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Old 01-24-2011, 12:12 PM   #1 (permalink)
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95 Chevy Tahoe 2 Door

I have my tahoe lifter with 3 inch blocks in the back and the torsion keys in the front with a 3 inch body lift all the way around was wondering if anyone knew of a way to get a couple more inches in the front without changing the setup I have now. Obviously I know I could drop the back down some just would rather raise the front does anyone know of a way of doing this?
Thanks for the info
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Old 01-24-2011, 12:25 PM   #2 (permalink)
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You're a day early.
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Old 01-24-2011, 12:52 PM   #3 (permalink)
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You're a day early.
Day early on what?
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Old 01-24-2011, 01:16 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I'm gonna help you out here.

This is Pirate. You have aftermarket torsion keys, blocks, and a body lift. None of those belong on this website. The independent front suspension on that Tahoe hates you.

You want some good advice? Get rid of your IFS altogether and find a Ford front axle and swap it in. I say Ford because they are already driver side pumpkin and so is your 241 transfer case.

There's no way to lift the front more without an acutal lift kit, which is a waste of money anyway.

You're lucky I got to this thread before a regular.
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Old 01-24-2011, 01:50 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I'm gonna help you out here.

This is Pirate. You have aftermarket torsion keys, blocks, and a body lift. None of those belong on this website. The independent front suspension on that Tahoe hates you.

You want some good advice? Get rid of your IFS altogether and find a Ford front axle and swap it in. I say Ford because they are already driver side pumpkin and so is your 241 transfer case.

There's no way to lift the front more without an acutal lift kit, which is a waste of money anyway.

You're lucky I got to this thread before a regular.
Awww isnt that nice.
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Old 01-24-2011, 02:17 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I'm feeling rather neighborly today.

Although 5 gallons of gas and a road flare is probably a better solution for this guy.
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Old 01-24-2011, 02:19 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I'm gonna help you out here.

This is Pirate. You have aftermarket torsion keys, blocks, and a body lift. None of those belong on this website. The independent front suspension on that Tahoe hates you.

You want some good advice? Get rid of your IFS altogether and find a Ford front axle and swap it in. I say Ford because they are already driver side pumpkin and so is your 241 transfer case.

There's no way to lift the front more without an acutal lift kit, which is a waste of money anyway.

You're lucky I got to this thread before a regular.
How much rougher of a ride will the straight axle be compared to the IFS b/c the way it is basically rough as hell right now like you said my IFS hates me the way I have it set up. One more question and forgive me if this is something that shouldn't be here either but the hardest part will be mounting the links for the leafs spring right other than that it should just swap and work great right?
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Old 01-24-2011, 02:19 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I'm feeling rather neighborly today.

Although 5 gallons of gas and a road flare is probably a better solution for this guy.

Lol at least you left on a dick note
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Old 01-24-2011, 02:32 PM   #9 (permalink)
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How much rougher of a ride will the straight axle be compared to the IFS b/c the way it is basically rough as hell right now like you said my IFS hates me the way I have it set up. One more question and forgive me if this is something that shouldn't be here either but the hardest part will be mounting the links for the leafs spring right other than that it should just swap and work great right?
Probably about as rough as your maxed out torsion bars. Seriously, search this site. There's a metric shit ton of good info on straight axles going into IFS Chevy trucks.
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Old 01-24-2011, 03:07 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Old 01-24-2011, 03:08 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Probably about as rough as your maxed out torsion bars. Seriously, search this site. There's a metric shit ton of good info on straight axles going into IFS Chevy trucks.
Bullshit. Correct spring rate leafs will ride 10x better than his maxed out torsion bars.
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Old 01-24-2011, 03:25 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Bullshit. Correct spring rate leafs will ride 10x better than his maxed out torsion bars.
Thanks man that's what I was wondering. I thought it might since I have those torsion bars maxed out completely any suggestions on a ford to look for front axle to swap out with?
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Old 01-24-2011, 03:47 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Guess he didn't catch the sarcasm.

But he's right about the springs. It's not going to ride nicer than stock IFS, but if you do it right, it won't ride like a tank either.

As far as axle choice, a Dana 60 is the most ideal, but pricey. A Dana 44 is easier to find, and way cheaper, but obviously less durable. It doesn't have to be a Ford axle, but they are the simplest swap due to being driver side pumpkin like the Chevy IFS. There are a few companies that make swap kits, or you can make your own from a truck that came with a solid front and leafs. Don't forget steering.

What is your overall goal for this truck? That will ultimately determine the parts you need. If you are serious about ditching the IFS, this is the right place. I'm building a Ford 60 for my IFS Chevy right now, guess where I found all the info I need.
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Old 01-24-2011, 04:01 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Guess he didn't catch the sarcasm.

But he's right about the springs. It's not going to ride nicer than stock IFS, but if you do it right, it won't ride like a tank either.

As far as axle choice, a Dana 60 is the most ideal, but pricey. A Dana 44 is easier to find, and way cheaper, but obviously less durable. It doesn't have to be a Ford axle, but they are the simplest swap due to being driver side pumpkin like the Chevy IFS. There are a few companies that make swap kits, or you can make your own from a truck that came with a solid front and leafs. Don't forget steering.

What is your overall goal for this truck? That will ultimately determine the parts you need. If you are serious about ditching the IFS, this is the right place. I'm building a Ford 60 for my IFS Chevy right now, guess where I found all the info I need.
My overall goal is to be able to play when I want but still be somewhat of an economical vehicle to drive on the road as I hunt and fish out of this as well so need to be able to drive the highway without taking out a loan to get there I know if I do the IFS swap I can lift it higher than what I have now a hell of a lot easier than what I am doing but just didn't know how hard it would be to find the right axle for what I'm looking for. I have 20 inch rims with mud tires now and it walks all over the road do you think getting rid of the IFS will help overall steering of a bigger wider tire? yeah thanks for your help man I did get his sarcasm just trying to be cool b/c I am an overall newbie but have gotten a lot of good info from here before.
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Old 01-24-2011, 04:31 PM   #15 (permalink)
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It walks all over the road because your frontend parts are thrashed from running that retarded excuse for a lift.

Lifted trucks and economical do not belong in the same time zone.

Big lifts are dumb. And suck in the dirt.

Sounds like a Dana 44 is fine for your application.

Now search
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Old 01-24-2011, 08:54 PM   #16 (permalink)
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You're a day early.
THIS fo sho!!
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Originally Posted by MegaCPC View Post
I'm gonna help you out here.

This is Pirate. You have aftermarket torsion keys, blocks, and a body lift. None of those belong on this website. The independent front suspension on that Tahoe hates you.

You want some good advice? Get rid of your IFS altogether and find a Ford front axle and swap it in. I say Ford because they are already driver side pumpkin and so is your 241 transfer case.

There's no way to lift the front more without an acutal lift kit, which is a waste of money anyway.

You're lucky I got to this thread before a regular.
And here is the advice you should be following
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My overall goal is to be able to play when I want but still be somewhat of an economical vehicle to drive on the road as I hunt and fish out of this as well so need to be able to drive the highway without taking out a loan to get there I know if I do the IFS swap I can lift it higher than what I have now a hell of a lot easier than what I am doing but just didn't know how hard it would be to find the right axle for what I'm looking for. I have 20 inch rims with mud tires now and it walks all over the road do you think getting rid of the IFS will help overall steering of a bigger wider tire? yeah thanks for your help man I did get his sarcasm just trying to be cool b/c I am an overall newbie but have gotten a lot of good info from here before.
I heard 20's,mud,IFS and lift it higher all in 1 paragraph. You better read more before you ask questions pertaining to any of these words
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Old 01-24-2011, 10:52 PM   #17 (permalink)
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dude search. you posted here without any sign that you looked up anything on SAS's. you apparently have spent no time at all reading up on what to do or what has been done. at least your heading in the right direction getting rid of the stupid ghey lift. also loose the stupid ghey body lift. mallcrawlers are for just that, mallcrawlin. your a big boy now, grow up and sell that worthless crap to the next sucker. start doing stuff to it that actually works.

wow, wheelin on 20's. that'll work well.
economy and mud tires. that'll work well

tires are the first thing suckin' up the bumps. if they don't have any sidewall then ALL the work has to be done by the suspension.
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Old 01-25-2011, 12:10 AM   #18 (permalink)
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get two big black dildos as shocks, should net about 2 inches.. dont forget about stacking rear blocks
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Old 01-25-2011, 07:05 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Searching is your best friend in this stuff. Research, Read and Review.

Cranked t-bars, and 3inch blocks is a poor excuse for a lift. If you really want to stick with the IFS (which I don't think you would want to), you need to start researching what lifts are best for our vehicals.

The best idea, is to ditch the IFS, and get yourself a Dana 44, and a 14 Bolt SF rear end. IMO, start with the rear end, find one, rebuild it, and put it in. Then get a dana 44, rebuild it, build the brackets and research on how to swap it (theres ton's of info on this stuff) and then do work.

Your wheel and tire set up is questionable. The 20's are part of the reason why your truck rides like shit. The other being that you have cranked t-bars. One other could be that you maxxed out your shock's travel. Did you ever replace them?

Also, you'll never have good economy with ANY mud tires. Actually, it's a fullsize suv, with tbi. Don't expect to ever get good mpg.
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Old 01-26-2011, 07:47 PM   #20 (permalink)
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buy a geo metro
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Old 01-31-2011, 11:46 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Searching is your best friend in this stuff. Research, Read and Review.

Cranked t-bars, and 3inch blocks is a poor excuse for a lift. If you really want to stick with the IFS (which I don't think you would want to), you need to start researching what lifts are best for our vehicals.

The best idea, is to ditch the IFS, and get yourself a Dana 44, and a 14 Bolt SF rear end. IMO, start with the rear end, find one, rebuild it, and put it in. Then get a dana 44, rebuild it, build the brackets and research on how to swap it (theres ton's of info on this stuff) and then do work.

Your wheel and tire set up is questionable. The 20's are part of the reason why your truck rides like shit. The other being that you have cranked t-bars. One other could be that you maxxed out your shock's travel. Did you ever replace them?

Also, you'll never have good economy with ANY mud tires. Actually, it's a fullsize suv, with tbi. Don't expect to ever get good mpg.
I'm not expecting to get car quality ride or economy out of it just 15 to 18 wld be nice and yes i had the shocks replaced with rough country's shocks that are extended for the lift i have.

Thanks for the info though
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Old 01-31-2011, 12:33 PM   #22 (permalink)
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With the clear amount of knowledge you posses, I would suggest just buying an ifs lift and stopping there. To complete a sas that is safe requires lots of fab skills and knowledge into proper support, design and geometry. There are too many sas'ed jobs out there that should not be allowed anywhere near the road and you sound like another canidate. Rough country completely rdesigned there 88-98 kit and its about $1000 shipped. Go that route cause a couple busted cv's is alot better than a ghetto fab contraption that could kill somebody.
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Old 01-31-2011, 01:44 PM   #23 (permalink)
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With the clear amount of knowledge you posses, I would suggest just buying an ifs lift and stopping there. To complete a sas that is safe requires lots of fab skills and knowledge into proper support, design and geometry. There are too many sas'ed jobs out there that should not be allowed anywhere near the road and you sound like another canidate. Rough country completely rdesigned there 88-98 kit and its about $1000 shipped. Go that route cause a couple busted cv's is alot better than a ghetto fab contraption that could kill somebody.
Don't worry I would not be doing this all alone if I tried something like that I promise. I would have someone with more knowledge on this subject to help
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Old 02-15-2011, 01:51 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Sas

Alright guys I now have a 79 Dana 44 front axle to complete my swap with and have also done a lot more research on this but was wondering some ppl have told me if i wanted to go bigger than 35's on this axle I would be wasting my money b/c all it would end up doing is breaking stuff. Let me know what everyone thinks about big tires with the D44 the overall biggest tire I would even consider putting on here would be a 40 inch tire and probably not anything bigger than 38's but just wanted to know the opinions of others on this.
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Old 02-15-2011, 02:02 PM   #25 (permalink)
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IMO if you're planning on staying mostly on pavement then a set of skinny 38's will be fine on an open D44. What are you planning for the rear? Might as well get a 14BFF for cheap, swap all gears at once and call it done. If you plan on going any bigger than that, and any moderate off roading at all, sell that 44 and get a 60. Nothing like doing the same work twice.
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