I run 63s in the rear and have some good pictures of how i set them up in the build. Leeman on here ran 57s in the rear and now runs 56s, He also runs 52s up front. I will find a link for you later, Also I will be updating my Build with cage, semi-boatsides, gears, and 6.5 turbo. I am sure some others will chime in that are running 52s ect.

 

Bump.

Updated, but I'm sure I'm still missing a bunch.

 

Nice write up really helps me out allot being new to spring swaps.

 

Glad it helped... let me know if you find anymore helpful threads and i'll add them.

 

Bump.

come on guys, chime in and let me know what else to add.

 

54 inch dodge springs. im gonna run a set when i get time to go get some and put them in.10 inch pin offset.

 

Leemans 52/56 swap
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=876700

 

Thanks.

There should be more pics of the rear suspension once I finish up the motor and start on some tube work back there.

 

Updated.

Keep 'em coming guys...

 

here is a ton of good leaf spring info:
http://littlekeylime.com/MrN/mrnimages/leaf_springs.png

i am planning on picking up a set of these 56" dakota springs and putting them up front in my one-ton'd blazer, with the 24" side forward to move my axle forward.

 

theese were the ones i was talking about,just didnt have my measurement right.

 

I did a 2x4 to 4x4 swap with 52's

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=700682&highlight=78stepsideuak10

 

This is some very good info..
So I guess Im going to hit up the wrecking yards to find some leaf springs..
If I could get a little tech help before I go...?
I have a 79 Jimmy and I would like to get longer leafs front and rear and keep the axle in the same location, looking to get a good shackle angle. Im not able to weld at this time just need a strait bolt on... Thanks

 

his is some very good info..
So I guess Im going to hit up the wrecking yards to find some leaf springs..
If I could get a little tech help before I go...?
I have a 79 Jimmy and I would like to get longer leafs front and rear and keep the axle in the same location, looking to get a good shackle angle. Im not able to weld at this time just need a strait bolt on... Thanks

 

52''s Front 56''s Rear

http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=813485

 

Updated. Keep the threads coming... This is shaping into a good resource.

 

http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=874054&highlight=


In progress can take many different pics of whats needed for the thread.......

 

Thanks for the link, lots of good info in there. What length shackles are you running?

 

7.25........ Pic time ill being going out in a few. What is needed?

 

BTT for people.........

 

Heres my first gen 52" swap
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=801355

 

Added.. thanks for bumping this thread

 

Good resource. Feel free to add my build to the list. In my sig.

 

Added. Anybody else have ones to add

 

Hey what length shocks are you guys using?
I have a set of take off's off a JK wrangler shocks,think they would work?
With shock mounts relocated of course.
thanks guys

 

I would just like to add that 95ish dodge 1500 springs are 59" long

 

Bump, anyone have a build or thread that should be added to the list?

 

52" budget swap

So I've been scanning through all these threads picking up as much info as I can, but one answer I can't get a straight answer to is...will in need to swap my driveshaft immediately before I'm able to use the 4x4? Now I know that moving the axle 2" forward is going to require I change the driveshaft regardless, but right now I'm a college student and strapped for cash so I'd like to be able to pull this swap out for as little money as possible, and if I can reuse the stock driveshaft for a little while that would make this swap ideal for me. Or is there any way to do the swap without having to change the axle location so that the driveshaft isn't even an issue? I have a 350 with a 700r4 and a 208, and a stock 10 bolt front if that helps. This rig is also my daily driver so I can't pull it off the road for weeks on end as I work on it, I'm limited to essentially weekend warrior wrench turning.

 

The stock CV will not have enough droop. You can cut up the CV and make it a single u-joint on the t-case end. I run stock slip (5"?) drivelines and they were pulling apart every run until I added a center chain as a limiting strap. I replaced the chain with a Beard limiting strap because it was too harsh over bumps. Right now my front driveline is a chopped up $20 rear driveline out of a delivery truck that was in the crusher pile at the junkyard. I also run a 1350 Tom Woods Superflex joint on the t-case end. Make sure your driveshaft does not bottom out when you land a jump.

 

it's not that the axle gets moved forward any in a long spring swap. i think ideally you need to keep the axle located in the exact same position as it was with the short stock springs. this kept me being able to use off the shelf steering components. in my case the new springs allowed so much more downtravel that when the passenger side drooped down a stock d-shaft slip would never handle it, and since i'm running a cv front the stock cv would never handle it even when i ground the limiting points in the cv for more angle. the cheapest setup would be to do like corey did and use standard u-joints/no cv, you just have to turn the diff to get the correct corrosponding angles between the t-case yoke and the diff yoke. this is also something that i pobably wouldn't plan on taking only one weekend. it took me two solid days to do mine on a bare frame with alot of tools involved, because of all the measuring things many times, planning it out, getting the front spring hangers changed out, making/moving the rear shackle hanger, getting the spring packs setup for greasable bushings, swapping out leaves in the packs, etc.
if you want to do it one step at a time i think i would start with getting the front spring hangers changed to some multi hole ones. diy4x sells a spring hanger plate that has 4 holes in it that can be a lifesaver when it comes to setting your new springs up. you can weld to the bottom of the front body mount in place of the stock spring mounting point and you could bolt your stock springs back up to it. or get thier b52 kit like i did and be done. then when you get everything else swapped in you might find like i did that i had to move my springs around to three different positions untill i found one that allowed the steering to move correctly, and the tires not to hit the rear inner fender well. then if your running 56's like i did i had to move the rear spring mount to get the better shackle angle and length, so build it and finish off a second weekend.