xatching extreeme - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum

surpip · 03-04-2007, 09:25 AM

And they said the gusset on the bottom of the axle is done in desert racing because it is stronger. The physics of it makes sense, however i see a ton of desert race trucks with gussets across the top of the axle.

so which is better?

SCOOTER/X · 03-04-2007, 10:44 AM

Actually....I see them being top/bottom and sometimes across the back.....all at the same time .....

Billy_Manfroy · 03-05-2007, 01:27 PM

Depends on what you're trying to prevent I would think. Putting them underneath is be the best for stopping the axle ends from tweaking up from impact, but the bottom is difficult because you drag the axle across the desert for 300-500 miles at a time. The silt everyone talks about is like flour and it is 2-4 feet deep, but it's only really there to cover the millions of big, sharp, heavy lava rocks. You can't usually see them because the car before you was grading the road with it's skid pan. I run 35s, and when the tires are in the two main ruts, the rear end is almost always buried past the yoke.

So back to your question... We used to have a BIG problem tweaking the heavy duty style housings from places like Currie. We added a cheap Jegs/Moser rear brace, and then tied it all in with bottom tubes extending from the sides of the banjo out to the ends, and then sheetmetaled it all together. We no longer bend the housing. It used to bend the ends up (from up travel) and forward (from 530 hp). Even after 10-20 miles. We put new axles in it recently and it's still perfect after 2 years of beating on it.

There are a few guys I know that get away with running unbraced housings that look like 9" housings, but they're actually manufactured and have .250" or .375" wall 4130 tubing. These are typically full floaters and either 35 or 40 splines.

As for bracing on the top, it usually gets in the way and limits uptravel.

surpip · 03-05-2007, 03:00 PM

awsome, thanks for the info

03-04-2007, 09:25 AM	#1 (permalink)
surpip Rock God Join Date: Sep 2003 Member # 22748 Location: sacramento ca Posts: 2,060	xatching extreeme And they said the gusset on the bottom of the axle is done in desert racing because it is stronger. The physics of it makes sense, however i see a ton of desert race trucks with gussets across the top of the axle. so which is better? __________________ R.I.P. DOZER R.I.P. Jason GREAT SPIRITS HAVE ALWAYS ENCOUNTERED VIOLENT OPPOSITION FROM MEDIOCRE MINDS -ALBERT EINSTEIN- #472tellico rally xtrm-s10 is a bad hauler dont let him haul your stuff Buy my mega cab KJ6IYH

03-05-2007, 03:00 PM	#4 (permalink)
surpip Rock God Join Date: Sep 2003 Member # 22748 Location: sacramento ca Posts: 2,060	awsome, thanks for the info __________________ R.I.P. DOZER R.I.P. Jason GREAT SPIRITS HAVE ALWAYS ENCOUNTERED VIOLENT OPPOSITION FROM MEDIOCRE MINDS -ALBERT EINSTEIN- #472tellico rally xtrm-s10 is a bad hauler dont let him haul your stuff Buy my mega cab KJ6IYH

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03-04-2007, 10:44 AM	#2 (permalink)
SCOOTER/X Registered User Join Date: Jan 2006 Member # 65868 Location: Brier, Wa. Posts: 22	Actually....I see them being top/bottom and sometimes across the back.....all at the same time .....

03-05-2007, 01:27 PM	#3 (permalink)
Billy_Manfroy Registered User Join Date: Nov 2003 Member # 24501 Location: San Jose, CA Posts: 198	Depends on what you're trying to prevent I would think. Putting them underneath is be the best for stopping the axle ends from tweaking up from impact, but the bottom is difficult because you drag the axle across the desert for 300-500 miles at a time. The silt everyone talks about is like flour and it is 2-4 feet deep, but it's only really there to cover the millions of big, sharp, heavy lava rocks. You can't usually see them because the car before you was grading the road with it's skid pan. I run 35s, and when the tires are in the two main ruts, the rear end is almost always buried past the yoke. So back to your question... We used to have a BIG problem tweaking the heavy duty style housings from places like Currie. We added a cheap Jegs/Moser rear brace, and then tied it all in with bottom tubes extending from the sides of the banjo out to the ends, and then sheetmetaled it all together. We no longer bend the housing. It used to bend the ends up (from up travel) and forward (from 530 hp). Even after 10-20 miles. We put new axles in it recently and it's still perfect after 2 years of beating on it. There are a few guys I know that get away with running unbraced housings that look like 9" housings, but they're actually manufactured and have .250" or .375" wall 4130 tubing. These are typically full floaters and either 35 or 40 splines. As for bracing on the top, it usually gets in the way and limits uptravel.