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Old 02-24-2012, 05:49 AM   #101 (permalink)
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Took some time to get the truck steering again..With 6 different projects going on at once cash is tight..So i reused the AG ram from my old doges and some 1" thick mounts i made years ago from ar300 plate. Got the steering vale from the same dodge(originally from a hyster H50 forklift) and made some -6 lines with 3/8" hose.

It doesnt bind but the install is pretty hack..My worries are that the ballistic steering arm will bend or flex under stress and allow the cylinder to bind. Everything is just tacked in place right now so i can get the truck moved..Its currently.I plan on adding a plate between the truss and the ram mount tube.To make that i just cut and rebent my drag link tubing 1.5" 1/4" wall DOM.

Right now the truck is wedged between a steel rack and a support beam so its hard to work on. Gotta get it ready for its last trip of the year at the end of march.Then its going under the knife again.
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Old 02-24-2012, 11:04 AM   #102 (permalink)
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Great to see updates on this big ole girl. How fast is that orbital valve?
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Old 03-07-2012, 06:10 PM   #103 (permalink)
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Takes 4 1/4 turns lock to lock..Obviously the extra 1/4 is from running a single ended ram..

Right now im kicking my ass because after patching the tube on the stuan, i over inflated it and blew it inside the tire..So im dicking around trying to find the right sized or close sized tube to replace it..Ive got one on the way for a street bike and found a few cheapies from kenda for a utv app..

In themeantime i found that the factory oil cooler lines are leaking so im gonna switch to a full synthetic oil and assemble a remote dual filter setup..

I have some -8 1/2 hydraulic hose just need the adapters as well as the remote housing and oil filter bypass plate..I really like this peice from Canton instead of the cast alloy trand dapt stuff..Gotta justify the extra cost with the beancounter though.


Ive always run Canton stuff on the drag cars and havent had an issue.
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Old 03-13-2012, 10:09 AM   #104 (permalink)
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that looks like a really nice remote mount. much nicer than the cast crap I've run in the past.
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Old 03-13-2012, 10:24 AM   #105 (permalink)
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Looks good what oil filters are you going to be using?
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Old 03-13-2012, 05:02 PM   #106 (permalink)
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Yeah i dislike the cast oil fiter adapters.I snapped a quick pic of the topside to give a better idea of how its built..The machine work is top notch as all Canton products Ive run..Comes with the o rings and what appears to be stainless steel bolts with o rings to seal them up.

I got the Transdapt dual filter housing and im gonna run two Fram HP1s.. I didnt have any Fleet guard filters on hand..I will look later for the fleetguards as i know i can get them in a larger size than the frams.More than likely twice as long.

Later on id like to add a HP oil pump, 3 quart accusump to the system and maybe a cooler.That kinda depends if i swap in the 6.0 I've been tripping over or work the 454.The remote filter setup should be in by the weekend..I have some hoses that i can use but may need to shorten them.Just gotta run from queens to brooklyn to empire hose to get the right fittings.Then out to long island to get some redline or royal purple oil from S&K Speed.
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Old 04-15-2012, 07:57 PM   #107 (permalink)
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So i didnt get the remote mount filter setup done..But did swap out the bad O2 sensor, found out that one of the pins for the cable linkage on the 205 fell out so i replaced that with a 1/4-20 socket caps screw and crimped locknut. Ive always had a check engine light and the truck in high range started to loose a ton of power when it was in closed loop.Swapping out the O2 took care of the light but the truck did seem a touch rich.So i swapped out the MAP sensor for a different one( i used to try different MAP sensors from FWD cars and testing them to get my tpi cars to run leaner) The truck ran pretty good so i loaded it up and took it to rausch creek.Ran blues and blacks with a red here or there with highrollers..

The truck worked well all day (rode for about 6 hours). Snaking around getting used to full hydro again but on this truck it seems slower..No issues with the steering binding up or the fluid getting too hot.I worried about the welds at the high steer arm as well as some way breaking the TSC ram.

The rear bumpstops are setup damn near perfect..I had the rear tires at full stuff often and still had 3/4" of shock shaft left, with no ubolts trying to face fawk the fuel tank this time around.Got hung up at the rear u joint and it held up ok.. Had to use the rear winch to pull out of that with a sideways pull. Then picked a crappy line at what shoulda been an easy spot and slide the pass side into a tree.Took out both door handles and kissed the doors pretty good.Soon as the cab went past the tree the rock the tire was under slid and got the tree really close to the rad..Some creative winching and careful backing prevented the rear windlow from blowing out, but later i did find that the rear pass window broke.The doors still open easy peasy from the inside so its all good.

Even with the truck running better I know i need deeper axle gears and some form of a front locker..So if im lucky i can squeeze a detroit or at least a lunchbox up front with some deeper gears within the next two months.Hit a deep mudhole and couldnt get enough wheelspin so it took a few back and forths to get through it.It was about 4 foot deep with little to no standing water.

Im not much of a picture taker unless its involving a naked chick but next time i do plan on bringing a photgrapher and/or tripod.
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Old 04-15-2012, 08:21 PM   #108 (permalink)
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Didnt get any vids of the chevy but highrollers dodge makes it look easy..Great guy to wheel with and he deserves 20 self pats on his back..The rig is build well and other than getting high centered on the transfercase and diff guard, and a slight overheating issue he was getting it all day.

I made him lead most of the day just to watch that beast in action.
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Old 04-15-2012, 09:02 PM   #109 (permalink)
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I still cant beleive that window didnt pop.Get some dom and drag that thing over so we can bend up a exo for it.
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Old 04-16-2012, 02:00 PM   #110 (permalink)
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Need a tree bar in front of the rear tire.

so a Chemlawn camper, eh? nice!
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Old 04-16-2012, 07:56 PM   #111 (permalink)
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I still cant beleive that window didnt pop.Get some dom and drag that thing over so we can bend up a exo for it.
High rolleres did you buy a 14 bolt off me a few months ago? Squeeze ur dodge diesel dually in my little as garage?
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Old 04-16-2012, 08:07 PM   #112 (permalink)
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High rolleres did you buy a 14 bolt off me a few months ago? Squeeze ur dodge diesel dually in my little as garage?
yuuup thats me grabngears from ck5,whats up man?
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Old 04-17-2012, 05:28 AM   #113 (permalink)
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yuuup thats me grabngears from ck5,whats up man?
Nothing lol Just noticing a ram charger with a dovetail front in nj oddly similar to what you described to me lol.
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Old 04-21-2012, 10:19 PM   #114 (permalink)
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Got the remote oil filter setup mounted up.Had to work on the rig while it was on the trailer but its all good..The canton adapter went on smooth after a slight stretch of the orings.With a touch of locktight on the mounting screws to prevent them from backing out..I didnt want to over tighten them then squish out the o rings on the mounting screws.

I went with 1/2" hose and -10 90* fittings at the engine, starights at the filter housing..I couldnt find an extra 1/2 npt to -10 adapter so the 45* went on..Afterwards i found out that i wouldnt have had the clearance to run all straight fittings..Im sure -8 stuff would clear but i didnt want my fittings to be a restriction being as all the -8 stuff i have is for 3/8" hose.

I ran the hoses along the oil pan then over to the passenger side under the pan over to the frame rail, then up the rad support.Had some misc rubber insulated clamps to help hold the hoses..Just forgot to get the synthetic oil so i will have to wait in order to check for leaks.

Last time out the truck stumbled a bit after the mud hole and a further look i realized that i needed a better air cleaner.The one i had on the truck was from an astro van IIRC.Had a small element and was sucking hot air from the engine compartment.As well as water.lol.. I looked around for two hours trying to find a tbi filter housing from a 4.9 caddy but its MIA..So since i had time I took the last of my 1/8" 4" flat bar, cut down the air cleaner assembly, welded it up and then cut a short section of 4" driveshaft to attach a hose to..Im going to run a cone filter through the firewall and i should be good to go.

Also started on the skidplate's..I have 65" long sheet of 3/8" AR300 plate..Its super heavy but its free..Trimmed it down to 34" wide. But still have some cutting to do so it can clear the driveshaft's and whatnot..The plan is to run some 2x2x1/4" wall tubing from the back of the lower link mounts towards the back of the truck..Protecting the205 and the rear yoke.In a perfect world id love to have one flat skid from the engine oil pan to the rear yoke of the 205..But my plate is 14" too short..So i may cut this heavy sob into two..

If i cant get the skid flat i have two 12" wide 3/8 half moons that i will cut down to get the clearance around the 205.Id rather have a flat skid but I could live with a smooth 1" dip in the skid if need be..Should have the skid done by next weekend..
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Old 04-21-2012, 10:55 PM   #115 (permalink)
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Figured id paint it up..Just gotta get a longer stud and order the duct work now.
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Old 04-22-2012, 06:28 PM   #116 (permalink)
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i wonder what it sounds like with the air cleaner in the cab.
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Old 04-28-2012, 02:58 PM   #117 (permalink)
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Started on the skidplate today..I had a 64" long sheet of AR300 3/8" plate laying around. I used some 1/4 wall 2X2 tubing from the back of the lower link mounts then ran them straight back..Going to to use some 2X2 1/8" wall tubing from those to the frame to support it.. Have to build some support on the backside of the plate to prevent it from bending..

Wound up running out of cutting gas and cant get any more until during the week as my supplier is in NY.

My original plan was to get the belly at 25" or so.. But that would have forced me to use my half circles under the NP205 thus not having a flat belly..When it was all mocked up and the plate was bolted to the mounting rails i settled for a 22" flat belly. I figure my amateur driving skills will be better with a flat tummy so im leaving it there.. My plate to 205 clearance is only about an inch so i will have to frame the plate enough to support the truck.Id like to get coverage all the way to the front of the engine oil pan but even with welding on an extension ive run out of metal.. Right now its about halfway under the engine oil pan..

For now i used some leftover ring gear bolts from my spare dana 60 front. I will likely replace these with some button head screws and some hdpe sheet down the road.

Going to spend the rest of the weekend trying to find all my scrap to build the skeleton for the support.

I still have to build a skid for the passenger side of the truck to protect the coolant tubes running to the rear mount rad..

Sorry for the crappy pics all i had was my cell phone
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Old 04-28-2012, 03:07 PM   #118 (permalink)
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I also need to check the orientation of my oil filter lines. I changed the oil into some 5w30 and started up the truck..Shutting off the truck i noticed the fuel pump ran on for about 45 seconds..Upon restart everything seemed ok but when i shut it off the pump ran on again..A quick look at the oil pressure gauge showed that truck holds oil pressure well after i shut it down..While its a good thing I know the chevy ECM will keep the pump running long as there is oil pressure..Im worried about premature pump failure.
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Old 07-29-2012, 04:56 PM   #119 (permalink)
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After letting the truck sit for a few months, i hastingly took it out last weekend.

Tried to finish the entire skidplate with what scraps i had and still not make it all hack.So i decided to cut the tranny pan and oil pan section off and worry about that later..When its done it will have two skids, the engine and tranny skid higher than the belly skid but at least the belly skid is flat and 22" with the tires at 10psi front and 8 rear.I also took the time to run the air filter under behind the dash..Used a 90* steel bend and had to hack a sharp 75* to fit the K&N and then an aluminum 45* to the old air clearer housing..When cash allows id like to get something nicer for the throttle body but for now this worked.All this was done in 4 hrs after work on a friday before i headed out.
So the trip as rushed as it was and things going smoothly I shoulda known that id be riding for all but 20 minutes at rausch Creek.. Ran J3 in and was denied stair step 4 times from my approach angle, on the last try i walked the right front tire onto the rock and cut hard passenger.The truck walked right up and then as the drivers rear started up the truck stood straigh up and did a nice wheelstand.So my first reaction was to slam reverse and drop the front end down.. When i backed off the rockface it started running with a hard miss but it still made good power.. So we played around J3 and made a climb up jotters way, then found what i think is an unmapped trail to the comp course.Two jeeps turned around and then one of them stalled out so i went back around to try to get him running..Ran the same hillclimb again but noticed a loss of power so i stomped it, the truck hopped and bounched off a few small boulders and then stalled out..After a pull back to camp with it barely running I was thinking bad fuel.Im still not sure on this as i put staybill in there but its my first time trying it.The gas is about 4-5 months old.But Later i did find that the front of the frame flexes after asshattery like that and my distributor was orientated so the module plugs were facing the firewall with 1/4" of clearance..Swapping out the dist for a junkyard one i found the original to catch every tooth on the pickup coil..So wires, dist cap and rotor and map sensor swapping later it runs a bit better..I will drain the gas later for fresh fuel.

Next ride should be turkey day down either harlan or aetnea mountain..Before then its deeper gears in the axle and a front locker,Large ass Vickers hydro pump, relocating the air tank and hydro tank,fresh fuel,and possibly a double ended ram instead of the hillbilly TSC ram off the hysteer arm.
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Old 08-16-2012, 07:32 AM   #120 (permalink)
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Was sent some vid of the last run..Denied but makes me see its time for a front locker and some gears.
Hulud44 - Rausch Creek - Aggressive buddhist (Phil) Stair step attempt - YouTube
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Old 01-10-2013, 09:20 AM   #121 (permalink)
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On your upper and lower links for the front, what is the length, and separation at the frame end? It looks like you made a parallel 4 link with panhard? does it bind at all?
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Old 01-10-2013, 02:09 PM   #122 (permalink)
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I will have to measure them this weekend to get exact specs..Im thinking the lowers are 38" eye to eye and the upper is 35-36 is.. I used the basic guidelines for a 40 inch tire. at the axle end its 11.25" and less at the frame(between 5-7)..


For the most part i wanted it super stable on hill climbs able to handle high speed rough stuff without a wimper, and to keep the pinion angle within 5* during the full travel.
It doesnt bind with the 14" coilovers and it can travel 21" before it binds.Its pretty stable and ive often had the truck damn near on its side and its always been sure footed.Ive done well at RC but ive been scared of the red trails because i didnt have a skid plate and the front diff was still open..

On the street it handles great but with full hydro on there now i want to tube out the front of the frame from the firewall out and build a longer flatter panhard bar.
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Old 01-10-2013, 04:22 PM   #123 (permalink)
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I'm just amazed that you tires dont rub the links being that they are wider than the original leafs...
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Old 01-11-2013, 05:23 PM   #124 (permalink)
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Well when i started fitting and checking i found that i could get the lowers under the frame. They move outward about and inch at the axle..The upperIs really close with about 1/2" clearance max but when i flexed it beyond the shocks travel it never hit..I attribute this to luck and the locaton of the panhard bar joint at the axle.. With the tires aired down to 8 psi they dont rub but when i had the truck down south hitting it on hillclimbs the tires touched at 4-5 psi in them.
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Old 01-12-2013, 11:52 AM   #125 (permalink)
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Is that a 3/4 ton frame?
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