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Old 06-07-2011, 10:52 AM   #76 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chevy_man View Post
I realize you're excited and all, but paragraphs were created for a reason, I'd sure appreciate it if you used them!
Yea. No way in hell I'm reading that. No offense dude; you have to understand how ridiculous it is trying to read that. My brain went on strike immediately.
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Old 06-07-2011, 12:20 PM   #77 (permalink)
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my measurements with 35" tires:

Side of Frame under the Pass rear door. 22"


Side of Frame under the Pass front door. 23"


Rear bumper: 32 1/2"


Front Cross-member. 27"
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Old 06-07-2011, 06:38 PM   #78 (permalink)
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The measurement to the bottom of the front crossmember you did is the same on mine with 33's but keep in mind the bottom of my crossmember is flush with the bottom of my frame because of the notching I did
As for my rear sitting so much lower but still looks level I haven't the slightest clue?23
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Old 07-19-2011, 08:10 PM   #79 (permalink)
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wow its been a long time since ive updated, crazy 80 hour weeks and a trip south over the week of the 4th have put a big damper on getting any work done what so ever. well enough of the chit chat, you guys seem to like looking at pictures instead of hearing me talk to here we go
couple flexing pictures to measure to front shaft and shocks (still 2wd as i need front lockouts and driveshaft) lots more flex left but its all i could do with junk tires and 2wd


out with the junk 33's and in with the junk 38's (for $50 for the set of 4 i couldnt pass them up until i can afford a new set of 38's)


and with the 38's come my not so sawzall skills



and to stop those pigs i did the ruffstuff specialties 9" disc conversion


the kit is supposed to utilize an 89 ford bronco rotor and a 73-87 chevy half ton caliper and pads. got the bronco rotors and discovered the rear axle hub flange, was too big to fit inside of the rotors. after a call to ruffstuff i found out that the weather was much nicer in Cali where they are, and that i had an axle that was only used in some trucks in some years that used a bigger flange, and i should try a set of rotors from a mid 90's dodge
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Old 07-19-2011, 08:12 PM   #80 (permalink)
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10 pics per post, WTF!!! you guys are wanting more pictures, pirates wanting, what gives??? sorting out proportioning valve/master cylinder issues now. im going to be running a proportining valve out of a 91 fullsize chevy half ton as well as the master cylinder from the same vehicle, just need to get a new master cylinder as the used one i was trying to use is junk. then i moved onto shocks, not much there. remover the stock cross member (someone please remind me that chassis rivets SUCK and are better off left alone. used a couple pieces of 2" .188" wall tube and made a couple new crossmembers for shocks/evap cansiter, whatever else i damn well please. and its pretty cool, i was able to utilize the stock shocks from the rear of the blazer, so when it comes time for new shocks i wont have to trade me left nut for a set

thats all for now. i still need to figure out what i want to do about a front shaft and what i want to run for hubs, and then measure for my front shocks, but its almost woodsable!!!

Last edited by snopro803; 07-19-2011 at 08:14 PM.
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Old 07-30-2011, 07:50 PM   #81 (permalink)
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steering

i am in the prosses of buildin a 91 4 door blazer i toom it all the way down to bare frame (nothin on it ) and put full sze axles d44 front and d60 rear a bb 454 tbi and a 400 turbo trans with a np203 t-case i have almost everything done but have ran into a big problem idk how to do the steering ... ic that u used a draglink on urs where did u get the knuckle for the pass side .. ty for ur help
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Old 08-01-2011, 09:47 AM   #82 (permalink)
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well i flexed my truck today to measure for the front drive shaft. on top of being pretty impressed with the flex it had (41" and there was still more to lift, but the fron was dropped out all the way), i was puzzled with what i was getting for drive shaft measurements. as you can see from previous pitures, the front springs, being 52's, flex quite a bit. that being said, with my left front stuffed i was getting 30", and with the left front dropped out i was only getting 33"? therefore, my front drive shaft only has 3" of travel. this did not make a whole lot of sence to me, and short of my tape lying to me, wondering if anyone else may see something im missing? ooh and as you can see, i got the front shocks in finally. in there now is a set of stock rear shocks from an '06 chevy half ton. they are 1.5" too long, so i must order a new set. but for state inspection purposes they will work just fine

Last edited by snopro803; 08-01-2011 at 09:51 AM.
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Old 08-01-2011, 01:03 PM   #83 (permalink)
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I have 56's in front and noticed something similar. I thought I was just dumb.
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Old 08-01-2011, 07:01 PM   #84 (permalink)
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Ha, I have seen a lot of "rti" ramps before, but that's a new one!
Rig looks good too, nice job.
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Old 08-01-2011, 07:34 PM   #85 (permalink)
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looks good buddy!!! can't wait to see it go!! got some work still to do to mine but i got 2 months left to finish her up
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Old 08-02-2011, 07:53 AM   #86 (permalink)
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Your lucky. With my sas'd s10 I have to have adrive shaft made with 7" of travel. 27" collapsed and 34" fully drooped.
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Old 08-14-2011, 06:37 PM   #87 (permalink)
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well i finally got some more to update. i got my front driveshaft made. i was able to hack up a shaft from an '87 K5 to fit. it has 6" of travel in the shaft which works perfect. when lengthening i made sure to leave an extra half inch (needed 31 compressed, went with 30.5) so at full droop its still got 1.5" of spline engagement. The K5 had a double cardan joint at the top stock. with its limited working angle i eliminated it, running a single joint at each end. i stretched the tube by i believe 7". anyway here it is, along with my modified y-pipe. the y-pipe is just temporary as 91extsas and i will be making a custom true dual exhaust, manifolds back





ohh, and a little side note. after i put the front shaft in i HAD to go try the 4wd out. I TOTALLY regret building a d44 already. not even out of the yard. i messed around on a couple small rocks but nothing articulating, so i decided to climb a tree


then i was messing around on a small trail on my property, nothing crazy. i was in 4 hi IDLING, i burped it over a root. tire fell into a 4-6" hole, i burped it to come out of the hole and hear a loud POP, then 3 wheel peel, wait, im fully locked. figured i broke a hub because i wasnt too fond of them putting them in. back to the garage and pull the hub off, look at what i find!!

it appears as if ive broken a stub shaft, WTF!!!! build a 60 with a set of 4.88's and weld it and figure out how to convert it to 5x5.5, or convert the rear to 8x6.5. or a set of chromo 44's, and still run the risk of weak u joints and ball joints? opinions? i know the answer im going to get giving the crowd im asking haha

Last edited by snopro803; 08-14-2011 at 06:40 PM.
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Old 08-14-2011, 06:57 PM   #88 (permalink)
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its a toss up on which axle man, I am running a 44 with chromolys BUT, I already had wheels tires and gears when I bought the axles. I mean your lookin at 6 ish for a set of chromolys or a grand ish for a front 60. The thing I have learned to like about the 44 is its lighter and has more clearance.
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Old 08-14-2011, 07:23 PM   #89 (permalink)
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i can get a 60 cheap, thing is it needs to be rebuilt, and regeared to match the rear. and then i also need to find out how to either convert the front to a 5x5.5" lug pattern which i dont think is possible, or i need to figure out how to convert the rear end to a 8x6.5" lug pattern. i figure $350 for a gear set and a master install kit, another $150 to rebuild the axle (shaft ujoints, wheel bearings) and prolly $200-$300 to buy the 60, so ill be 700-800 into that and all the time it takes setting up the gears. i figured if replaced the stub shaft which i think i have one i could get 500-600 for my axle beings as is EVERYTHING is brand new. or just the chromo shafts, but still worry about the weak axle ujoints and weak ball joints? what to do?!!?!
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Old 08-14-2011, 07:27 PM   #90 (permalink)
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the ford hp d60 is a direct bolt in hahaha just some more encouregment buddy
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Old 10-03-2011, 05:50 PM   #91 (permalink)
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wow my thread feels neglected. moneys ben tight lately as ive been in between jobs. finally got the stub shaft situation figured out. the root of the problem stem'ed from my abortion special 44/10b knuckle set up. I also got my 2lb residual pressure valve inline for the rear brakes. a buddy called last weekend, burried in the woods with nobody to come pull him out. after pulling him out of the woods saturday i was itching to get out there. all my friends $h!t is broke, so i conviced a couple buddies who only had 2 wheel to go out, not taking into consideration all the rain we had. i ended up pulling them through the woods all day, but it was still a good time. didnt try anything too crazy because it was a shake down run, and if i got burried there was nothing there that could pull me out




this hole usually isnt deep, but some beavers, along with all the rain, have made it quite the unexpected hole


i ended up pulling both the other trucks through this hole to keep going, one at a time. knowing they would get burried, on the way back i jokingly made the suggestion, we should just chain the two together and ill pull them both out together. i heard someone in the back seat say "ya right, like that'l fuckin happen", OK, game on!!! the tan blazer had one wheel peel, and the ford was not running, in gear, and lost the clutch slave as he dropped into the puddle, locking his rear tires up!!
<iframe width="425" height="349" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/GbLbJD0_U6A?hl=en&fs=1" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>


edit: for some reason the video link isnt working, here is the direct link tandem mud pit tow.MPG - YouTube

Last edited by snopro803; 10-03-2011 at 05:52 PM.
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Old 10-04-2011, 12:56 AM   #92 (permalink)
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Nice work .
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Old 10-20-2011, 06:30 PM   #93 (permalink)
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its been a little time since ive updated on here. i havent been doing a whole lot of work on this thing lately. But last weekend silverGT with his sas 4.3 vortec 4runner and I got our rigs out for our first real run. we had alot of fun. there was some breakage, but all in all a good time. i ended up popping a hub ripping a clam (term for a $hit box truck) up over and off of a rock, while also breaking my tranny mount. silverGT ended up popping either both hubs, both front shafts, or a combo of the two. but we still made it to the top of one of the more difficult trails around here with some amazing views






i think i see a stuck and broken yoter

and granted its not the rubicon, the video doesnt do this hill any justice
http://youtu.be/BEGiJkXJshk
a little 2wd flexy action

and lastly i know your dying to see my "in the woods, mickey mouse engineered" tranny mount fix to get me out

what my tranny mount is supposed to be is a rubber puck on the underside of the plate, with a rubber puck and 1" aluminum spacer on the top side of the plate, with a grade 8 3/8" through bolt into the tranny. yanking the clam off the rock i sheared those two bolts. i tried putting the spacers back in and just strapping it back down but because the spacers and pucks were so small they kept bucking and falling out, making my tranny fall back down onto the crossmember. so here was the fix haha
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Old 10-20-2011, 07:52 PM   #94 (permalink)
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Looks good. If you had mentioned 38s a long time ago someone would have advised you to go straight to a 60 front lol.

Dont bother with chromos for the 44. On 38s you'll still pop them and the weight of 38s is still pushing the limits of the un-upgradeable balljoints.

That being said there are 5lug hubs for dana 60s out there but having 8 lug shafts made for your 9in would be MUCH cheaper.

I think you're going to realize that once you step up to a 60 front youll want a 1 ton rear like a 14bolt or dana 70 to match.
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Old 10-21-2011, 06:23 PM   #95 (permalink)
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you guys all suck, and your going to make me make the decision that may make my GF leave me for all the money i spend haha. i have a huge pile of scrap and a parts rig im scraping monday, the yard im bringing it to just so happens to have an @$$ load of HP KP60's and 14 bolts kicking around that i bet i could get for an even trade. and with the little bit of wheeling ive done, im somewhat disapointed in my choice of gear ratio. i dont feel it low enough, with 38's it feels like a stock pick up in 4lo. If i went with tons ide be looking more towards some like 5:29's. the original plan for this thing was to be able to drive it to the trail, that is yet to happen, and now im not so sure about driving it to the trail. i would be welding the rear, no one will talk me out of it, my mind isnt made up on the front, lock-rite or weld? with the wheeling ive done with my ratcheting front AND rear lockers i have yet to hear either of them ratchet, and have no complaints about steering so to speak of? just keep in mind, off road only, no road use!!!
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Old 10-26-2011, 07:10 PM   #96 (permalink)
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Hey dink, I was never stuck and it didnt break untill after that pic!

I think your going to realize how much that front locker acually locks and unlocks once you weld the front. Oh and 5:29s are for toyotas, You want 5:38s, Just sayin. The damage report was, RH Inner cage on the birf was cracked in 4 places and stripped the splines on the inner shaft and the LH side Inner cage cracked in about 6 places and split the whole outside of the birf open about 1/4 inch. Hubs, gears, and locker are all fine. On a side note though, My brand new grizzly is junk! One of the side gears was machined to big and the axle just floats around in there instead of splining in! Thats a whole other story though.

Oh and just to rub it in, I can drive mine to the trail at 70mph with no problems at all and still go where you go
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Old 10-27-2011, 03:56 AM   #97 (permalink)
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Holy $hit your open in the front too lol.with some less than mint radial 36's. And people have threads on here about wanting to throw yota fronts under s10's with the 4.3. I don't really mind trailering for now because when, not if, when I break something that prevents me from driving it home I only need to get it back to the trailer. I don't know what im doing about axles yet. A HP KP 60 is seeming impossible to find for under 1000. Im almost considering a Chevy 60 with a 241 tcase and the KB conversions speed adapter?
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Old 10-27-2011, 07:24 AM   #98 (permalink)
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i just read through all of this, and i have to say that is one ugly rig and not my cup of tea what so ever. BUT it seems to work very well so i like it


and the bright green is tits
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Old 10-27-2011, 08:29 AM   #99 (permalink)
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i just read through all of this, and i have to say that is one ugly rig and not my cup of tea what so ever. BUT it seems to work very well so i like it


and the bright green is tits
YA there Deffinetly are better looking rigs out there. I have an 01 ext. Cab I was going to do but it seems like we've got 5x the people who want to go into the woods to the amount of rigs we've got so the full second row of seating is awfully nice. I. Still think It looks pretty badass but my pick up would have looked better. When I build a set of tons I'm going to run atleast a 38x14.40, I think that may help the looks as well. I've also considered the avalanche chop to the back but we will wait on that
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Old 10-27-2011, 03:32 PM   #100 (permalink)
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Holy $hit your open in the front too lol.with some less than mint radial 36's. And people have threads on here about wanting to throw yota fronts under s10's with the 4.3. I don't really mind trailering for now because when, not if, when I break something that prevents me from driving it home I only need to get it back to the trailer. I don't know what im doing about axles yet. A HP KP 60 is seeming impossible to find for under 1000. Im almost considering a Chevy 60 with a 241 tcase and the KB conversions speed adapter?

Nope, Lockrite in the front and STILL open in the rear. The 4:88s are like night and day though!
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