Eninge Building Help, anyone running superchargers?

[FullWidth]

Im getting reading to start building a chevy engine. This is what Im looking at right now, if I buy one with a automatic (which I probably will) Im going to buy the Jet Performance 700 R4. I want to have enough power to turn the 44's, when going up hills on the Freeway form Prescott to Prescott Valley (2 lane rode) I wanted to rebuild a 350, go with a cam, intake, carb, and a supercharger. Maybe with a blower because they look cool. This rigs will be the pavement punder/mud runner. So my questions is, a friend in my class told me that im looking at buying all new pistons, and rockers and the whole nine yards, instead of ordering a rebuilt kit from summit, I would have to spend all this money to make it handle the supercharger. Will ther engine handle the supercharger and make it so I dont have to do so much shit or am I looking at what my friend Matt said? Im going 14 bolt and Dana 60, not to sure if I should go with 4.88 or 4.56, I was thinking about 4.88 because of the overdrive in the 700 r 4.

All your guys help is appreciated.

Lance

[4x4realm]

If you use the small super charger it works with a stock engine. I have a friend with a gm crate 350 small block and the small weilend supercharger and it kicks ass.

[The Rockslut]

Drop the compression, get good flowing intake/head combo with good quality parts. I would recommend aftermarket pistons, Keith Black or Forged. When messing around with forced induction do it right the first time.

[Shaker]

If you are gonna build a motor for supercharging you might wanna run a steel crank with Aluminum pistons/rods. Always use a 4 Bolt main! Try to keep the compression low 9 to 9.5 works good. It is highly recommended to have a good set of heads that "Flow" great cause that's the BIG "secret" to HP. I am really fighting this now with my 383 I just built!! I just don't wanna spend $$$$ for a Supercharger. Good luck <IMG SRC="smilies/beer.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/smokin.gif" border="0">

[Lloyd]

You're going to put a 700R4 between a blown Chevy and 44's? <IMG SRC="smilies/nuke.gif" border="0"> Maybe a 4L80E if you don't drive like I do.

Forged pistons with the blower, or you'll soon wish you did.

[zakk]

ok, here goes:
if you are building a blown motor, the last thing you want in a non-race motor is aluminum rods. they will strech over time and kaa-boom to motor or necesitate annual or bi-annual rebuilds. if you were a racer w/ sponser to buy new engines & parts it would be the only way to go to save recipitating (sp?) weight but not for an engine you want to run and enjoy for a while w/o wrenching constantly. you want a steel assembly in the short block, 4 bolt mains if you plan to go for the 6-71 dryers type or above. I have heard of two bolts working with a 4-71 producing mild boost. Summits forged steel crank is good for the price, eagle forged steel rods are a bit pricey but worth the $$$ a friend says. Forged pistons (i perfer TRW's, good price & quality) are also needed due to the pressure in the heads as are ARP hardware on everything. 8:1 or 8:5 is a good compression ratio to run on street gas. 9:1 is pushing it IMHO. BIG flowing 2.02 or larger heads are REQUIRED to do anything, unless you are trying to strangle your big-buck motor. free flowing exhaust is a given on any engine, but h-pipes seem to like blowers in my reading. A cam should be choosen carefully, perhaps custom ground if you can afford it. balancing and blueprinting would be money well spent to keep vibrations to a minimum.
I would just get a mild big block. you will have comprable power w/o all these hassles and torque to spare. also it would be alot cheaper...possilby better on gas milage too. not as cool looking but nothin beats big block rumble.
I sure many ppl allegedly "know better" so i am expecting the flames...and (sp?) i will learn to speel sumday...
just trying to help...just my .02

[lv2whl]

sounds to me like zakk knows what he's talk ing about, even if he can't spell it. <IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0">

[zakk]

LOL! i would have flunked out of college my first semester if it was not for speel cheque! i use it even to right memoz (speeling intentionally badder than in reel life) <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

[FullWidth]

I want to run the Jet Performance tranny, and I want the power to turn the tires. I dont want to go all hell bound and spend $3,000 building the engine, and then spend the money on a blower.

So what is the best blower to go with if going with aftermarket heads, intake, cam, and a good rebuild kit from Summit.

Thanks Guys

[zakk]

if you are not going to purpose build a motor as i outlined in the earlier post, a 4-71 is what you are gonna end up with. so with ALL those mods + the blower + the JET tranny you are WELL over 5k based on what you have outlined. if you are well under 5k i want to start shopping and going to swap meets with you, cuz u r flat out lucky. Torque is what is gonna turn those big fat juicey meats. With 44's i would go with a big block. you are not gonna be outrunning 5.0's or Z06's. build a mild big block will be more streetable, more power, cheaper, more reliable and easier to work on. I am eyeing a mild and freshly rebuilt 396 (inc. accesories) hooked to a rebuilt 400 for $1500 out here in the Bay area so you can get some WAY cheaper out in the boonies if you are willing to look. <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0"> I know you said u wanted a blower because "it looks kool" but it wont be so kool when a stock ford roars by you as you sit on the side of the road...just my .02 <IMG SRC="smilies/skull.gif" border="0">

[spoolnaround]

I had a friend whos brother put a small blower on a stock 350 in a 55 chevy and never had a problem the 2 years I knew him. Luck? maybee.

[FattyCBR]

Another thing to think about is the T-case you are going to run. If you're running 44 and a big motor you probably want a NP205 which actually has a good ratio for mud/sand. At the same time you should figure out how much you're willing to spend on adapters for a 205 to a non-OEM tranny match-up. Also you might want to figure out your final ratios to determine whether to go 4.56 or 4.88. Good luck.

[71RCKCRZR RYAN]

WELL EVERYBODY HAS THEIR OWN OPINION AND I WILL HAVE MINE TOO.......IF YOU WANT TO RUN A BLOWER OR CENTRIFICIL TYPE..YOUR LOOKIN AT A LOT OF $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
IF YOUR GONNA BUILD IT DO IT RIGHT........
I DONT KNOW IF YOU HAVE PRICED MACHINE WORK OR IF YOU NEED ANY DONE BUT EVEN THATS EXPENSIVE TO BE READY TO BUILD A MOTOR .
BORE&HONE,ALIGN HONE, DECKING,HOT TANK,CAM BEARINGS PRESSED IN.

THEN YOU NEED HARDWARE. YOU DONT WANT THE CRANK TO COME OUT.ARP. HEADS, ARPSTUDS. THE STUFFGETS EXPENSIVE. I DID IT ONCE.NEED A STEEL CRANK BALANCER,H BEAM RODS ARP BOLTS, PISTONS . JUST SPENT ALOT ON A SHORT BLOCK..

SORRY WENT A LITTLE CRAZY THERE.
I WOULD BUY AN ASSEMBLED SHORTBLOCK WITH LIKE 8.5 COMPRESSION FROM A KNOWN ENGINE PLACE. CIRCLE TRACK MAGS HAVE GOOD ADS.YOU CAN PICK UP A SHORTBLOCK FOR LIKE 1000$BUY SOME BIG DART HEADS, AND A SMALL BLOWER,BIG EXHAUST AND YOU WILL BE SET .A LOT CHEAPER BUYING ONE ASSEMBLED AND BALANCED ALREADY...

600 HP IF DONE CORRECT CAM,HEADS,CARB,ECTECT
THATS JUST MY OPINION.....

WHAT DO YA GUYS THINK?

[ 10-16-2001: Message edited by: 71RCKCRZR RYAN COELHO ]

[zakk]

it could be done on the cheap but torgue is the name of the game in fourwheelin'. If you could get a Olds 455 or a Cadilac 500 in your rig and do the aftermarket thing, manifold, card/fi, headers, distributor, etc. your usable powerband and the fact that you can pull the earth right out from under you would be best. I think it is easier to keep it simple. Repairing a blower out on the trail it not what i would consider easy.

[FullWidth]

The whole reason Im doing the engine is because Im takeing engine repair in school and were are building engines, I want to take it again next year to build a engine for my chevy. Im not worried about street racing or going hella fast, I dont want to bog going up hills and not beable to go up the hill, I dont want to be like a 4 cylinder with 38 trying to climb a hill and through it in 3rd and rev the shit out of the engine. I wasnt putting the tranny in the price of the engine, the tranny is about a $1,000. what tranny came with the 700 r4, I do want to run a 205. I was loooking into engine only prices.

Lance

[dawhipp]

OK my .02: Rebuild the engine, check all the clearances twice, four bolt mains would be nice, mild (Hydraulic) cam, good flowing exhaust (headers). Now the blower - a Weiand 4-71 or a B&M. There are probably others that are small displacement street roots/lobe blowers. No you won't have a big 6-71 sticking out the hood. You will get the power and torque without re-engineering the engine bay (ala big-block).

[spoolnaround]

Is this going in the Chevy or the Toyota??

[Shaker]

I work with guys who build 1500-2000 HP engines running suspercharges 24-7 and they run Aluminum rods. I got a set of H-beam in my 383 cause I might supercharge that eventually. I ran "steel" in my 350 1st time and had a 6-71 blower on it and guess what they bent......yes they had arp bolts/studs. Run what you can afford but start saving for new rods......Guaranteed... <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/beer.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/smokin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/tongue.gif" border="0">