for your engine questions; you should always try to match all the components. that means, figure out what you want the truck to do and how much power you really need. if you want it just a bit more powerful than stock, go with a RV cam, mild compression (9-9.5:1) and a mild intake like an edelbrock performer. there is absolutely no sense in going with a big cam and a mild manifold as they will not work well together.
also: the more power you produce the hotter the engine will run, use more fuel and not last as long.
talk to the guy doing the machine work on the engine; if he's a good guy he'll steer you the right way. don't let anybody sell you on something you don't need!!!
good luck, georg <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce2.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce2.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce2.gif" border="0">
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Old 09-19-2001, 02:35 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Thanks, I took a look at the converter, and it makes sence. As far as the truck goes, I think my roomate(Nick) wants reilablity more then anything. It's his bros. first truck and with that in mind, the less future problems the better if you know what I mean... So mabie sticking with the stock stuff may be the way to go...
Realy apercieate the help...

-jerry-

[ 09-19-2001: Message edited by: 89YotaRunner ]
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Old 09-19-2001, 11:01 AM   #9 (permalink)
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You can buy all the parts including a rebuilt converter to rebuild that tranny for about $150. It's not hard to Rebuild the TH350's. That truck should have a TH350c The "c" is the designation for the lock up torq converter. I think "C" will be cast into the side of the tranny. First year it was offered was 80. You should also have the hard to find NP205 for the TH350. It will be a slip yoke version but you can take the fixed yoke parts off a older 205 and make it fixed yoke. Recomended if you wheel places that you likly to wipe out a rear drive shaft.
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Old 09-19-2001, 09:10 PM   #10 (permalink)
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the easiest way to find out if you've got a th350-c is to look on the driver side of the trans right behind the shift linkage. if there is a connector with 2 wires then it's a lock-up. no connector or wires, no lockup.
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