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#1 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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I just got my new centerforce pieces, a Stage II disc, pressure plate and T.O. Bearing. I am a little sketchy about the Stage II stuff, apparently I didn't research good enough, and I now have a very HIGH performance clutch for a stock blazer? Does anybody have any experience with these things? I will be installing it this week, so any info is greatly appreciated!
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1977 K5 33x9.50 BFG muds Honda XR250 Yamaha Big Bear 400 |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2001
Member # 6816
Location: Fawk if I know
Posts: 15,275
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most centerforce clutches are designed to be run and actuated under very heavy loads. high rpm's and lots of power. i personally do not like them and base this on experience having worked at and managed a tranny shop for quite a while. i don't think they're worth the money and they don't last. besides, lots of them end up with severe chatter problems.
but that's only my opinion. to each his own. if i were you i'd put in oem parts or go to a auto parts chainstore, they should carry LUK clutch kits. that's who makes clutches for gm and ford. how long did the original clutch last?! <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce2.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce2.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce2.gif" border="0">
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#4 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2001
Member # 6816
Location: Fawk if I know
Posts: 15,275
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ps: i got a LUK clutch in my wagon!
<IMG SRC="smilies/bounce2.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce2.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce2.gif" border="0">
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#5 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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The OEM clutch lasted 160,000 miles! I am hopinig that this centerforce clutch works out, since you are the first negative opionion I have recieved I am still upbeat about it!
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1977 K5 33x9.50 BFG muds Honda XR250 Yamaha Big Bear 400 |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2001
Member # 6816
Location: Fawk if I know
Posts: 15,275
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centerforce clutches are based on a LUK design and parts, but they are not produced by LUK. centerforce basically takes a LUK or beck/arnley clutch and modifies it with stiffer "fingers" or weights on the clutch fingers and stiffer springs.
160000 is not bad, is it. also normally goes to show how the vehicle is driven. <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce2.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce2.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce2.gif" border="0">
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#8 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2000
Member # 1475
Location: Aurora CO
Posts: 1,471
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Quote:
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"Common sense is not too common" ------------------------- |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2000
Member # 1919
Location: BC Canada
Posts: 7,547
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high rpm centrifical wieghts
doesnt describe my truck. for the money they want for it you could almost get a dual disc Mcleod and get the surface area that will actually help. get the HP clutch book it is a wealth of knowledge. unbelievable that it is a reboxed LUK <IMG SRC="smilies/rolleyes.gif" border="0"> |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2001
Member # 6816
Location: Fawk if I know
Posts: 15,275
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you never know, do ya?!
LUK does sell a line of high performance clutches also, called the pro gold series but just like a centerforce clutch they are overkill and not really designed for 99% of the vehicles out there. <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce2.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce2.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce2.gif" border="0"> don't fix it if it ain't broke!!!!!
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#11 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2000
Member # 694
Location: Commiefornia
Posts: 1,536
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I don't like Centerforce clutches. They make shifting at higher rpms more difficult as the weights are attempting to override you pushing the clutch in, therefore generally resulting in higher pedal pressure and slower shifts.
Unless you are a mud addict with lots of power and big tires, you'll probably be happier with a good quality heavy-duty diaphram style clutch. Just be careful not to get one with too high pedal pressure, as this is hard on crankshaft thrust bearings (and your leg, hehehehee!) Also the stage III is a metallic lining which doesn't break-in, and is very 'grabby' with almost instant lock-up. This material is just like the metallic brake pads used on some race cars. When we took apart my friends yota after only a couple thousand miles the flywheel and pressure plate both had .020" to .030" deep 'grooves' the width of the clutch disc facing material worn into them. However, his full metallic clutch never slipped!
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michaelsavage.com |
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#12 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2001
Member # 6816
Location: Fawk if I know
Posts: 15,275
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i have to agree with Nate. the stage 3 stuff will ruin a flywheel every time after a few thousand miles. i've seen it, trust me.
the other problem nobody mentioned is that with a stiffer clutch you run the chance of wiping out your clutch slave and master, especially if they are the original units. certainly will reduce the life expectancy! <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce2.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce2.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce2.gif" border="0">
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#13 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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Everything is doing pretty good, I now have some noises that weren't there before, but nothing major I think! It is a nice clutch! I actually liked it before I adjusted it and it had quite a bit of free play. Now it lets out at the very top of the pedal stroke, which I don't like! I like having it engage more near the bottom.
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1977 K5 33x9.50 BFG muds Honda XR250 Yamaha Big Bear 400 |
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#14 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2001
Member # 6816
Location: Fawk if I know
Posts: 15,275
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make sure you have enough freeplay or you'll smoke the throughout bearing!
<IMG SRC="smilies/bounce2.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce2.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce2.gif" border="0">
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