does anybody get off on using 4 link calculator

[abigassbowtie]

I cant find a link that will work and I read about somebody elses numbers and apparently I am not smart enough to understand about half of the sh%^ he was talking about so I would like to have someone else tell me where and how long my links should be for the rear double triangulated four link but i need to know what information they would need so il just post what i think you would want to know.
its a 79 chevy 39.5 tires I have 18" travel 2.5 inch coil overs I havent bought my springs yet but I believe I want a 175 and 250 for about 6 inches of shock before full bump drive line should be about 36" long yoke to yoke anything else you wanna know just ask
Im honestly not a helpless pice of shit just not as smart as alot of you and dont wanna put something on my truck that isnt going to work the way it could if i would have just asked

any help is much appreciated
also sorry about my lack of punctuation I failed to make it to that class

[trkklr77]

make you lowers as long as you want/can. ie 48" long

make the uppers 70%ish as long. ie 36" long

mount the ends at the axle tube 25%+ of the tire height. ie 44" tire you want them 11" apart.

mount the frame ends 70% of the axle tube spread.

[Grumpy_old_fart]

if'n yer smart enough, you can make your mounts adjustable. Some applications dont allow for a lot of adjustabilty, some really do

[abigassbowtie]

that easy huh? awsome!
i plan on making sure i have as much adjustment as possible

one more question if you were to run bushings on one end and joints on the other what would you want on the top and what on the bottom or should you just use joints on top and bottom?

[Grumpy_old_fart]

here....

not realistic for rocks... but for my purposes, they'll do.

[OIIIO]

Originally Posted by abigassbowtie

that easy huh? awsome!
i plan on making sure i have as much adjustment as possible

one more question if you were to run bushings on one end and joints on the other what would you want on the top and what on the bottom or should you just use joints on top and bottom?

I've given myself nose bleeds on that fawkin thing!!

Stick to the basic theories posted above, keep it simple and make everything adjustable...

Rubber bushings are normally used on the chassis end of the links.

The only advantage is that the ride will be nicer as the rubber absorbs some of the impact.

On a triangulated four link rear, the rubber bushings on the lower links will be destroyed pretty fast. If you don't mind a rougher ride go heims or Joints at both ends.. last heaps longer, flex better and tyres soak up the bumps!

[abigassbowtie]

i see i see I dont play on rocks i suppose i should have stated my intended use I just trail ride with the truck so its alot of everything mud, rocks, slime, cars whatever gets in the way of me

I appreciate the help

[Grumpy_old_fart]

i have a lot of time wrapped up in my 4 link calculations. almost 2 hours.

but I did take my time and i was realistic about my expectations and application, which is drag racing in mud.

[abigassbowtie]

well thanks I appreciate all the help

[Rusty4x4Chevy]

Bushings and links and heim joints and coilovers remember when we would go beat the crap out of a stocker with cut fenders and just mashem . I am excited about all the work you have been doing to your truck its gonna be a bad bitc# By the way if you still want an ac cab my cousin is getting ready to strip that 3/4 ton 2wd let me know

Later

[abigassbowtie]

yeah still want the a/c cab it will be nice to be able to wheel in the summer when all our trails are open and not have it be 120 degrees inside the cab

[trkklr77]

pussy

[abigassbowtie]

it gets fawking hot here 110 sometimes and why not i got everything but the cab to do it

[frikenwoodro]

I drove my truck in sincity during summer with no ac. Just take your doors off

[abigassbowtie]

why when i could roll the window up and turn the a/c on i dont have a shortage of power so really theres no down fall to it oh and i got a brand new 30 lbs bottle of r-12 and

[trkklr77]

so, it gets just as hot here. i have never had a/c in any of my trucks, hell last year i partialy melted the sole off of my boot.

[abigassbowtie]

i have had a/c in two vehicles now and i will never buy another rig with out it unless its a parts rig and even then i would prefer it its just nice my wifes suburban blows 42 degrees inside when its 102 out cant tell me you wouldnt like that while your wheeling or even just cruising down the highway

[Grumpy_old_fart]

if youre wheeling with the windows up, youre not really getting the full effect, imho.

I try not to use AC in anything because its one more thing to go wrong, one more accessory to drag around, more hp to rob, a belt to store, and the AC box makes it difficult to get to the spark plugs just a tad bit more.

I like very little hassle. the KISS principle works for me, Im not with the "if it dont go, chrome it" crowd... Im with the "Paint is a luxury item" crowd.

[abigassbowtie]

BUT it would be awsome to have the a/c for when your driving to the next section of rough terrain and i agree always have the windows down when wheeling but if not wheeling why not have them up and a/c on and if the only thing that can go wrong that would stop you is if the pump froze up then just cut the belt and no more a/c for the day I just think it would be a nice luxury and I need a cab badly im about to fall through the floor from rust

[Rusty4x4Chevy]

Got the front clip off today and all the cab bolts spun out one handed cab mounts all still decent havent looked under the floor mat its not torn but its a vynil one so didnt want to pull it up and crack it Bench seat is a gay no tilt forward pile and its a 73' A/C cab has tilt column and ignition switch is cool dash all there um pulled the headlight harness away to cab so nothing cut there but the ignition stuff and starter wires got cut but it was wired for points so had weird stuff anyway its got vacuum boost if you need it and uh missing one door panel.

[abigassbowtie]

this is kind of off the topic but I hear some people running all right hand thread rod ends so links dont change length while wheeling this a good idea you think? one more question I went and bought 2.25x3/8 wall d.o.m. for link material you think this is adequate for a 5000lbs truck?

[abigassbowtie]

can you tell me why you use shorter top links it would seem like you would want them the other way around so as the suspension drops your pinion would continue to point at the tranny output instead of pointing down?
thanks in advance

[Grumpy_old_fart]

if you have your mounting points wrong, the links will let the pinion rotate too much. thats one reason for using the calculator.

if you have the pinion moving down drastically under droop, your upper links are too short and your lowers may be mounted in a bad spot..

[abigassbowtie]

so I am using 2.25 by.375 wall for my lowers and im hoping they will be strong enough but for the top i was just gonna use the same but if i can get away with less i would like to save the material for the front since it is so expensive so what should i use for the top that would never be an issue of bending you think 2"x.120 would never bend or 1.75 x .120 even ? the rig weighs 5000lbs!

[78stepsideUAK10]

Heres my thread for my 4 link

Heres roughly the numbers I'm going to use



And my link material 2" with .5" wall. They said it will probably bend but I'm not too worried, there was bigger material in the scrap pile.