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#126 (permalink) | ||
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Zeus of the Sluice
Join Date: Jul 2007
Member # 96153
Location: Sun Valley, Ca
Posts: 3,155
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Quote:
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#127 (permalink) |
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Granite Guru
Join Date: Nov 2008
Member # 123101
Location: La Crescenta
Posts: 618
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damn dude... you've been busy... looking good ... I
party my house monday..
__________________
85 Yota shortbed, 5.29's,detroit, 6 shooters,,30splines, spool, duals w/ 4.7's, beadlocks,37 Pitbulls... still not done ------------------------------ 2003 F250 Crewcab sb v10 |
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#128 (permalink) |
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TANK
Join Date: Mar 2009
Member # 131367
Location: UH-UH
Posts: 393
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if you do replace the s10 fan the hhr electric fan is about $60 at rockauto and has been known to keep 460's cool.
love what you have done with the dodge and the chebuggy. glad you did a build thread for the rebuild. |
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#130 (permalink) |
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Zeus of the Sluice
Join Date: Jul 2007
Member # 96153
Location: Sun Valley, Ca
Posts: 3,155
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Pics of the Blazer with the front at 18" droop, from full stuff. And a before and after of my old axle that is going to a new home, after it gets checked out and straightened (if needed). I also got my Front DS to clear and spin freely at 18" of travel
. I think it has a bit more so I think that I will not have a problem running 19" of front and rear travel.
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#131 (permalink) |
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Zeus of the Sluice
Join Date: Jul 2007
Member # 96153
Location: Sun Valley, Ca
Posts: 3,155
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Ok so let me explain how the drive shaft is working. I posted a pic of a sketch but I will go into detail. At full droop the pinion is pointed up at about 10*, while having about 2* of caster. Which is fine because the way my links are, it just gets more. I think it gets to about 10* at ride height. The T-case points up at about 6*. So what I did is made a midship shaft of 11". Made that -6* into a 12*, so now my midship points down at 12*. Yes it got shorter but more importantly the angles now all point to each other. Buy doing that I have 18* at the T-case 23* in the middle and 25* at the axle. Now the T-case will always be at the 18* which is fine (I think), but the rest will just get better. I will have to fab a mount for the midship bearing but I will do that later. I now know that the DS will work so I can get back to worken on my tubing. Oh my old DS was 38" with a 1350 CV and a 1350 at the axle. Now I have a 1350 at the T-case and 1410's in the middle and at the axle, with an 11' midship shaft and a 27" front section.
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#132 (permalink) |
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Zeus of the Sluice
Join Date: Jul 2007
Member # 96153
Location: Sun Valley, Ca
Posts: 3,155
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Oh I should also be getting my radiator back soon, it's being redone. They are making a fan shroud and mounts, the fan shroud will hold two taurus fans.
I'll post some pics as soon as I get it. I'm having it made because I do not own a TIG, nor am I good at TIGing. So I will gladly pay the professionals to do the work that I cannot. Plus TIG welds just look cool and I need some on my Blazer.
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#133 (permalink) |
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TANK
Join Date: Mar 2009
Member # 131367
Location: UH-UH
Posts: 393
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thanks for the pm
here are some more specs and a part # for the hhr fan. it has measurement and outputs for the taurus fan and the markiiiv fan as well. this is from a build for a ranger with a 460 in it. http://www.460ford.com/forum/showthread.php?t=135721 hope it helps. Last edited by bf; 06-29-2011 at 07:57 AM. |
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#134 (permalink) |
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...
Join Date: Mar 2011
Member # 186604
Location: Thibodaux, Louisiana
Posts: 937
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I've got to quit staring at your pictures of the frame modifications and panhard rod mounting. My truck isn't close to rolling under its own power, and you have me wanting to redo my panhard rod setup already.
Thanks a lot...it's not like I didn't already have too much other stuff to do... |
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#135 (permalink) |
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Zeus of the Sluice
Join Date: Jul 2007
Member # 96153
Location: Sun Valley, Ca
Posts: 3,155
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Okay so a little more progress over the long weekend. Now I'm scratching my head trying to figure out where/how I'm going to mount the petals. And if I'm going to build or reuse the stock clutch petal. I do have a few idea's running threw my head though.
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#136 (permalink) |
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Zeus of the Sluice
Join Date: Jul 2007
Member # 96153
Location: Sun Valley, Ca
Posts: 3,155
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You can see in the background my new truck. Its a rust brown pile of shit that has no motor trans or t-case, it has a SF 9.5" 14b in the rear and a 8-lug 10 bolt in the front. But it's a 1975' so that means NO SMOG.
It's going to sit for a while.
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#139 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2007
Member # 98655
Location: Alta Loma, Ca.
Posts: 1,816
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A 75 cab on a later chassis or an axle swap was performed. Should have had a 14 bolt FF and an external hub 44 front. I know it won't matter much down the road. The Blazer (or what is left of it) is looking good, gonna be pretty nice when finished.
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#140 (permalink) | |
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Zeus of the Sluice
Join Date: Jul 2007
Member # 96153
Location: Sun Valley, Ca
Posts: 3,155
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Quote:
I found the VIN stamping on my Blazer (on accident ) I wonder if the trucks has it in the same spot? It was on top of the frame on the pass side just behind the shackle mount for the front springs (passenger feet area). Kind of pain if you had to prove it to the CHP. Would they want to remove the cab to see or ????One question I had: If I remove the cab and replace it with a different one (Toyota for example) and kept a Chevy drivetrain. So the only thing not from the original truck was the cab, can I still register it as a 75' Chevy? |
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#142 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2007
Member # 86890
Location: Morongo Valley
Posts: 169
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Looks good, I really like the stub shaft idea. I hope you plan on gusseting or plating that lower link, that shock will eventually bend that and or wear that heim out.
Promise us you will get a video of this monster in the whoops I wanna see you pass a rail with this pig!
__________________
1972 k20 built 355/350/205 ho72 410 w/detroit. |
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#143 (permalink) | ||
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Zeus of the Sluice
Join Date: Jul 2007
Member # 96153
Location: Sun Valley, Ca
Posts: 3,155
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Quote:
Quote:
I cannot wait, I'm hoping to be able to take it out for Turkey day at Glamis. Last edited by K5runner@hotmail.com; 07-06-2011 at 09:13 PM. |
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#144 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2007
Member # 98655
Location: Alta Loma, Ca.
Posts: 1,816
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I thought the trucks had the vin on the drivers side frame rail, not sure though.
The DMV website has the explainaton under the "How to register a custom or antique vehicle in California". Antique has to be 39 years old or older (1972) Custom vehicle requirements looks like it would be easier to keep it a 1975 some how. |
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#145 (permalink) |
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Zeus of the Sluice
Join Date: Jul 2007
Member # 96153
Location: Sun Valley, Ca
Posts: 3,155
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Okay so I got a little more work done. Still no camera but I hope to get it tomorrow. I put a tube that goes over the motor, right in front of the throttle body, for more support. I got the front tube section welded up and started on the upper shock mounts. I think that I can finish the shock mounts on Mon evening and hopefully on Tues begin to cycle everything. I hope everything goes together well.
Then its on to the radiator mounts, I think I should be able to get my radiator tomorrow. After the radiator mounts its the firewall and dash. I always wanted a dash on this truck. What I' thinking about now (trying to stay ahead so that I don't have to wait for parts) is the brakes. I want to run a turning brake, like the one on the buggies. But since I have a Detroit and may end up with a spool back there, is there a point on a twin lever? I think that a single lever single action will be fine. What do you guys think? I already have a ball valve that's rated for a ridiculous amount of psi, something like 20,000psi of steam, gas, water, oil, etc. That I will be using for an E-brake. Got to love McMaster-Carr. |
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#146 (permalink) |
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Zeus of the Sluice
Join Date: Jul 2007
Member # 96153
Location: Sun Valley, Ca
Posts: 3,155
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Okay, so I had to redo the shock mounts, lower and upper. The axle moves left to right too much to use the lower links as shock mounts. The shocks are going to be mounted to the axle and I have to figure out where the bumps will go. Probably on top of the truss.
I have it all mocked up and cycled everything finally clears. But I'm down to about 17" of up and down travel. But more importantly at full stuff F/R are about level. I was told that that would help with shock tuning. I got the wilwood petals tacked in, and need to start the clutch petal. I decided to keep it as a manual system. So I will be making a linkage to connect everything. I got my radiator home on Tues, but just got back in town yesterday. Man this radiator looks ![]() I'm going to be running 2 Taurus fans, on a 4" core radiator, a Nascar take off. I had a new shroud build as well as a cradle for the fans, new 1.5" upper hose barb and a new 1.75" lower hose barb. There longer to stick through the shroud. He also added a billet cap fitting and mounts. So I will take a bunch of pics and post up my progress. I should be able to crack down on it all weekend long. |
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#147 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2005
Member # 51243
Location: Tropical Paradise
Posts: 3,410
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man I love the shit you do to this rig.
I wish I had a place to work on mine...........
__________________
[COLOR="Lime"][B]1999 Chevy K3500, 5.7/4L80E/14FF/stock/stock/stock[/B][/COLOR] |
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