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#1 (permalink) |
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www.patparts.com
Join Date: May 2001
Member # 4821
Location: Gulf Breeze, FL
Posts: 8,685
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I'm want to make my own cross over steering arms for my d60 front. I have a drill press to place the holes with and a machine shop friend who is going to cut the metal, all I need to know is how to make that taper at the top of the steering arm bolt holes. Do I need to buy some sort of reamer bit? If so, what degree and size?
J. J.
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#2 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2001
Member # 6726
Location: United Socialist States of America
Posts: 3,552
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A good quality ream that size will probably set you back not much less than just buying a made arm. www.offroaddesign.com can probably help you out with a arm.
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[COLOR="Black"]Did you expect to find something deep and meaningful here?[/COLOR] "He has all the virtues I dislike and none of the vices I admire." -- Winston Churchill |
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#3 (permalink) |
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www.patparts.com
Join Date: May 2001
Member # 4821
Location: Gulf Breeze, FL
Posts: 8,685
|
Do you know what size I am talking about? It's not big at all. I'm looking through the Grainger catalog right now and reamers range from $2 - $112, depending on size and use. But even for $112, it's still cheaper than buying the arms! And I don't need a Snap-On-quality reamer, just something that will do 8 holes. If it lasts any more, maybe I can even make some money doing it. My buddy at the machine shop, I'm sure, has them, but I'm feel bad asking him for so many favors. I also don't want to borrow his reamer and break it.
J. J.
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#4 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2000
Member # 39
Location: San Martin, CA
Posts: 3,266
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I forgot what the exact specs are, but the D60 steering arms use the same taper as lug nuts. So if you can find a lug nut and measure the taper, you can use that. I know Ant from SRC uses lug nuts on all of his D60 steering arms.
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Eric Parts for Sale --> D44 shafts, 6 lug rims, air tank |
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#6 (permalink) | |
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www.patparts.com
Join Date: May 2001
Member # 4821
Location: Gulf Breeze, FL
Posts: 8,685
|
Quote:
J. J.
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#12 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2000
Member # 39
Location: San Martin, CA
Posts: 3,266
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If you are talking about the tie rod taper hole, you need to match it to the tie rod end that you want to use. GM normally uses 1.5" per foot for the taper.
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Eric Parts for Sale --> D44 shafts, 6 lug rims, air tank |
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#14 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2000
Member # 39
Location: San Martin, CA
Posts: 3,266
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Oh my, you guys are confusing. <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0"> In my first post (number 4 on this thread)I was talking about steering arm to knuckle bolts (use lug nuts and the lug nut taper). Then someone (MJ) said you may be talking about tie rod tapers. So I posted again saying what the tie rod tapers were.
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Eric Parts for Sale --> D44 shafts, 6 lug rims, air tank |
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#18 (permalink) |
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www.patparts.com
Join Date: May 2001
Member # 4821
Location: Gulf Breeze, FL
Posts: 8,685
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Yeah, after talking to alot of people, I think I'm going to try to make my own. What do you use to get the big holes in the center for the kinpin? Just a big drill bit or a hole saw, or what?
J. J. [ 09-26-2001: Message edited by: patooyee ]
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#20 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2000
Member # 2322
Location: Hollister, CA 95023, USA
Posts: 134
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The taper for the 4 nuts that hold the arm is not that critical. I used a 7/8" drill bit and called it good.
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