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Old 06-04-2009, 09:25 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Wiring an Ignition Toggle switch and Push button Start

I am transplanting a 1993 s10 blazer 4.3L CPI engine into a toyota truck. I am using the entire chevy wireharness from the donor blazer. I removed the toyota harness and plan on starting the engine using an ignition "ON" toggle switch and a push button start. This will be a trail only truck. I have the engine in and would like a little help in the wiring department.

My queston is: Which wires from the steering column do I plug into which side of the switches. I want the starter to crank ONLY if the ignition is in the "ON" position. I have isolated the ignition and starter plugs from the harness and need a little help.

I searched like a motherfucker for this information, but really couldnt find exactly what I was looking for.

Any help would be appreciated or feel free to flame away.

This is the pics of the plugs.

Thanks
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1982 Toyota 4x4 - [URL="http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=774031&highlight="]The Dirt Squirrel[/URL]: Phase II underway: 4.3L CPI, TH350, Toy 2.28/D300 OTT doubler, D60/14B/5.13s, f150 RUFs, artec linked rear, Profender c/o's, 44" Skinny Boggers, fool hydro...

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Old 06-04-2009, 10:40 PM   #2 (permalink)
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from the ignition just a stander on/off type switch take the "on" side split it and run one to the starter button(the other goes to the ignition). and then from the starters "on" side to what ever kind of relay you would like. as always fuses and relays are your friend

Last edited by subranger; 06-04-2009 at 10:41 PM.
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Old 06-05-2009, 08:03 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Humor me for a second: Which wires from the plugs above do i put on which sides of the switches. I do not want to short anything out, costing me more $$ in the long run
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1982 Toyota 4x4 - [URL="http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=774031&highlight="]The Dirt Squirrel[/URL]: Phase II underway: 4.3L CPI, TH350, Toy 2.28/D300 OTT doubler, D60/14B/5.13s, f150 RUFs, artec linked rear, Profender c/o's, 44" Skinny Boggers, fool hydro...

1992 Dodge D350 Cummins tow whore
1979 Toyota Hilux 2wd DD with a 2rz. Turbo coming soon.
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Old 06-05-2009, 08:12 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Looking at your pix...

The brn/tan/grn harness should be your turn signals

The red/orange in the middle is the power feed (Red = Bat+ and should be hot all the time) Orange is your Ignition (This turns the motor off) and is switched.

Pur - Ignition Start
Pnk - Ignition Coil (You can get clever with a relay on this circuit to prevent hitting the starter when the motor is running.)
Brn - Acc+
Orn - Ignition Switched
Red - Battery B+
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Last edited by THachiya; 06-05-2009 at 08:26 AM.
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Old 06-05-2009, 08:21 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Sweet thanks. Do i need to run a relay to the starter? Also, can I run a jumper wire from the switched "ON" side to the starter button, so it will only crank when the ignition switch is on?

I appreciate the info.
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1982 Toyota 4x4 - [URL="http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=774031&highlight="]The Dirt Squirrel[/URL]: Phase II underway: 4.3L CPI, TH350, Toy 2.28/D300 OTT doubler, D60/14B/5.13s, f150 RUFs, artec linked rear, Profender c/o's, 44" Skinny Boggers, fool hydro...

1992 Dodge D350 Cummins tow whore
1979 Toyota Hilux 2wd DD with a 2rz. Turbo coming soon.
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Old 06-06-2009, 09:17 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the_white_shadow View Post
Sweet thanks. Do i need to run a relay to the starter? Also, can I run a jumper wire from the switched "ON" side to the starter button, so it will only crank when the ignition switch is on?

I appreciate the info.
no relay to the starter. plumb the purple wire into one side of the pushbutton switch, and a + wire from your ignition toggle to the other side...
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Old 06-06-2009, 09:35 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Sweet thanks. Also, can I run a jumper wire from the switched "ON" side to the starter button, so it will only crank when the ignition switch is on?
Definitely. The relay idea option would be to take a 5-pin relay and wire it like this:

86 - Ground
85 - From Pink Coil Lead
87a - To Starter button
87 - Cover (Not used)
30 - 12V+ from On/Off Toggle

Pin 87a will be hot when the ignition switch is on unless the engine is running. (When the relay gets power at Pin 85 it will switch 12V away from Pin 87a and move it to 87.)

The purpose is to create an interlock to prevent you from engaging the starter while the engine is running.

Good luck.
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Old 06-06-2009, 10:53 AM   #8 (permalink)
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and i gotta ask....
why would you put this on a relay?

you can do this without it.
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Old 06-06-2009, 11:35 AM   #9 (permalink)
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and i gotta ask....
why would you put this on a relay?

you can do this without it.
Without the relay, the starter button will be hot whenever the ignition is in the ON position, allowing you engage the starter while the engine is running. The relay "reads" the alternator output and kills power to the starter switch when the engine is running.
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Last edited by THachiya; 06-06-2009 at 11:38 AM.
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Old 06-06-2009, 12:00 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Personally, I would have the toggle switch that is powering the PCM, injectors, coil, etc trigger a relay as well. I saw that because cheap parts store toggle switches SUCK. You can get a good toggle switch, but it will cost you more than a relay. Look behind the glovebox of any GMT400 Chevy truck with the electronic heater head and you can get 3 relays with sockets for damn near nothing at the junkyard. For YEARS everyone, and GM especially, ran all that current through the ignition switch. And for YEARS it was a great service opportunity because the contacts in the switches would burn up and either cause a huge voltage drop or just plain not work anymore. Now everyone uses relays and those problems have gone away. You can mount a relay in such a way that replacing it if you ever had to would be a whole hell of a lot easier than replacing even a simple toggle switch. On top of that, a basic jumper wire with a 3/8 spade terminal on each end can jump a relay to get you going again rather than disconnecting all the wires from a toggle switch and balling them together with half a roll of electrical tape. Relays are more reliable and more easily serviced if you should need to. Why would you do anything else?
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Old 06-06-2009, 01:57 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Thanks for the reply guys. I wired it up yesterday using a relay to power the start button. I am using a heavy duty 30amp toggle to switch the ignition on. If it ever goes out, I will put it on a relay too. Thanks again. Relays are just cheap insurance and only cost $4 at O-reiley's.
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1982 Toyota 4x4 - [URL="http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=774031&highlight="]The Dirt Squirrel[/URL]: Phase II underway: 4.3L CPI, TH350, Toy 2.28/D300 OTT doubler, D60/14B/5.13s, f150 RUFs, artec linked rear, Profender c/o's, 44" Skinny Boggers, fool hydro...

1992 Dodge D350 Cummins tow whore
1979 Toyota Hilux 2wd DD with a 2rz. Turbo coming soon.
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Old 05-25-2011, 02:47 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Definitely. The relay idea option would be to take a 5-pin relay and wire it like this:

86 - Ground
85 - From Pink Coil Lead
87a - To Starter button
87 - Cover (Not used)
30 - 12V+ from On/Off Toggle

Pin 87a will be hot when the ignition switch is on unless the engine is running. (When the relay gets power at Pin 85 it will switch 12V away from Pin 87a and move it to 87.)

The purpose is to create an interlock to prevent you from engaging the starter while the engine is running.

Good luck.
Thanks for this info. I agree with Grumpy that you don't have to have a relay. If your running your conatant power to a toggle and then from the toggle to a momentary switch, then you shouldn't have any worries. I have been doing it that way for a few years now. However, I will be installing a relay as a saftey precausion since this weekend my toggle and momentary seem to have failed and burned up my solenoid. You can do it with or without, but better to be safe than sorry. Thanks for this info. I know it's an old thread but it is exactly what I was looking for!!
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Old 05-25-2011, 04:43 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Is this on a rig, or a DD? I just did this to my Comanche, seems to be working fine.

on/Off and a toggle for the starter. Just be mindful of that switch, mount it where you have to reach to get it, not next to where your hand lays on your knee. Mine is damn close to the steering wheel, I have to reach behind it to hit it.
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Old 05-25-2011, 08:15 AM   #14 (permalink)
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