92 chevy build help/tips/suggestions

[The_Punisher]

I have been learning a lot of info from this site and am thankful. So I have a few little questions here and there and was hoping for some critiqueing.

I have a 92 chevy 1500 4x4
reg cab short box
TBI 350
3" suspension and 3" body lift sitting on 35's (bought it this way)

The lift really doesn't matter because I am SASing it and the rear just has 3" blocks. I am starting from scratch.

I am keeping the body lift just because I don't want to mess with it and the few advantages it has works for me.

So here is the build:
SAS 52's up front, ford balljoint 60
14 bolt, have the rufftuff complete swap kit, so I will have discs all around.
both axles are rebuilt with 5.13's and detroits
35's - 38's
hydro assist (I have most of the parts for this assembled cheaply from the JY and just need the hydraulic cylinder, fittings and lines)

I am keeping the stock 63's in the rear. I will use a zero rate if needed. But my plan for shackle reversal is to build a crossmember and bolt/weld it to the end of the frame rails with shackle hangers on the bottom. I feel like this will be easiest and simpler than a standard shackle reversal because I can make the crossmember strong and a good recovery point as well while getting rid of the hitch and bumper making it "cleaner". The front leafs are 52" Rancho 2.5" lift "baja" style springs. I don't exactly need/want this much lift in the front so i will play with zero rate and shackle length in the rear.

I want to run billstein 5150's on all 4 corners. I got 4 of those cheap ford shock towers to use. Has anyone had experience with these shocks on a fullsize? I will also run poly bumpstops. Two things I did to cut back $$ was no air bumps or dual shocks.

I have built the front crossmember and it came out nice. I will upload pics after I get home in a week. I made small adjustments to get the axle further forward for better weight distribution. I am using grade 8 bolts to bolt the stock recovery hooks (in stock location) and crossmember to the frame and then I will weld it in. Everything came out great. Used 2x4 square tube for crossmember.

I have a few questions on my drivetrain. I have a 350 or 454 I can build. Both machined and ready, I'll need pistons for both. I have gathered a crap load of parts for both engines.

I have a vortec 350 (with good vortec heads) roller block. I would do what's required to still run TBI and make around 300 hp maybe 350hp at the crank. I have it all drawn up and would be a great 350, probably pretty efficient.

I have a .040 over 454 with freshly machined internals. I have edelbrock aluminum heads (thanks onetoncv), will be roller cam, could for sure make 600 hp with a carb. I have looked into running TBI. I am thinking if I really want to keep TBI I would run the small block, because I won't be pushing 600hp with TBI set up for the 454 even with all the tips and tricks.

Would it be a hassle to run the carb'd BBC in this truck? I know the fuel pump needs to be changed. Do I keep the computer and stock gauges and all of the stock wiring harness? Another one of my concerns with the carb'd BBC swap is I am going to blow through gasoline out on the trail like it's nothing and that could drive up my cost to take camping trips.

I have a nv4500 to back either engine, and a 241C. I will get a SYE for the 241. I hope the 241 will hold up to a possible 454 and 37's-ish.

So what would you guys do with this build? I run trails in Kodiak, Alaska, it's a lot like the northwest, wet/rocky and tight trails. Lots of river/creek crossings and hill climbs.

[orbot]

I think thoose 5150's wont do with that size tire. id go 7100 with a custom build. and POST SOME PICS..

[The_Punisher]

Ok, I was wandering about them because they aren't that big (2" diameter)

edit- after looking at them they are also 2", and I'm not seeing the advantage to them over the 5150's. The 5150's are meant for custom applications and are only $100 a piece.

I will post pics when I get back to Kodiak.

[sjracer]

i run 5125's and thier fine with my setup for what i do.

[The_Punisher]

ok thanks. I want to be able to cruise the trails at a pretty good speed and not beet my passengers all to hell. I would like dual shocks and air bumps but I can't afford an "all out" build like I would like. When I use the truck I will be go camping or hunting and will most likely have some weight in the bed.

Would y'all go with the big block or small block. It seems like such a stupid question I know. I have aluminum heads for the big block so it will only be slightly heavier than the small block. Small block would be TBI and big block would be carb.

[ssyork]

I run the 5150's and have had great luck. I do not jump my truck though. The front end has came off the ground on some climbs, but i do not air it out. It was a 90 3/4 ton standard cab with a 350 tbi. Now its the s10 blazer body but same everywhere else down to the nv4500 and 241. Now a 241/205 doubler. I would run those shocks again in a heart beat. I also went to the bone yard and pulled the bumpstops out of a jeep xj in the front. Drilled a hole and put them on the shafts for bumpstops. Little heat and the eyes unthreaded fine,work great and cheap. I think they are the same on any front coils of jeeps, just reach in and pop them out by hand, was harder fitting them between the coils than popping them out.

[The_Punisher]

thanks for the input. 5150's seem like the best bet for my needs.

Has anyone tried the daystar "stinger" bumpstops. They are air bumps sort of. $200 for a pair with interchangeable poly stops with different firmness and the long ones have like a 4" stroke.

Would it make sense to run these stroking bumps up front and plain old poly bump stops in the rear? Probably some progressive ones from daystar

[onetoncv]

Thanks for buying them huh- Looks like they will have a good home - Can I visit them one and a while ? hehe - They were kinda like family -Jess

[DIESEL DAVE]

Another AK brother! I'm watching this one!

[gorgonheimer]

Ummmm.... where are the pictures?

[The_Punisher]

alright here are some pictures of my crazy messy garage, a bunch of parts like my dana 60 I'm currently rebuilding and a bunch of stuff I got from ruff stuff.

I actually cleaned my garage a while back, and stored my big block because I decided I wanted to run a tbi small block. I have a machined small block ready to go with vortec heads. BUT as soon as my big block parts showed up from Jess it was all over! You can't have a sweet big block with aluminum heads (ready to run fully assembled) and not run the big block!

so I am currently building up my 1 tons with 5.13's and detroits. The front dana 60 came out of a 97 ford that rolled into a ditch a couple years back.

http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/b...s/IMG_3507.jpg

truck is kind of gay but it was exactly what I wanted, reg cab short box, no rust was the biggest thing. Came with a total of 6" of lift, so far all I have done is installed a second battery and herculined the floor

http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/b...s/IMG_3513.jpg

http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/b...s/IMG_3512.jpg

http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/b...s/IMG_3511.jpg

http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/b...s/IMG_3510.jpg

this crossmember I built will be bolted to the frame with the recovery hooks in their stock location and then welded. I wanted to retain the stock recovery hooks because I dont want to add the weight of a steel offroad bumper to the front

http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/b...s/IMG_3506.jpg

shackle hangers, almost complete, they will be bolted and welded to the frame
http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/b...s/IMG_3505.jpg
sweet heads for the BBC
http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/b...s/IMG_3504.jpg
a nv4500 doubling as an engine stand holder
http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/b...s/IMG_3502.jpg

http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/b...s/IMG_3501.jpg

http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/b...s/IMG_3503.jpg

as you can see, there's still a puller on the 60's spindle, holy fawk I can't seem to get that thing off!!

those shackle hangers probably look pretty "different", basically the inside frame measurement was 39.5", and my outside leaf-leaf measurement is 39", so I just used 1/4" plate as a "spacer" of sorts to put the shackle hangers where I need them. They will have plate welded to box them all the way around (top and bottom) and I will add 2 gussets to the top.

[The_Punisher]

I have big plans for this thing obviously, but also in the works is a custom fuel cell. I am going to build it out of steel, probably 16 gauge or something. I will mount it in the very rear under the bed between the frame rails and it will be 31 x 26 x 14 which equates to 48 gallons, less with baffles and such. I gotta feed the big block.

other issue I need help with is the stock U-joint size on my dana 60 and 14 bolt, were they 1350 stock or something else? If so that's all I planned on running, but I need to figure it out if I need to change the yoke on my axles while I have them all apart.

[The_Punisher]

alright so I am piecing together my hydro assist and was wandering if there is any reason this hydraulic cylinder would not work?

http://baileynet.com/index.php?dnfwd...ileyno=218-299

it's on sale and only $47! I know with the clevis end it wont be "dual shear".

After that all I'll need is hydraulic lines with fittings.

[Myopic]

That ram should work fine, but check and see if 8" of stroke is enough for your axle to go stop to stop. Your lines will be cost more than the ram! Get the axle in and lift up the body/frame so you can measure, and get the lines long enough.

[The_Punisher]

thanks.

The axle is not under the truck yet. I marked the tie rod with tape and measured the same point lock to lock and found it to be about 8.5"

it's a ford dana 60

[The_Punisher]

I'm having trouble with tire selection right now.

I just got my tax return and am ready to buy some 35-38" tires mounted on 15" 8-lug wheels.

I'm looking at the mtr kevlar in a 35, swamper tsl bias in a 38, trxus mt and so on....

due to price I kind of want the tsl bias in a 38" flavor and sipe it probably.

I am in Alaska and run terrain identical to the northwest or canada. Wet rocky terrian with quite a bit of mud. I want to run trails "speedy" and not looking for a super heavy tire, but I do have fun in the mud. I have 5.13's

what do you think? Buying tires is always my toughest choice!

[The_Punisher]

ok I couldn't take the money sitting in my bank account so I bought some 38x12.50 TSL's on a 8 lug 15x8 wheel with 2.75" backspacing.

the mud tires that came on the truck are provisioned for studs on the outside lugs and I will sipe the center lugs, then use them as my winter tires.

Now I have a question about shackle position/angle. I am trying to figure out the best spot to put my shackle hangers before the axle/springs go under. They are 52" springs and while on the ground upside down the arch is 9" off the ground making them 47" long eye to eye while on the ground "relaxed" no load.

should I just mount them 47" from where the front hangers are so that at full droop-ish the shackle is straight up and down?? Then when they take a load they should have a decent angle? I have 8" long shackles that I drilled an extra set of holes in for adjustability. I hope I will be able to get away with drilling two sets of holes where the hangers will mount to add some trial/error before welding them up.

[The_Punisher]

since I posted this I have finally got a lot of work done. Rebuilt my front crossmember with a 3x5 .25" wall square wall and spring hangers from DIY4X. I used the rear portion of Fabworx offroad SAC kit, (their shackle hanger and shackles). Leafs are 2.5" lift Rancho 52" springs.

http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/b...s/IMG_4259.jpg

http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/b...s/IMG_4273.jpg

http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/b...s/IMG_4274.jpg

then the rear 14 bolt. Homebrew shackle flip, F70 deaver springs.

http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/b...s/IMG_5206.jpg

http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/b...s/IMG_5209.jpg

http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/b...s/IMG_5213.jpg

http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/b...s/IMG_5215.jpg

http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/b...s/IMG_5222.jpg

http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/b...s/IMG_5224.jpg

both axles have 5.13's and detroits. 38" TSL's, disc brake conversion on the 14 bolt. I am now ordering driveshafts. I have some more work to do to the front end and hydro assist. And I still need bump stops. I also installed a SYE on the 241 tcase with a 1350 CV flange. So both drivelines will be 1350 u-joint at the axle and 1350 CV at the Tcase.

Shocks are bilstein 7100 with remote res. I have not mounted them in the rear yet. Everything looked great when we cycled the suspension with the forklift. I was blown away when we checked the articulation. I didn't think it would be half that good. When he lifted the rear tire we never got the front tire off the ground because the forklift driver was not comfortable going any higher. When he picked up the front it was about what I expected.

The truck will be for wheeling and camping. I bought some badass bunk-bed cots that fit in the back under that soft topper.

[The_Punisher]

just ordered my drivelines from Jess!!

[The_Punisher]

Alright so after getting the rear axle in it still does not sit level with the SAS I did. It's an inch or two low in the back with no load/fuel.

The rear shackles are 6" eye-eye. I have a set of 8" shackles I could install. The front has a zero rate I made with an old overload to help the leafs clear the tie-rod.

I am thinking of removing that zero rate as long as clearance over the Tie-rod will allow and installing those longer shackles in the rear to level it out. I do have a degree shim on the front leafs that may be enough to allow ample clearance over the tie-rod....maybe

will these longer shackles be a problem? This truck is mostly for offroad, weekend warrior of sorts. What would be some of the downsides of that long of a shackle? MY front leafs are almost too soft already so I can't remove any more leafs from the front pack.

[The_Punisher]

Some more questions.

I am looking for good bump stops. But not just some poly bumps. I looked at daystar "stinger" bumps, but they seem way too expensive for what they are.

I like the Timbren "rubber springs". Does anyone know of a place I can just order the rubber springs/bumps or whatever you want to call them, and just order by the dimensions and stroke I am looking for rather than by application?

EDIT: Looks like I found what I was looking for on their site, found part numbers for what I want, just not finding an easy place/way to buy them online by PN

[silver98Z71]

I doubt you will like the hydraulic cylinder you listed. My roommate has a 2x8 cylinder on his truck and it will not turn the tires at idle, even after doing the West Texas Offroad mod to his pump. I like my 1.5x8 cylinder on my truck, it works great even on the street. But if you plan to upgrade to a higher flow pump the cylinder in your link will work well.

[The_Punisher]

thanks. Over the course of this 2 year build some things have changed. I bought a cylinder from PSC off a vendor on this site. It's been a while but I believe it is a 1.5 x 8, I know its an 8" stroke just dont remember the bore or diameter right now. And I will be sending my extra steering box to west texas offroad. I have my lines, a resevior from a diesel truck and a cooler.

What do you guys think about my issues with leveling this thing? Removing my zero rate (no real issue there other than clearance over the tie-rod, but I can deal with that) and the longer shackles in the back that are 8" eye to eye. How long is too long?

Removing about 3/4" from the front and adding 1" in the back would make it better. The 1" coming from 2" longer shackles

Any thoughts on the Timbren AEON rubber springs for bump stops.

[The_Punisher]

Ok I think I have my game plan.

8" long shackles in the back (feeling a little iffy about long ass shackles)
removing 1/2" zero rate from front (so 1.5" total toward leveling it)

And I called FOA, definitely going to try to buy their 2.0 bumpstops. They recommended the 2.0 with 2" stroke. And for $150 each they include the mounting can.

What do you use to determine how much stroke you want for your air bumps?? Suspension travel? Trail vs desert use?

[Grumpy_old_fart]

suspension compression, ride height, vehicle weight, tire size, axle unsprung weight....

little things like that.