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Old 02-03-2011, 05:05 PM   #51 (permalink)
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Old 02-03-2011, 10:49 PM   #52 (permalink)
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Toby, thats a bad ass truss set up.
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Old 02-04-2011, 01:42 PM   #53 (permalink)
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SWEET! The parts made it through the snow storm just in time for the weekend! Here are some pics of the components included in the kit from Toby and some other extra goodies that I had to have
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Old 02-04-2011, 01:54 PM   #54 (permalink)
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Old 02-04-2011, 01:58 PM   #55 (permalink)
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Old 02-04-2011, 02:17 PM   #56 (permalink)
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Thats some parts you got there
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Old 02-06-2011, 06:56 AM   #57 (permalink)
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Well the build portion of the project finally got underway this weekend. Its always good to see parts going back on after taking so many off! LoL! Here are some pics of parts before and after and some of the mods I did for clearance issues with inner cooler piping etc...
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Old 02-06-2011, 07:02 AM   #58 (permalink)
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On the backs of the coilover tower you can see where there is some radiusing to be done to match the contour of the frame. Toby said they leave this extra metal to get a good weld on the part then grind away the unwanted material to get a good fit on the frame.
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Old 02-06-2011, 07:13 AM   #59 (permalink)
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In this first pic you can see where the stock rubber mount from the stock transmission crossmember goes on Tobys plate. Its always nice to be able to reuse factory parts when there is nothing wrong with them.


On the driver side I had to cut away a lot of material off of the back of the coilover mount due to brake lines,inner cooler piping, and a lot of wiring harness being in this location. I also took the parts that I cut off and relocated to the center of the coilover mount to help re support what I had taken away. They aren't pretty like Toby's part is but they will work and they are hidden behind the tower.


This last pic is what the skid looks like bolted up with the links attached and the coilovers all burned into the frame. The skid is simple to line up the bolt holes on the frame make for simple alignment. The hardest part is picking it up!
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Old 02-15-2011, 08:14 PM   #60 (permalink)
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Well not much progress since last post... My uncle passed away this past week from a short battle with cancer Since the picture above I have gotten the stock inner c's cut off. Nailed down my pinion angle and drive shaft angle at ride height 15* for both since I will be running a cardan joint at the T-case. Total working angle will be 20* at ride height.

Putting up a couple pics of before and after of spring perch on the front Dana 60 that I shaved down to allow Toby's link bracket to be able to slide into place. I will have to modify on side of the 4 Link bracket from a 3 1/4" hole out to a 4" hole to slide over the cast center section and will have to make a small notch in it also to clear the webbing of the diff.
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Old 02-15-2011, 11:53 PM   #61 (permalink)
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Toby makes some sick parts. Wish I had the coin to have bought his kit as a kit opposed to just the control arms and track bar kit. Maybe one day.

Looks sick man cant wait to see it sitting on its own weight. With the parallel 4 link setup, I had the best luck running 3.5* caster. I used the 05 SD axle though.
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Old 02-20-2011, 06:24 PM   #62 (permalink)
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Well got the brackets and the C's welded up this weekend things are moving right along
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Old 02-20-2011, 06:34 PM   #63 (permalink)
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Fucking sweet man! Way to go choosing the XXX setup! Im very much enjoying the build thus far! Sorry about your uncle.
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Old 02-28-2011, 06:54 PM   #64 (permalink)
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looks tough... is that skidplate 3/8" steel??
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Old 02-28-2011, 08:33 PM   #65 (permalink)
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Looks nice!
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Old 03-04-2011, 06:39 AM   #66 (permalink)
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Thanks for the comments

For the rear suspension I plan to run straight bars for bottom links and triangulated uppers wide at the frame and close together at the axle. My question is has anyone used an after market/ stock fuel tank from some other application to place the tank where the spare tire would normally be on a truck of my body style? Like maybe an Avalanche tank or Suburban? If anybody has some pics of what they did or info on how they did this please post up. I also thought about having a local weld shop just make a tank to my dimensions but not sure what kind of regulations I need to follow for a fuel tank.

I know in pipe fitting vessels and tanks have to be ASME certified not sure if anything applies to a fuel tank. I know obviously it needs to be air tight and leak free and be made with good material just not sure what would be my best route. I am thinking a factory tank would be a good setup if I can find something that would fit back there. Any info would be great. Thanks!
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Old 03-04-2011, 08:34 AM   #67 (permalink)
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Thanks for the comments

For the rear suspension I plan to run straight bars for bottom links and triangulated uppers wide at the frame and close together at the axle. My question is has anyone used an after market/ stock fuel tank from some other application to place the tank where the spare tire would normally be on a truck of my body style? Like maybe an Avalanche tank or Suburban? If anybody has some pics of what they did or info on how they did this please post up. I also thought about having a local weld shop just make a tank to my dimensions but not sure what kind of regulations I need to follow for a fuel tank.

I know in pipe fitting vessels and tanks have to be ASME certified not sure if anything applies to a fuel tank. I know obviously it needs to be air tight and leak free and be made with good material just not sure what would be my best route. I am thinking a factory tank would be a good setup if I can find something that would fit back there. Any info would be great. Thanks!
I'm working on that very thing right now for my '06 van SAS (need room for the T-case). The crossmember that supports the spare is pretty large, and when compared with other rear mount fuel tanks, caused major intereference problems. So, I've decided to make my own tank. It'll be ~42 gallons (according to SolidWorks), and ~60 pounds empty made from 3/16" aluminum for the bottom, front and back, and 1/8" aluminum top. It follows the shape of the crossmember on top, and doesn't hang down below my custom bumper (also currently building), which is all much taller than the stock tow hitch. I also plan to use a header tank and Carter pump as a transfer pump. the header tank will feed the stock van fuel pump/filter module that will be relocated. This way I don't suck air off-road on inclines etc.

Another interference I noticed was the exhaust. I'm in the process of putting a 4" on and it will have to be modified to clear my tank. Of course I could have just made the tank narrower, but I wanted the tank capacity. Also, on the vans, both rear shocks run forward of the axle. I think the trucks have one going forward, one rearward, so you might need new shock mounts too.

Drop your spare and take a look. Mock up a tank with cardboard and see how it all fits (that's where I'm at right now, soon to be in aluminum).
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Old 03-08-2011, 08:32 AM   #68 (permalink)
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Thanks for the comments

For the rear suspension I plan to run straight bars for bottom links and triangulated uppers wide at the frame and close together at the axle. My question is has anyone used an after market/ stock fuel tank from some other application to place the tank where the spare tire would normally be on a truck of my body style? Like maybe an Avalanche tank or Suburban? If anybody has some pics of what they did or info on how they did this please post up. I also thought about having a local weld shop just make a tank to my dimensions but not sure what kind of regulations I need to follow for a fuel tank.

I know in pipe fitting vessels and tanks have to be ASME certified not sure if anything applies to a fuel tank. I know obviously it needs to be air tight and leak free and be made with good material just not sure what would be my best route. I am thinking a factory tank would be a good setup if I can find something that would fit back there. Any info would be great. Thanks!
evolution is moving the tanks on my suburban right now because of similar room issues. i dont have pics yet, but ill post them when i do.
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Old 03-09-2011, 10:56 PM   #69 (permalink)
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ive been wanting to do this to my rcsb duramax. like the exact same setup a four link kit using a ford axle. ive got the axle just dont have the know how on putting it under the truck. this is bad ass keep up the good work
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Old 03-10-2011, 08:12 PM   #70 (permalink)
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So I talked to Donny at Dad's seems like a great guy to deal with and he said he would have no problems with reusing my factory sending unit. He said give him the dimensions and he can build it. I told him I wanted to be atleast 24 gallons and no more than 30. He said the cost would be around 300. Nice thing is he is located in Indiana only about an hour away.

http://dadscustomintercoolertank.com/

My PSC parts made it in this week. I also got some painting done with POR15 for most of the parts for the front. No more pretty bare metal. Now just black paint covering up all the great welds
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Old 03-10-2011, 09:32 PM   #71 (permalink)
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Cool project.
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Old 03-13-2011, 08:54 AM   #72 (permalink)
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Old 03-14-2011, 09:38 AM   #73 (permalink)
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I appoligize if I missed it, but what are you doing for ABS and bub bolt patterns on the old Dana 60. I am thinking I will use a newer Ford 60 if the ABS will work like it will on a AAM 9.25. I would rather stay with a Dana if i could. How was the install on the Ried inner Cs? I have fabbed on 4x4 for years and never changed knuckles. Not worried about doing it, just curious of the process. Did you cut the tub or just remove the stock inner C?

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Old 03-14-2011, 11:24 AM   #74 (permalink)
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Thats just so damn sexy!!!
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Old 03-14-2011, 05:53 PM   #75 (permalink)
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Well for the ABS ever since I plugged in a PPE programmer( Switched to EFI Live with custom tuning) to my Dmax I haven't been able to get rid of the ABS lights on all the time going crazy so I don't plan on putting tone rings back on. Chopperman used this same axle and kit from Triple X he has a thread that shows exactly how he added tone rings.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...perman&page=23

The bolt pattern for the this axle and everything after it as far as I know for Ford Dana 60s stayed the same 8 on 6.5 until they came out with the SuperDuty's in 99'. So this axle actually has the same lug pattern that is one reason I went with this axle. I didn't like the idea of a unit bearing and the chance it goes out I would have to machine it out to fit my lug pattern. Most people say you get a better sealed up unit with unit bearings but you can't beat the strength of a taper bearing like my old axle.

I suppose its like anything else you have to figure out how and what you want to do with your setup then weigh your options and figure out what will work best for you. I knew with the lift that I have I needed 15* pinion angle and that gave me 10* of caster the wrong way so I need to turn my C's a total of 15*. I tried to heat them up and pop them off but in the end we made relief cuts into the C's and just knocked them off. I really wanted to try and save them but I just went the easy route and scrapped them. To put the new C's on just pre heat them in the oven or a grill and them slide them on be sure to make some refrence marks so you are very close for your caster because the tube absorbs the heat from the C really quickly and it will be very hard to get the to rotate.

PRO's VS CON's 78 FOrd Dana 60 and the 2005 and newer Ford Dana 60

Pros for 78
1. Same lug pattern
2. Tapered bearings
3. Steering block to correct for extra lift
4. After market inner C's and Steering Knuckles
5. Kingpin style balljoint

Pros for the 05 and newer SuperDuty 60
1. 35 spline outer stub shafts
2. ABS
3. 4 Link brackets are already on this axle from the factory but if you plan on big lift they may need to be rotated along with inner C's anyway.
4. Heavier axle tube thickness
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