Manual front locking hub problem on 71 chevy pickup!!

[BigHauss]

I have a 71 chevy cheyenne 1/2ton 4x4 with manual locking front hubs. When the manual hub dial on the left front is turned to the "free" position it tends to switch to the "lock" position while driving on its own..... You can tell when it does this because it will begin to make a grinding/clanking type noise...

It only tends to do this when driving on the highway, or driving for an extended amount of time. You can switch it to the "free" position again... And within another 30-40 minutes of driving it switches into the "lock" position.

Any help with what could be wrong?

[Rebel Customs]

replace the hub...

[trkklr77]

check the seals and plate on the stub shaft.

some times when they go bad or were not re-installed upon reassembly the stub shaft can rub the inside of the dial and try to switch it.

[BigHauss]

I was kinda figuring id need to replace them... any suggestions on hubs? Any threads that go in detail about replacing them?

Thanks

[GMCTruxrule]

Its pretty easy, remove the 6 allen head screws that hold the lockout, remove the lockout.

There is internal spring that holds the slug to the hub body, remove that. Should also be a snap ring on the end of the stub shaft that has to come off.

its pretty straight forward.

[trkklr77]

you left out and extremely important and frustrating wtf part scooter.

there is a large snap ring that hold the body of the hub in the wheel hub. a pair of small flat blades and or a pick really helps to get it out.

[gee whizz]

Originally Posted by trkklr77

you left out and extremely important and frustrating wtf part scooter.

there is a large snap ring that hold the body of the hub in the wheel hub. a pair of small flat blades and or a pick really helps to get it out.

if its a 71 shoudnt it have external hubs?
if they are internal hubs then yes he forgot about that snap ring.


i would take off the hubs, disassemble them and clean them out and reassemble them with alot of grease. the hub locking and unlocking while driving sounds like something is binding up inside the hub. there should be no twisting forces from the inside of the hub on the dial something isnt right.

[trkklr77]

externals are 3/4t only in chevy trucks.

back to the ignore list for you.........

[gee whizz]

Originally Posted by trkklr77

externals are 3/4t only in chevy trucks.

back to the ignore list for you.........

touche

[GMCTruxrule]

Originally Posted by trkklr77

you left out and extremely important and frustrating wtf part scooter.

there is a large snap ring that hold the body of the hub in the wheel hub. a pair of small flat blades and or a pick really helps to get it out.

Originally Posted by GMCTruxrule

Its pretty easy, remove the 6 allen head screws that hold the lockout, remove the lockout.

There is internal spring that holds the slug to the hub body, remove that. Should also be a snap ring on the end of the stub shaft that has to come off.

its pretty straight forward.

Maybe I didn't phrase it as eloquently as you did, but I didn't forget that part.

[trkklr77]

you dont know the difference between a snap ring that keeps the hub body in the wheel hub and the coil spring that is inside the hub body?

[BigHauss]

Thanks guys.... The internals were pretty straight forward... I removed everything down to the coil spring, everything looks like its in good shape, seals looked good too...

I believe the coil spring wasn't properly put in. I packed the hub with bearing grease re-assembled it, and now the dial really seems to lock in. I took it for a drive and it seems to work fine.

[cj7sswampers]

You would do well to replace the whole hub assembly.

[GMCTruxrule]

Originally Posted by trkklr77

you dont know the difference between a snap ring that keeps the hub body in the wheel hub and the coil spring that is inside the hub body?

Yes I do know the difference.

Like I said, I did not phrase it as eloquently as you did. I apologize if my terminology confused the OP.

The flat circular spring retaining ring (does that sound more conclusive?) that sits in a recessed groove on the inside diameter of the hub, close to the outboard end of the hub, that holds the lockout slug in place. That must be removed with small picks or flatblade screwdrivers.

Not to be confused with the coil spring that exists to provide the unlocking action of the hubs when the lockouts are turned to the free position.

There. Is that more descriptive? lol

[trkklr77]

wtf do you keep calling it a spring? its a snap ring or a retaining ring,

[just4cuz]

Originally Posted by GMCTruxrule

Its pretty easy, remove the 6 allen head screws that hold the lockout, remove the lockout.

There is internal spring that holds the slug to the hub body, remove that. Should also be a snap ring on the end of the stub shaft that has to come off.

its pretty straight forward.

The internal spring that I remember is a internal expanding ring, circular in nature that holds the drive flange into the hub, removable like trkklr said with 2 flat blades or picks. Then the snap ring is removed, this holds the end of the stub axle into the drive flange. I understood what you meant, but we all are not writing vehicle repair manuals here so I gave it a pass cause I understood. If some body really needs the technical jargon they can find the repair manuals online and not get the Pirate version. Besides a flame job you never quite know what you'll get on Pirate! Except for Gee Whizz not being too sure of the part in question, that seems to be a sure thing most of the time!