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Old 08-16-2012, 10:22 PM   #1 (permalink)
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69 F100 - Desert Play Truck

So I've been postponing publishing a public build thread for long enough. I'm getting to the point where getting more opinions and input on what i'm doing & where I'm headed will be incredibly valuable. So here it is.

Around november of last year I picked up a 69 f100 camper special which had no engine, a 4 speed transmission, but it stopped, steered and rolled. Then I found an engine trans combo in the form of a 429 big block and a C6. Did a rebuild, put em in. Built a cab cage. started an engine cage. now i'm in the middle of the front suspension build. That's the short of it. Pics are worth a thousand words anyway:








autofab mounts:


edit: sorry guys I moved a bunch of stuff around in my photobucket and I dont remember what pics I had up. If there's something missing that you remember seeing / still want to see, send me a message.
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Old 08-16-2012, 10:31 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Please take pics of the engine mounts when installed.

Also what are you using for headers?
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Old 08-16-2012, 10:34 PM   #3 (permalink)
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cage:









Not stoked on the rear seat mounts. I have a new plan to replace those.
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Old 08-16-2012, 10:37 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Old 08-16-2012, 10:44 PM   #5 (permalink)
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And then i found out that my beams weren't actually bent like I was told (that'll teach me to believe a guy about used desert parts). So I spent the past few days working on adding in some lift / ride height to the beams.

Here's how I left the truck tonight:
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Old 08-16-2012, 10:50 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Frank,

The autofab motor mounts were remarkably painless to install. John (autofab guy) did a pretty good job lining up the 385 series big block to the f100 frame using existing holes. I'll take some detail pictures tomorrow.

I bought a set of heddman long tube headers, but they ended up not clearing the passenger side frame rail, so I had to do some clearance-ing with a grinder. I'm not worried about strength because I'll be adding so many tubes in that area with the engine cage build. If I was going to do it again, I would spend the $$ and get some headers that were specifically built for a big block ford in an f100 frame.

Glad to hear that you're still putting some effort into the Tank. I love that truck and I took some ideas from it when I first got the truck... we actually have some mutual friends from the poly performance/polygoats circle, so i've been able to see it in person.
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Old 08-16-2012, 11:02 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Cool. Rob was talking about messing with the motor mounts in the tank.

It has mystery headers that are more rust than metal.

Your truck looks good, have fun!
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Old 08-19-2012, 12:01 AM   #8 (permalink)
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as promised, here are some shots of the installed autofab motor mounts




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Old 08-19-2012, 10:42 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Looks great! 67-72 and 73 to 79 Fords are my favorite trucks
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Old 08-19-2012, 10:47 PM   #10 (permalink)
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as promised, here are some shots of the installed autofab motor mounts
thanks
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Old 08-20-2012, 04:07 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Are you planning on using glass or lexan?

Nice fab work
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Old 08-21-2012, 10:52 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Are you planning on using glass or lexan?

Nice fab work
Thank you. I guess I never did tell you guys what my plan was for the truck. For your question, I was planning on glass but lexan never even crossed my mind. I'll have to look into that.

The plan for the truck is to build a capable play truck, with no race intentions. (at least for this first iteration) This is my first full-size truck build (I did SAE baja before this) so I'm learning a ton as things go along. The front suspension, as you can probably see is to run 1 ton beams, cut for lift and plated for strength. custom radius arms on heims, coilovers. Full cage. The rear will have a 3-link with a speedway engineering full floater 9" housing which I bought trussed and tabbed for a 3 link. The tires are 35s.

Got the radius arms put together tonight. After my beam fiasco, I'm a little "gun" shy about fully welding things until it's all together. So these still have a bunch of plating and welding until they're 100% but in this state they'll be substantial enough to let me move forward with steering and shock placement. Once the front suspension geometry is completed and tacked into place, I'll weld it all up and finish the gusseting & plating.





I'm going to be moving on to doing the crossover steering next and I wanted to get some input. What do you guys think about picking up a set of pre-built or WIY swingers (giant motorsports, for example) and doing the links and mounts myself to match this application?

Also, any thoughts about the best steering box to try and get for crossover? I have a junkyard trip in my future and all I can think to look for is a box that mounts to the inside of the frame rail, extends down far enough, has a relatively flat pitman arm, and has provisions for power steering. Any input?
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Old 08-22-2012, 12:11 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Are you doing front steer or staying rear steer?
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Old 08-22-2012, 02:02 PM   #14 (permalink)
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front steer. I have the uprights from a 1980 f150 which are the sought-after 1 inch kingpin, 5 on 5.5 lug pattern, front steer.
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Old 08-22-2012, 10:51 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Subscribed. Good work!!
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Old 08-23-2012, 07:13 AM   #16 (permalink)
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I love F-100 prerunners! Look great.
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Old 08-28-2012, 09:27 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Subscribed. Good work!!
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I love F-100 prerunners! Look great.
Thanks guys.

Went to the junkyard and picked up a steering box out of a 91 f250. it met all of my requirements, but we'll see how good of a choice it was.

When i was cycling my front suspension, the tires would hit part of the body mount near full bump while turning, so I ended up doing some plate work to hang the cab off the cage. As with many things... the first step to improving is admitting your weakness. I suck at sheet metal. I'm not thrilled with many of the joints of the plates to the body. I think part of it was the general fit of it, part of it may have been my lack of experience welding with thin materials, and another part is a lack of experience working with sheet and all the tricks that go along with it. I'll be re-doing many of the plate work down the road.

The reason I'm telling you guys this stuff is because I talked to a guy at work who used to do sheet metal paneling for race bikes and he mentioned that the best way to do it is to have the plate meet tangent to the tube you're working with and on the other end of the plate, round off the edge to basically "flare" the edge that meets with the body (or other sheet metal panel). This flare / rounded edge gives you a point to focus your weld (and therefore, your heat) into the now thicker plate and it should result in a cleaner weld. No more trigger welding to body panels. I'll report back on that process after I try it.

After the plate stuff was done I took my trusty plasma cutter and cut off the body mounts and a bunch of sheet metal down in the tire area. Way better. no pics of that yet, sorry.

Lastly, steering swingers are started. on with the pics.



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Old 08-30-2012, 08:30 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Subscribed for the luv of old skool Fords!
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Old 09-10-2012, 07:36 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Nice work, but what you started with looks to be a F-250. Those are definately 3/4 ton hubcaps and your later photo shows an 8 lug wheel up front.
No worries though, you can hang 1/2 running gear in that truck easily.
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Old 09-11-2012, 07:54 AM   #20 (permalink)
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old skool fords rule!




great build! can't wait for more updates
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Old 09-11-2012, 09:44 AM   #21 (permalink)
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If your truck was mine I'd keep it like the one above. 3/4 ton for work or play.
That unusual 2 tone green color combo is very close to the color combo my Dad had on a 1957 Pontiac Safari wagon. I've only seen about 5 Ford trucks in that color combo, all 73 to about 76.
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Old 09-11-2012, 01:23 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Nice work, but what you started with looks to be a F-250. Those are definately 3/4 ton hubcaps and your later photo shows an 8 lug wheel up front.
No worries though, you can hang 1/2 running gear in that truck easily.
The licensing is all done as an f100, but the rear end is a dana 60 and the front end was 7/8 kingpin with disc brakes (half ton?). Weird. Doesn't matter to me, though, because I put my own set of strengthened 1 ton beams up front and i'll be running a full floater 9" in the back.
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Old 09-11-2012, 01:48 PM   #23 (permalink)
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my 76' F250 came with 7/8 kingpins and a dana 61. I got rid of the 61 and now have a 60 in it's place. Some F250 were LD's, light duty's. 1/2 ton beams and 8-lug hubs with a single disc brake, not the dual you will see with 1" beams. But you got it figured out with the new stuff, truck looks stout bud!
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Old 09-14-2012, 01:45 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Maybe someone was converting to 3/4 ton. Easy way to avoid weight fees. Buy a 1/2 ton truck, swap 3/4 running gear and springs in it and pay 1/2 ton weight registration.

There were several guys that had some nice 3/4 ton pre-runners back in the mid to late seventies early eighties. Of course back then any Ford with filled beams, dual shocks, a locker, some mags and a set of Fun and Muds or Armstrong Tru Tracs was a suitable pre-runner.

Now days pre-runners are nicer than 70's race trucks.
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Old 09-17-2012, 03:32 PM   #25 (permalink)
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(setting up) crossover steering can go burn in the 7th ring of Hell.

It took me roughly a week's worth of work and something like 5 different setups to get a geometry I'm okay with. Next step, mount steering box, recheck, tighten up everything with final hardware & bearings, recheck, mount shocks, recheck, convert to steel, recheck. welding party.






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