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#1 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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High Misalignment joints/TRE Help?
We are building a light weight tube frame buggy at the moment with 4 wheel independant suspension - which is why I figured here was the best place to ask!
I don't want to run heim or rose type joints as they don't last long in mud - and we have a lot of mud. I'm therefore looing for joints sutiable for the TRE's and ends of the wishbones which are sealed and have a fairly high misalignment capacity. I need at least 30 degrees of misalignment, but 35 would be better. They don't need to be all that big as the all up weight will be under a ton. Most people advise just going to a store and doing a load of box-opening to see what looks best, but the shop owners round here don't keep stock of things like that and wouldn't let you open boxes if they did! What kind of off the shelf joints are commonly used, even better if I can get an equivalent in europe and what kind of misalignment can I expect? The intention at the moment is to fabricate/mill the uprights - but again, if there is good off the shelf it might be worth a look! Thanks in advance, Si |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Zeus of the Sluice
Join Date: Mar 2000
Member # 481
Location: San Jose, CA, USA
Posts: 3,849
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I don't think you are going to find a ball joint that will swivel as far as you need if thats what you are thinking of using. You should look at the joints that Hendrix sells with his chassis link kit or something like what they use on the links for the late model Jeeps. If you use good quality heims wear should not be a big problem.
Jason
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#5 (permalink) |
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Rock God
Join Date: Oct 2004
Member # 37016
Location: San Luis Obispo, CA
Posts: 2,136
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just get the rubber boots that cover the heim joitns and just grease them to keep the dirt out of it. Or run some 1ton ball joints or cone balljoints if you need more misalignment.
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#6 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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Thanks for the contacts - I'll give them a go.
Teflon joints just don't seem to last and the rubber seals for rose joints generally seem to limt the movement too much. A Land Rover TRE is almost there at 26 degrees & I hoped something - like jeep would have one a little wider. Si |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2001
Member # 5110
Location: SoCal
Posts: 4,677
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Solid axle GM trucks (from at least 69-91) had drag link ends that have a double spherical joint in them and get quite a bit of angularity. They have 7/8"-18 RH or LH threads. I don't know the actual measurement of the angle...but it is quite a bit because of how short the drag link is.
__________________
Link to thread on my calculator http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=204893 Last edited by Triaged; 12-24-2006 at 10:47 AM. |
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#9 (permalink) |
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fishingwithdynamite
Join Date: May 2004
Member # 30721
Location: on the road
Posts: 3,138
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Contact Sandy Cone at 805.239.2663 or try Troy Johnson at The Fab School.
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#11 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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As a follow-up, after a lot of box opening in my local store....
The DLE/TRE with the most movement that I can find in the UK is from GM/Vauxhall Part number BA0804 or QR3167S I've measured the offset at 37 degrees either side of central. The thread on the taper is M12 x 1.5mm pitch and the thread on the shank is female M14 x 1.5mm pitch. Neither is particularly common - but available none the less. This might be of use to someone else involved in a buildup. Land Rover TRE's are about 26 degree and Suzuki Sidekick 33 degrees (which would have been OK, byt they are too small to use on wishbones) Thanks for all your help! Si Last edited by BigSi D90; 01-02-2007 at 08:20 AM. Reason: Added thread sizes |
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#13 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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Check out www.evolutionmachine.com, they make some nasty big rebuildable.greaseable hiems and tre's that should meet your needs (btw they haven't had to replace a broken hiems yet
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