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Old 02-27-2011, 04:39 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Headers Headers Headers

Can anyone reccomend a good set of headers.I am looking for the most for my money I have been out of the motor building business for quiet some time and do remember not all were created equal. There are ceremic coated very pricey then others that are reasonabaly priced.I do know I want a good flang that goes to the head and a heavy gauge tube.Just looking for a good header for my money and for the big question what all has to be motofied to install them.The headers will be going on 1995 chevrolet 3\4 ton 4x4 with a manual transmission and a 454.
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Old 02-27-2011, 05:03 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I run Hooker Competition series on my bbc Blazer and on sbc in the truggy. Nice flanges, nice all around fit, decent price. I have had no problems with them and would buy again in a heart beat. Headmans however.... dont waste your money, garbage imo.
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Old 02-27-2011, 05:12 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Hooker Super Comps are pretty good
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Old 02-27-2011, 05:17 PM   #4 (permalink)
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How bad is to change a starter or work under the truck and can they be installed with the motor in the truck?
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Old 02-27-2011, 06:02 PM   #5 (permalink)
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1- This belongs in the Newbie Forum as a simple Q about headers is not "HARDCORE OFFROAD"

2- Yes, a starter can be changed while in the truck, how much of a PITA it is depends on Make/Model. Now delete this, and take it to the newbie forum.
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Old 02-27-2011, 06:05 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I love my Hookers.

Mine fit with some wiggling with the same kind of truck but a 350. 454 might be harder.

Starter takes 5 minutes.
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Old 02-27-2011, 06:46 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Thanks for the info.Sorry if posted in the wrong place.
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Old 02-27-2011, 07:11 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I run hooker and hedmans. Over all the hookers are better built but never had any problem with my hedmans.

Skip the factory ceramic coating, get bare to save money, call local powder coaters and have them ceramic coat them for you. Depending on the brands price you can save $100 to almost $300 and get the same ceramic coating.
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Old 02-28-2011, 11:37 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I've run the same pair of Heddman's from my 78 C20 and have had them for several years in my 80 K1500.

Been dependable, no issues to complain about.
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Old 02-28-2011, 05:18 PM   #10 (permalink)
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has anyone found headers that your shackle wont hit?
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Old 02-28-2011, 07:15 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Yes the Hookers clear nicely on my ORD greasables (blazer) and the stock shit under my truggy. That was one of my biggest complaints about the Headmans. That and one tube went directly over a spark plug requiring the use of an open end wrench to change. O and they also hung below the frame rail about 1.5'' at the collecter and I bashed them on a log and a rock. *rant over*
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Old 02-28-2011, 11:27 PM   #12 (permalink)
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The flange on my headers is gonna hit my shackle bolt. I may just cut the flanges off and extend them back with pipe and put them back on so that I can still take the exhaust off if I need to. My headers hang below the frame and I hate it. Sounds like I need to look at a set of hookers.
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Old 03-01-2011, 12:10 AM   #13 (permalink)
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You get what you pay for. My buddys pace setters are rusty crap in like week after being peened and painted. My old hookers got peened, painted then peened again and I ran 'em for a year no rust. As far as ease of install and starter removal. No long tube will be a cake install. Mine needed BFH clearanced around the steering shaft. The starter, it depends on how winged your pan is..
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Old 03-01-2011, 05:45 PM   #14 (permalink)
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The only clearence problem I had on my (long tube) Hooker/BBC was the flanges hit on the ARP head bolts. (slightly taller/bigger than stock) A little bit of clearence grinding and no prob. On the sbc/Hooker they fit fine, no mods.

It's a good idea to re-route the starter wire under the motor mount.Also take out all of your spark plugs, temp sender and the starter, this will make it much easier to snake the headers up and through. At least on my trucks any way.

Damn, I'm starting to sound like a Hooker rep. or somthing pimpn' there chit on hear all the time!

Seriously though, a shitty set of headers will piss you off to no end. After all the bullshit with my Headman's I almost swore off headers completely. You get what you pay for and Hookers offer a good balance of quality and cost. Probly better out there but I haven't had the money to find out.
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Old 03-01-2011, 07:19 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Thanks for all the info hookers it will be.
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Old 03-01-2011, 07:25 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Hedman 69830's here! No fitment problems at all! Changing out the starter is CAKE! Did have a quality issue on the first set (the area where all the tubes merge together was not properly welded and had a gap), sent them back for a new set, no problem!
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Old 03-02-2011, 06:47 AM   #17 (permalink)
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ok on the subject of headders what headders work with a 52
' swap with the shackle hanger moved forward? i have 406ci in an 85 blazer and want the exaust up tight. also i need a minimum of 1 5/8 tubes and my 241 is clocked up almost flat.

any one with this combo have any input?
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Old 03-02-2011, 09:54 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by little guy View Post
ok on the subject of headders what headders work with a 52
' swap with the shackle hanger moved forward? i have 406ci in an 85 blazer and want the exaust up tight. also i need a minimum of 1 5/8 tubes and my 241 is clocked up almost flat.

any one with this combo have any input?
I smell thread hijack
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Old 03-02-2011, 10:55 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
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ok on the subject of headders what headders work with a 52
' swap with the shackle hanger moved forward? i have 406ci in an 85 blazer and want the exaust up tight. also i need a minimum of 1 5/8 tubes and my 241 is clocked up almost flat.

any one with this combo have any input?

this has already been answered in this thread. Did you read it?
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Old 03-02-2011, 07:03 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by little guy View Post
ok on the subject of headders what headders work with a 52
' swap with the shackle hanger moved forward? i have 406ci in an 85 blazer and want the exaust up tight. also i need a minimum of 1 5/8 tubes and my 241 is clocked up almost flat.

any one with this combo have any input?
On my truggy I have a Great Lakes clocking ring (208) and it is almost inside the frame rails, maybe 2-3'' below. Right now I run straight headers and dumps. I plan on putting exaust on soon and it looks like it might be a bit tight but should work. As far as the 52's'' should be allright as they arn't any farther in just forward right? I have no ideas on the tube size or part number on mine as I got them used.
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