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Old 10-07-2009, 08:36 PM   #1 (permalink)
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my 98 blazer aka hunkojunk

so my wife bought this 1998 blazer 4x4 4 door with intent to drive it but did not know that is was a peice of junk lol... i am a chevy fan and but man.. i am not shy to the crawling world or the wheelin word but this is my first s10 build

so right now i have the motor out of the blazer because it spun a rod bearing and took out the crank. i am in the process of rebuilding it. now that i look at the ifs it is crap the bushings are gone the balljoints are beat and the welds on the ifs are cracked. its weird because the blazer was driven buy some old guy and the thing is very clean.

My ideas are get rid of the ifs and sas it, ive built toys jeeps zuks you name it
now i have a hp 30 and 35 sitting in my yard is it worth it to put them in?? or run the 30/10bolt?? i know you have to redrill the rotors if you do that?? but are most of the gears ratios close to eachother? i can get my hands on a 44/9inc for cheap but what is diffrent in the swap.

ill build my own spring set up in the front and run a spring over f/r stick with the 4l06e and the 233/4.3

questions
how do you get rid of the abs?? do you just delete the abs box and plum in a valve? or jsut pull the fuse??

can you swap in a d30/35 and run it??

how do you adapt a diffrent front drive line?

i am building it for my wife so you can rag on me all you want
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Old 10-07-2009, 08:43 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I vote D44/9"

Do not waste any time with a D35

Other than that, we need to know your style of wheeling, terrain, and tire size
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Old 10-07-2009, 08:56 PM   #3 (permalink)
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you should just pull the fuse for the ABS.
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Old 10-07-2009, 10:00 PM   #4 (permalink)
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i am a all around wheeler and i use to be hard on the skinny pedal but that has change. i am thinking 33-35's its mostly for the wife
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Old 10-08-2009, 04:28 AM   #5 (permalink)
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How did you manage to spin a rod bearing??

Yes just pull the fuse for the ABS by federal law if it malfunctions (pulling the fuse lol) it has to revert to normal brakes.

I agree dont waste your time with the 30, or 35, if your gonna do it, do it right lol.

Also should swap in a manual in place of the juice box, but thats just me lol

You adapt a different front drive line by cutting off the IFS crap and attaching some leaf spring hangers and run a damn drive shaft to the transfercase, steering, brakes, I thoughe you built crap before, or maybe I mis understood your question lol
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Old 10-08-2009, 08:24 AM   #6 (permalink)
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i dont know on the bearing it jsut started knocking at a idle so i tore it down and sure enough it spun the bearing.

no it has that weird cv style drive shaft and no fixed yoke on the transfercase side. just splines is there a place to get a fixed yoke or adapter

i was thinking of using the 30/35 to set it up and get a rolling chassie that i like then going and finding a hp60/14bolt
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Old 10-08-2009, 11:07 AM   #7 (permalink)
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using the axles you have would be a good idea. but if your only going to run 35s then why spend the money on a 60??
i would step up tire size since you know your going to want to when your done
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Old 10-08-2009, 08:42 PM   #8 (permalink)
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yea the biggest i really want is a 37

what is a good spring for the front
i have a set of 52" rears i was thinkin of using or maybe some xj rears
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Old 10-08-2009, 08:44 PM   #9 (permalink)
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is the older vortech v6 the same as the newer version?? i mean the bottom end i found a 92 or 93 blazer with the tpi style vortech v6 and the version i have is the cpi version
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Old 10-09-2009, 10:21 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrissybf86 View Post
yea the biggest i really want is a 37

what is a good spring for the front
i have a set of 52" rears i was thinkin of using or maybe some xj rears
I would look into a diverside drop D44 and an NP231c w/ SYE.

Im debating hacking up my daily driver, a 95 s10 2door. Thinking about slider shackles up front and 52" all around.
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