Triple X'n the D-max

[SmokinDuradog]

Couple pics. After 8 months finally got my wheels issues resolved! I'm happy with the results

[Grumpy_old_fart]

i dont see the issues...

[SmokinDuradog]

Sorry Grumpy what I meant to say was I had originally bought 4 tires and wheels mounted. 2 wheels were damaged. So they sent 2 more that were damged. In total they sent me 10 wheels I sent 8 back and kept the 4 tires.

This weekend I finally took shipment of 2 more wheels to get me back to 4 good wheels total with 4 good tires on them. It's been a PIA and has taken about 8 months.

I was just showing that I had 2 wheels and tires on the front bolted up and 2 laying in the background on the floor waiting to go on.

One more thing checked off the list. It just keeps getting shorter

[BigChevy644]

this is turning out to be a really good thread with a ton of good information. cant wait to see/hear about the final product and how it drives!!!

[xj9140]

Originally Posted by BigChevy644

this is turning out to be a really good thread with a ton of good information. cant wait to see/hear about the final product and how it drives!!!

Yeah, and thank you for the leaf spring ideas.

[theduck911]

Truck came out very nice!

Tires almost look a little small

The leaf/4-Link setup is definitely interesting, not sold on it yet, but I understand the reasoning behind it!

[SmokinDuradog]

Some rear brake line pics. Have to add a few tab's for the flex lines but I think I will wait until after it is aligned to be sure the link's don't need to be adjusted.

Plated in a portion of the frame on both sides from the back of the cab to the middle of the bed. Will finish it once I know how my cab chasis tank will fit.

Modded the locating tab slightly on my sending unit to allow it to clock into the cab chasis tank correctly and it locks down and seals up the O-ring correctly.

The 8" Deaver springs showed up Friday so now just waiting on some mounting hardware and brackets so I can get them located. Then fuel tank, fuel tank crossmember, and shock mounts.

The rear driveshaft from Jess at High Angle should be in by the end of this coming week so hopefully I can bolt that up and make sure it looks correct angle wise. Hop eto be wrapping up the everything in the rear in the next 4 weeks. Then I have some under the hood stuff to finish need a little more juice to power the 40's

[SmokinDuradog]

Some pic's of the springs

[jolane]

Originally Posted by SmokinDuradog

Some rear brake line pics. Have to add a few tab's for the flex lines but I think I will wait until after it is aligned to be sure the link's don't need to be adjusted.

Maybe make the tabs clamp to the links, such that they can rotate when needed for adjustment/alignment. Could be as simple as using a hose clamp (i.e. mounts for remote reservoirs).

Looking good!

[SmokinDuradog]

Thanks for the reply Jolane. Grizzly posted up a very similar idea to your's in his thread because I posted pics of my brake lines to help with his build.

He suggested double "p" clamping the line to the bars but a hose clamp would work very well also. I will have to grab a couple of each and see what I think. Thanks!

[jolane]

I'd suggest clamping the tab to the link, and using those to mount the brake lines. I wouldn't clamp the brake lines themselves. This will keep the stress off the lines when stuff starts moving/flexing.

Basically, figure out how to make your tabs secure yet adjustable. Maybe you could weld a thin tube to the tab, then cut the tube in half, which would then hose clamp to the link (i.e. make a saddle for the tab to ride the link).

Hope this makes sense.

[SmokinDuradog]

Not much new with the build waiting on parts. I did get the rear drive shaft in today. Jess at High Angle makes some sweet looking parts!

[geo in a K5]

Originally Posted by SmokinDuradog

Not much new with the build waiting on parts. I did get the rear drive shaft in today. Jess at High Angle makes some sweet looking parts!

So what are the specs on that shaft ? Anything special about it?

[SmokinDuradog]

I don't think it is anything special. The length from the center of the rear axle yoke to the face of the transfer case was 72 1/4".

So after talking to Toby at Triple X and Jess at HAD Toby thought the ideal setup would be 15* pinion angle on the rear axle. The Tcase is looking down at the rear axle at 6*. Due to the length Jess said to be sure of no driveline vibrations at highway speed it would need to be a 2 piece setup. I believe the mid ship will have a few degrees on it that will get me to about 8* looking at the rear axle then the rest will be soaked up in the CV should be about 7* on the long portion of the shaft which is what my links are at. Also the long portion of the shaft is very close to the same length of the links so this should keep the drive shaft happy from what I understand of the moving in the same arc.

At that time I asked Toby if he could incorparate the pillow block into the rear crossmember setup for the links and we placed that with slotted holes on 22"-23" from the face of the tcase. Allowing me a place to bolt the carrier bearing up.

Jess and Toby both agreed that for best performance for driveshaft angle it would want a CV after the mid ship to soak up max droop for the travel in the back.

All the u-joints are 1410. Hopefully this setup proves to be vibration free and unbreakable! LoL!

[carslut]

nice shaft, what did that bad boy end up costing?

[jolane]

Originally Posted by SmokinDuradog

I don't think it is anything special. The length from the center of the rear axle yoke to the face of the transfer case was 72 1/4".

So after talking to Toby at Triple X and Jess at HAD Toby thought the ideal setup would be 15* pinion angle on the rear axle. The Tcase is looking down at the rear axle at 6*. Due to the length Jess said to be sure of no driveline vibrations at highway speed it would need to be a 2 piece setup. I believe the mid ship will have a few degrees on it that will get me to about 8* looking at the rear axle then the rest will be soaked up in the CV should be about 7* on the long portion of the shaft which is what my links are at. Also the long portion of the shaft is very close to the same length of the links so this should keep the drive shaft happy from what I understand of the moving in the same arc.

At that time I asked Toby if he could incorparate the pillow block into the rear crossmember setup for the links and we placed that with slotted holes on 22"-23" from the face of the tcase. Allowing me a place to bolt the carrier bearing up.

Jess and Toby both agreed that for best performance for driveshaft angle it would want a CV after the mid ship to soak up max droop for the travel in the back.

All the u-joints are 1410. Hopefully this setup proves to be vibration free and unbreakable! LoL!

Is that a 1410 CV joint also? I have HAD driveshafts in my van and they are definitely very nice parts! Jess does a great job, and is easy to work with.

[SmokinDuradog]

When I gave Jess at HAD the specs on the shaft I told him that I wanted all the the joints to be 1410 I believe that includes the CV as well. It looks just like the front CV but it does not have near as much angle from what I can tell.

Makes sense though because Jess said the front CV isn't designed to me run at continuous highway speed engaged.

[jolane]

Originally Posted by SmokinDuradog

When I gave Jess at HAD the specs on the shaft I told him that I wanted all the the joints to be 1410 I believe that includes the CV as well. It looks just like the front CV but it does not have near as much angle from what I can tell.

Makes sense though because Jess said the front CV isn't designed to me run at continuous highway speed engaged.

I must be missing something...does this mean that you can't drive continuous at highway speeds? Is the shaft with the carrier bearing the front or rear shaft? I thought it was the rear.

I ask because I have a HAD shaft in my rear with a 1350 CV. While it has been perfectly fine and without issues, I've thought about trying to change it to a two piece shaft with carrier, withOUT a CV for strength. I'm afraid of the CV if I start towing a decent toyhauler with toys inside.

[SmokinDuradog]

Sorry for the confusion. When i said front I meant the front drive shaft that I had made already late last year it looks like the same CV that was used on this rear 2 piece shaft he just made me but the front is made for up to 42* of angle but is not recommended to be driven in 4wheel drive for long periods of time at highway speeds.

The rear 2 piece is for sure designed to be at highway speeds is supposed to be super strong according to Jess. He said everything from the axle to the tcase is 1410 spec strength.

Here are some pictures of the rear 2 piece shaft mocked up in position. Since I have a 1 1/4" side difference I found out today from Jess I do not need to add any more working angle into the midship off the Tcase. The tcase is 6* so the midship will be the same since it changes side to side dimesion by 1/2" within 2 feet.

Also the long portion of the shaft with the CV will be at 15* matching the pinion. The pictures reflect those degress that is what it is mocked up at. Now I just need to get bolts and make a 1 7/8" spacer for the pillow block location.

[knaffie]

Stupid question, but leaf springs and 4 link? Won't that bind?

[TBItoy]

Originally Posted by knaffie

Stupid question, but leaf springs and 4 link? Won't that bind?

shackle on each end.

[knaffie]

Originally Posted by TBItoy

shackle on each end.

Hmmm. Learn something every day.

[cwylie]

Good looking boxer!

[SmokinDuradog]

Thanks! He is 9 months old. His name is Maximus. AKC brindle male.

[SmokinDuradog]

Rear leaf spring brackets came in today. Along with u-bolts,spring plates, offset spacers for the rear shocks and brackets for the sector shaft support.

Toby's welds are amazing his parts are always top notch and worth the wait to get them! Thanks Toby!