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Old 04-07-2009, 09:00 AM   #26 (permalink)
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I gotta ask, why didn't you put the 32 spline in put out of your case into a dodge 208. already fixed yoke and shorter than what you have now?? Not criticizing or anything, just wondering?
I spent half a day underneath Dodge trucks at the u pull and pay. I spent an hour pulling the skid plate, exhaust, etc.. to get to it, finally got it out and when I tilited it over it sounded like it had marbles inside it flopping around. At that point I decided that I knew I already had a good 208 at the house and just stayed with it. Also, I didn't realize I was going to have to totally disassemble the Chevy 208. I figure I could just drill a hole in the shaft and go. I would recommend to anyone that wants the fastest solution to put a torch to it with the shaft still in the case and drill it out by hand. Lesson learned.

Would I do it differently if I was to do it all over? Yep.
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Old 04-07-2009, 09:04 AM   #27 (permalink)
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one more issue. I have headers and the front driveshaft is going to hit the header collector, so I will be replacing it with a shorty. ugghh
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Old 04-07-2009, 06:31 PM   #28 (permalink)
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All I have to say about this is......






Very Nice!!

I appreciate you taking the time to document everything you went through in detail. This should be a sticky & is definitely going into my little folder of "tips & tricks" write-ups.

Bravo!!

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Old 04-07-2009, 08:39 PM   #29 (permalink)
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thanks, I hope it helps someone down the road.


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Old 04-08-2009, 06:43 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 86k30 View Post
I gotta ask, why didn't you put the 32 spline in put out of your case into a dodge 208. already fixed yoke and shorter than what you have now?? Not criticizing or anything, just wondering?
Can't do that. The clocking bolt pattern on the Dodge is different than the Chevy and it won't match the adapter. The only way is to merge the Dodge main shaft with all the internals of the Chevy. You have to then modify the Dodge tail cone as its mounting holes do not line up with the Chevy case. You cannot use the Dodge rear half because the shift rod bungs are in different locations than the Chevy. Here's my hybrid 208 that I built...



Nice Jeep. Glad everything worked out for you.
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Old 04-08-2009, 10:04 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Nice Jeep. Glad everything worked out for you.
It's not a Jeep
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Old 04-09-2009, 09:20 PM   #32 (permalink)
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UPDATE: There is no rear seal on a SM465 that is mated to an adapter to a NP 208 transfer case. I spent a lot of time in my garage and finally money to take it to a shop after I couldn't get to the seal, lol. The adapter area is not a dry bay as I had thought. I was sure it was since when I pulled the transfer case off there was just a small puddle of oil in there. I didn't believe the auto shop I took it to, so I confirmed it with the Chevrolet service department as well as a transmission specialty shop. Lesson learned- call around first and ask the dumb questions.

So when you bolt the transfer case back on, make sure your gasket between the adapter and the transfer case is good. The clocking ring has a bunch of holes that don't give a lot of mating surface area, but if you do it right, it won't leak.
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Old 04-11-2009, 10:06 PM   #33 (permalink)
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It's not a Jeep
My bad....sami
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Old 04-14-2009, 08:42 PM   #34 (permalink)
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UPDATE: There is no rear seal on a SM465 that is mated to an adapter to a NP 208 transfer case. I spent a lot of time in my garage and finally money to take it to a shop after I couldn't get to the seal, lol. The adapter area is not a dry bay as I had thought. I was sure it was since when I pulled the transfer case off there was just a small puddle of oil in there. I didn't believe the auto shop I took it to, so I confirmed it with the Chevrolet service department as well as a transmission specialty shop. Lesson learned- call around first and ask the dumb questions.

So when you bolt the transfer case back on, make sure your gasket between the adapter and the transfer case is good. The clocking ring has a bunch of holes that don't give a lot of mating surface area, but if you do it right, it won't leak.
Ok then so I've got a dumb question for you... how do you fill the adapter? And what fluid does the adapter have in it- gear oil or atf?
thanks
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Old 04-15-2009, 04:30 AM   #35 (permalink)
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Ok then so I've got a dumb question for you... how do you fill the adapter? And what fluid does the adapter have in it- gear oil or atf?
thanks
There is a bearing around the shaft on the rear of the transmission that spins and that it is what fills the adapter with gear oil. There is a seal on the front of the transfer case which holds the ATF in the transfer case. What makes absolutely no sense is that there is no channel between the two at the bottom so when I drain the transmission, the oil in the adapter won't drain. I wonder if the mechanics just didn't know what they were saying and there is some way to keep the adpater a dry bay. If anybody knows the answer to this speak up!
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Old 04-15-2009, 06:02 PM   #36 (permalink)
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There is a bearing around the shaft on the rear of the transmission that spins and that it is what fills the adapter with gear oil. There is a seal on the front of the transfer case which holds the ATF in the transfer case. What makes absolutely no sense is that there is no channel between the two at the bottom so when I drain the transmission, the oil in the adapter won't drain. I wonder if the mechanics just didn't know what they were saying and there is some way to keep the adpater a dry bay. If anybody knows the answer to this speak up!
I'd like to know as well. I'm swapping in a sm465 208 combo and I don't see how in the hell that entire adapter gets filled up if it truly is meant to have fluid. You think there'd have to be a filler hole seeing as that adapter could hold like 2 liters of fluid easy. Let me know if you found out-thanks man.

Another question how much fluid is supposed to get into the adapter through the bearing? Just what leaks or should I expect to have to add more oil to the tranny?
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Old 12-12-2009, 07:33 AM   #37 (permalink)
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Thumbs up Kickass!

I think I speak for a lot of people when I say this.
This is by far, one of the most usefull threads I have seen on the subject. Great Job!

I will be doing a simular operation soon, and this thread is now part of my "tool kit". I have it bookmarked for reference. I really appreciate you documenting this operation in detail.

Oh, and that is one BADASS Machine you have there!
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Old 12-12-2009, 04:44 PM   #38 (permalink)
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thanks.
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Old 06-06-2010, 04:30 AM   #39 (permalink)
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quick update. My np 208 has been popping if I put some heavy torque on it in 4 low. Now I know why. WHen I dissasembled mine, I carried it to a machine shop to have them drill through the hardened steel. Apparently I had left the brass synchro and keys on it. When it came back, they were gone. Since I had not taken them off, I didn't have them in my layout diagram, I didn't realize they were missing. See thread below.

/forum/chevy/893384-help-quick-please-np208-reassembly-synchro-ring-key-specific.html
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Old 06-06-2010, 08:12 AM   #40 (permalink)
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The synchro keys are not for low range, they are only for the mode fork (4wd in either low or high). Most likely cause is the low range shift fork damaged, bent, or the fork pads are chewed up. The synchro allows shift on the fly with auto hubs. In a wheeling rig it is not even needed and could be left out.
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Old 06-06-2010, 12:53 PM   #41 (permalink)
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The synchro keys are not for low range, they are only for the mode fork (4wd in either low or high). Most likely cause is the low range shift fork damaged, bent, or the fork pads are chewed up. The synchro allows shift on the fly with auto hubs. In a wheeling rig it is not even needed and could be left out.
Interesting, I'm the originator of the other thread. I have a Dana 60 and 14-bolt installed now, but the blazer did come with auto-hubs.
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Old 06-06-2010, 02:00 PM   #42 (permalink)
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The synchro keys are not for low range, they are only for the mode fork (4wd in either low or high). Most likely cause is the low range shift fork damaged, bent, or the fork pads are chewed up. The synchro allows shift on the fly with auto hubs. In a wheeling rig it is not even needed and could be left out.

hmm, I wonder if the popping is coming from my diff loading up and releasing with a tire spin. There is a lot of slop in my dif. It probably has about 45 degrees of play.
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Old 06-06-2010, 11:45 PM   #43 (permalink)
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well crap. That output shaft is a bitch to drill through. In fact the machine shop wants to charge $200 to drill and tap it if I have to get them to do it. I think I can lop off the end of the output shaft and get past the hardened section.

Does anyone know how much I need to take off of the shaft to get past the hardened section so I can drill and tap it?

Note: I thought about welding the flange on instead of using a bolt, I don't have a torch or anyway to preheat/post heat the hardened shaft, so that is not an option for me.
map gas. hotter than propane. hottest/easy thing i know of that isnt oxy acet, and its easy to get.
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Old 08-22-2011, 06:31 AM   #44 (permalink)
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I know this thread is a little old, but wanted to answer a question which was posted by the OP as to getting the adapter off of the SM465 granny tranny. The answer ... there is no trick. Take the eight bolts out which go through the adapter to the transmission and the adapter pops off. I hope you have drained your tranny before doing this or you will have a large Valdez sized oil slick on your garage floor. As you stated, this is a wet area ... there is no seal. There is, however, a gasket between the adapter and the tranny. The easiest way to replace the gasket is to make one yourself. You can get one from Novak or some other places, but shipping on just it alone is outrageous. If you are wondering how I know, I just did two (count them: two) transmissions in my son's 86 GMC 3/4T. I now have two extra SM465 transmissions (which both need some work) and two good used NP208 t/c's. Oh believe me when I say I'm good at replacing them now Great fun.
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