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Old 03-28-2010, 09:10 PM   #1 (permalink)
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napco eaton front end re build, cut n turn, beef up

started teardown yesterday and went from there. the axle seals i pulled out of it were leather seals from the old days which have been leaking and letting water pour in since the first trip. ill let the pics do the talking
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Old 03-28-2010, 09:14 PM   #2 (permalink)
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manual locking warn hubs

axle shafts

housing

super old leather seals
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Old 03-28-2010, 09:17 PM   #3 (permalink)
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grinded out plug welds since i dont have a one inch drill bit

drivers side knuckle and ball off

axle tube

size comparison

PS knuckle
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Old 03-28-2010, 09:21 PM   #4 (permalink)
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passenger side 2 piece knuckle

closed ball inner knuckle, kingpins?

upper kingpin brass bushing and race.
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Old 03-29-2010, 12:54 AM   #5 (permalink)
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i think im going to turn the pinion up from zero degrees to 25 degrees but ill have to do a little bit of figuring once i get new spring perches
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Old 03-29-2010, 05:30 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Are you reusing the front axle shafts?
What are the dimensions?

Too bad they look to be neck down.
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Old 03-29-2010, 05:22 PM   #7 (permalink)
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how do these front axle compare to dana 60s or d44s? i know where one is for cheap
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Old 03-30-2010, 03:28 AM   #8 (permalink)
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chopped off the old spring plate (PITA) and stopped by ruff stuff today to pick up some new ones and got the angles to where i wanted and burned em in a little pit
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Old 03-30-2010, 03:30 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Are you reusing the front axle shafts?
What are the dimensions?

Too bad they look to be neck down.
yea im reusing the front shafts. but i may get new inner shafts made by sombody, maybe some 300m's
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Old 03-30-2010, 03:33 AM   #10 (permalink)
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how do these front axle compare to dana 60s or d44s? i know where one is for cheap
IMHO they are what i would consider a true 3/4 ton front axle. so that would make it inbetween a 44 and 60. it has so far never given me a problem besides having wayyyyy too leaky axle seals. and i have harped on it quite a bit. but id like to lock it sometime soon,
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Old 03-31-2010, 03:55 AM   #11 (permalink)
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started hacking off the cast in spring perch on the passenger side today. lots of steel to chop off, but i think im going to plate all around the spring perch on the housing and shit just to be sure im not weakening it. also took my old seals to napa today and they were able to cross reference them for me and get them delivered in an hour. good shit. will have pics of shit tomorrow
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Old 03-31-2010, 09:54 PM   #12 (permalink)
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got the perch on passenger side welded on. cut the welds on the passenger side knuckle and turned it then tacked it. tomorrow ill weld it all up for good. then its just reassembly and fab.
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Old 03-31-2010, 10:40 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Looking good. Those Rzeppa joints in the ball are stronger than u-joints IMO.
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Old 03-31-2010, 11:13 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Looking good. Those Rzeppa joints in the ball are stronger than u-joints IMO.
All depends on how the joint is designed


Care to take measurements of the shafts (say, largest and smallest diameter, diameter at splines, number of splines, etc.)?
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Old 04-01-2010, 01:23 AM   #15 (permalink)
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All depends on how the joint is designed


Care to take measurements of the shafts (say, largest and smallest diameter, diameter at splines, number of splines, etc.)?
yep no problem, ill do it tomorrow. you are 38377k5 over at ck5, no?
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Old 04-01-2010, 09:28 AM   #16 (permalink)
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yep no problem, ill do it tomorrow. you are 38377k5 over at ck5, no?
Yep
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Old 04-01-2010, 12:54 PM   #17 (permalink)
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All depends on how the joint is designed


Care to take measurements of the shafts (say, largest and smallest diameter, diameter at splines, number of splines, etc.)?

A Rzeppa is designed just like a CV joint.
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Old 04-01-2010, 02:20 PM   #18 (permalink)
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A Rzeppa is designed just like a CV joint.
Yep

But stock Toyota Birfield joints are pretty weak while some of the others that use that design don't suck so much. CV's (Rzeppa, whatever) aren't inherently bad, depends on how they're sized/designed.
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Old 04-01-2010, 07:28 PM   #19 (permalink)
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I've never seen one break. Who is selling these as Dana 60 u joint replacements, Longfield? I'll stand by my original statement stronger than u-joints, especially ones of comparable size. The Rzeppa/CV design has more articulation and strength size being equal than a u-joint.
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Old 04-02-2010, 12:09 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Yep
nice to see you fartin around over here, the measurements are......

inner shaft: spline that goes into the third is 17 and 1.5 inches diam, at the neck down it is 1 1/8 inches in diameter, the spline that goes into the birf is 12 splines and 1 3/8 in diameter.

birf and stub shaft: birf is 4 inches in diameter the stub diameter not at the splines is 1 1/8, and the diameter at the splines is 1 1/4 and is has 16 splines

and i see where you are coming from just4cus on the joints being stronger than a conventional u joint because there is more points of engagement
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Old 04-02-2010, 12:24 AM   #21 (permalink)
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and i see where you are coming from just4cus on the joints being stronger than a conventional u joint because there is more points of engagement
I have no clue how stout these cv's are but this is a typical birfield failure:

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Old 04-02-2010, 12:32 AM   #22 (permalink)
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cleaned up the housing and third and painted it all. threw it under the truck and as you can see my pinion angle issues are solved....
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Old 04-02-2010, 12:33 AM   #23 (permalink)
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I have no clue how stout these cv's are but this is a typical birfield failure:

whats the diam on toyota birfs?
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Old 04-02-2010, 12:36 AM   #24 (permalink)
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cleaned up the housing and third and painted it all. threw it under the truck and as you can see my pinion angle issues are solved....
Looks like shit, i'll trade you my 44 for it.
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Old 04-02-2010, 12:56 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Looks like shit, i'll trade you my 44 for it.
not a chance
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