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Old 09-23-2009, 06:37 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Cutting chevy 63" overload = Ghetto axle wrap?

how much should i cut it?
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Old 09-23-2009, 07:18 PM   #2 (permalink)
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why would you want to cut it?
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Old 09-23-2009, 07:38 PM   #3 (permalink)
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why would you want to cut it?
Cuz he's flipping retarded.

Maybe he meant removing springs from the pack?
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Old 09-23-2009, 08:09 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Cuz he's flipping retarded.

Maybe he meant removing springs from the pack?
it is done all the time, if you want or need about an inch more lift but don't want the overload limiting flex. Kinda makes it a little lift block that doesn't spit out since it is attached to the spring pack. I have done it all of my rigs. To answer the question, I have always just cut it down so it is about 6" long overall. I have never had any axle wrap.

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Old 09-23-2009, 08:16 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I have never had any axle wrap.
I'm calling bull shit
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Old 09-23-2009, 08:25 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I'm calling bull shit
Call the world flat if you want, fact of the matter is I never have experienced any axle wrap.

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Old 09-23-2009, 08:45 PM   #7 (permalink)
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The overload does limit flex. That is what an overload spring is designed to do. I am planning on cutting mine down to around 8" total length to gain more uptravel. I also have a traction bar.

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Old 09-23-2009, 09:16 PM   #8 (permalink)
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The overload does limit flex. That is what an overload spring is designed to do. I am planning on cutting mine down to around 8" total length to gain more uptravel. I also have a traction bar.
I stand slightly corrected, but they were very vague in their post.

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how much should i cut it?
I don't know.
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Old 09-23-2009, 09:20 PM   #9 (permalink)
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it is done all the time, if you want or need about an inch more lift but don't want the overload limiting flex. Kinda makes it a little lift block that doesn't spit out since it is attached to the spring pack. I have done it all of my rigs. To answer the question, I have always just cut it down so it is about 6" long overall. I have never had any axle wrap.
School me on this. Are you saying adding an already cut up overload to the spring pack?





Although I think that's what your talking about...:blackflipoff2:
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Old 09-23-2009, 09:44 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I stand slightly corrected, but they were very vague in their post.

I don't know.
Thanks for the English lesson, Fawker.
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Old 09-23-2009, 09:48 PM   #11 (permalink)
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School me on this. Are you saying adding an already cut up overload to the spring pack?





Although I think that's what your talking about...:blackflipoff2:
He's saying that if you take the overload out, you will lose about an inch of lift. You could add a cut up overload to the spring pack if you wanted to. Its pretty much just a thick leaf, and the amount of leafs vary.
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Old 09-23-2009, 10:35 PM   #12 (permalink)
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School me on this. Are you saying adding an already cut up overload to the spring pack?





Although I think that's what your talking about...:blackflipoff2:
you cut the overload to about 8 inches total, so it add an inch of lift, doesnt affect flex, and prevents axle wrap! Its a magical thing!

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Old 09-24-2009, 09:15 AM   #13 (permalink)
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I did it, it's like a zero rate. It have me that little bit of lift I needed to level out the back

Ps just buy a zero rate. I'm eventually going to swap it out for that because I need to relocate the axle an inch back.
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Old 09-25-2009, 01:54 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I don't want to argue with Gutter Runner, because I hold his opinion in the highest regard...BUT...the overload spring on a 64" leaf pack is perfectly flat. It is true that it would limit uptravel past the entire leaf pack being flat, but if you're flexed out that far, you're breaking leaves already and dearching the rest with a reverse concave. As far as axle wrap goes, you are going to need a ladder bar or something. The 64's are already so long and flat, they're really fluid in their motion. It doesn't matter what you do with the overload, you already have axle wrap, even if you don't cut it and leave it right where it is.
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Old 09-25-2009, 02:51 PM   #15 (permalink)
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You can reverse arch stock springs without breaking them. I've done it many times, and haven't broken one.

I wouldnt recommend doing it all the time, but once in a while isn't going to kill them.
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Old 09-25-2009, 04:08 PM   #16 (permalink)
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I don't want to argue with Gutter Runner, because I hold his opinion in the highest regard...BUT...the overload spring on a 64" leaf pack is perfectly flat.
Thanks for the respect. I know that I'm not always right, but your comment got me thinking and I went out to look at my rig. On my set of 64's the overload is arched. This gives you more of a progressive rate. I snapped a couple pics. My thoughts are to cut the overload and taper the end right where it starts to curve. Just because my set is arched doesn't mean that all of them are. They are stock springs. And nevermind my rusty rotors fawkers...Its been a busy summer.

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Here is a pic of the 52's I put in the front. You can see on this set of springs that the overload is flat. This shows how I cut them down. Eventually, I ended up removing the overload altogether.



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Old 09-30-2009, 06:26 PM   #17 (permalink)
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I stand corrected...Oh well. How much "stuff" can you do or reverse arch on the spring before there's damage to the spring's integrity? Now I'm considering doing the same thing Gutter Runner did to all 4 of my 64" springs!
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Old 10-01-2009, 12:10 PM   #18 (permalink)
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It's not the negative arch itself that causes issues, it's the total defection the springs go through and the force applied to them at that moment. It just so happens that most springs have a positive arch to begin with and thus when you do go to a negative arch you have a lot of total deflection. Also in this situation (uptravel, compression, whatever you want to call it) the springs are under a lot of stress as you are putting the weight of the vehicle on them and forcing them to compress. On the other side (droop) you are not putting nearly as much stress on the springs because they are only holding up the weight of a tire and not a large portion of the total vehicle weight.

Take a spring that is perfectly flat under zero load. Will it magically only fail when it goes into negative arch but fine when it goes to a positive arch (assuming the same load is applied in both directions)? No, it won't.
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Old 10-01-2009, 03:32 PM   #19 (permalink)
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how about just flipping the overloads to the opposite of what is pictured on gutter runner's truck? that would allow the springs to compress a bit farther?
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Old 10-01-2009, 03:34 PM   #20 (permalink)
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how about just flipping the overloads to the opposite of what is pictured on gutter runner's truck? that would allow the springs to compress a bit farther?
And also dig into rocks, mud, etc. Just cut em.
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Old 10-01-2009, 04:40 PM   #21 (permalink)
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to the OP, and maybe the rest of you who think this is nonsense, you may want to check out the "Toyota Truck and 4Runner section. People do this all the time when they do the chevy 63 swap in the rear of their yota's. The overload limits flex quite a bit and by cutting it down it will still reduce axle wrap but also let you flex more.
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Old 10-02-2009, 03:45 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Lets not forget that bumpstops are an important part of a properly setup suspension.
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Old 10-02-2009, 06:52 AM   #23 (permalink)
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lets not forget that bumpstops are an important part of a properly setup suspension.
x2
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Old 10-03-2009, 12:32 PM   #24 (permalink)
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I replaced the overloads on my 64's with ones from a Tahoe. No cutting needed, shorter and flatter from the factory. Thay still have a little positive arch in them, but I will probably flip them over to allow a little negative travel in the spring. They are inside the diameter of the tire so I am not very worried about them digging into mud, rocks or anything.
Look at Tahoe and Suburban overloads next time your at the wrecking yard. The Tahoes are shorter than the Suburbans.
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