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#1 (permalink) |
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_Differential 'Dozer
Join Date: Jul 2005
Member # 51113
Location: Princeton, IL
Posts: 568
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One Solution to Frame Cracks Around Steering Box
After reading about some guys having trouble with cracks even with the weld-in frame repair, I thought I'd post this up. This was my solution after more than a little "by God I'll fix this fawkin' thing once and for all." Yeah, it's overkill but I had the materials on hand and I didn't want to ever have to worry about it again. It's been pounded pretty hard for the last three years (way harder than it ever was before the repair), and it's still holding fine, tight as ever. I thought about adding an ORD type brace to the crossmember, but decided it probably wasn't necessary. Wouldn't hurt though. Think it's too much work and I've got WAAAAY too much time on my hands? Post a pic of YOUR big idea!
That's not full hydro. ![]() ![]() BTW, please don't nit-pick the welding. I can do what needs to be done and I can assure you it's strong but I'm not a pro and don't claim to be. This was done with 6011 rod so it's not gonna look like 7018 anyway. Truck details: '76 3/4-ton frame, D60, ORD X-over, 35" mud radials.
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'76 K20, 400, NV4500, LoMax 205, 14b/Detroit/discs, D60, 4.56s '78 K30, 400, TH400, 203, 14b, D60, 4.10s '79 Cherokee, 360, T18, D20, W.T.D44s |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2010
Member # 163990
Location: Spokane Valley, Washington
Posts: 278
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not bad at all. it looks like a good solution for those who cant box it.
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67' Jeep Gladiator/84' K20 frame, 60/14, 383/465/205, 52/56 spring swap shackle flip, 37's |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Granite Guru
Join Date: Jan 2010
Member # 150680
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 763
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Where is the picture
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75 k20 350/350/203, 14bff, dana 44, 63"/52" 39.5 tsl My Build Chevy Build Thread List |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2010
Member # 163990
Location: Spokane Valley, Washington
Posts: 278
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start of the second sentence click the word "this" for the photo album
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...6&l=0b3478c168
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67' Jeep Gladiator/84' K20 frame, 60/14, 383/465/205, 52/56 spring swap shackle flip, 37's Last edited by 383_Gladiator; 03-14-2011 at 09:10 PM. |
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#6 (permalink) |
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mega hack!!
Join Date: Jul 2009
Member # 139150
Location: california: the sue me state!
Posts: 1,860
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very nice
i think that would eliminate any future problems.
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74 chev tbi 350 sm465/203/205 d60 ARB/14b detroit 56's/64's on 40's! ![]() /forum/chevy/933618-new-old-black-getting-1-ton-makeover.html |
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#9 (permalink) | |
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_Differential 'Dozer
Join Date: Jul 2005
Member # 51113
Location: Princeton, IL
Posts: 568
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Quote:
Thanks. According to my wife, I make a lot of "things" out in the shop. ![]() Yeah, it was but I was on summer break from college at the time and had more time than money. It took the better part of a weekend, but I work slow and after finals, a little shop time suited me just fine. Plus, I wanted to build something that would tie the weak spot together considering winch pulls (as you might have guessed from the design of this "thing," my truck is heavy ). Surely overkill, but I can live with that.
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'76 K20, 400, NV4500, LoMax 205, 14b/Detroit/discs, D60, 4.56s '78 K30, 400, TH400, 203, 14b, D60, 4.10s '79 Cherokee, 360, T18, D20, W.T.D44s |
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#11 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2008
Member # 122868
Posts: 351
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Your welding is atrocious!
Only kidding. On a serious note, that looks to be a good solution for the the thinner frames. 6011 is not ideal in the least, but it should not spall if it went in hot. Remember people, try to match your filler metal of choice with the base metal. JOKER
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I left the 4x4 world a while ago... Thinking of going back. |
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#12 (permalink) | ||
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_Differential 'Dozer
Join Date: Jul 2005
Member # 51113
Location: Princeton, IL
Posts: 568
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Quote:
Thanks; I like it.Quote:
Oh, it went in hot... Educate me; what's wrong with 6011? The brace is made from plain hot-rolled mild steel, and I highly doubt the truck frame is better than 60,000 PSI. I think I read once they are something like 50,000 PSI and they aren't heat treated (someone correct me if they know different). I considered 7018 for the frame but with the brace I figured it was unnecessary, 6011 still being stronger than the frame material, and I've never had a weld fail, 6011 included. What am I missing (like I said, I'm no pro metalworker)?
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'76 K20, 400, NV4500, LoMax 205, 14b/Detroit/discs, D60, 4.56s '78 K30, 400, TH400, 203, 14b, D60, 4.10s '79 Cherokee, 360, T18, D20, W.T.D44s |
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#14 (permalink) |
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POOPSMITH
Join Date: Mar 2007
Member # 88383
Location: highland IN
Posts: 4,213
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when i was younger and before i really knew how to work on anything i had the frame crack on a daily driver that i didnt offroad. i pulled it all apart and towbarred it down the street to a local semi truck place, they basically filled in the whole area with weld. held up for the 2 more years i owned the truck, dont really know if thats the best way to go about it but it fixed it
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#17 (permalink) |
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_Differential 'Dozer
Join Date: Jul 2005
Member # 51113
Location: Princeton, IL
Posts: 568
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Ha! No higher praise than that! ![]() Actually, I'd half consider it if I had a MIG welder (for sake of speed). I've still got the template and it wouldn't take that long to build just the brace (minus all the on-the-fly R+D), particularly if I rigged up some sort of jig. Still, I never have time to finish half my projects as it is so I wouldn't look for it any time soon. Probably why I haven't made my million yet... ![]()
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'76 K20, 400, NV4500, LoMax 205, 14b/Detroit/discs, D60, 4.56s '78 K30, 400, TH400, 203, 14b, D60, 4.10s '79 Cherokee, 360, T18, D20, W.T.D44s |
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