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Old 11-25-2011, 08:44 AM   #26 (permalink)
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BR series headers will not fit a D/W series body without modification. The LA series headers and manifolds will swap to a Magnum with no issues though a LA log manifold will be seriously choking down the Magnum. Another alternative would be to find a set of '92 or '93 Magnum manifolds which are made for the D/W body style but they are sort of rare due to only being use two years.

Looks like you are making good progress either way and thanks for documenting this. If I win the lottery I want to swap to a 4BT but if that doesn't work out it will get a Magnum engine swap with the MPFI.
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Old 11-25-2011, 10:14 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Another bonus. The power steering pump lines from the old pump fit the pump of the magnum engine. I had to tweek the pressure line a little but it screwed right in.
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Old 11-26-2011, 11:05 PM   #28 (permalink)
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The kickdown cable off the 98 also works. There is an ear on the left side of the 727 just like the 46RE. The cable bolts on the ear and will clip on the ball on the existing kickdown lever. The Throttle cable from the 98 is not a direct fit, but works. To use it you need to cut a slit in the top just above the hole for the cable. The hole will also have to be drilled out slightly larger to accept it. It does clip in the firewall, but its designed for a square hole and catches on its for corners in the original round hole.
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Old 11-27-2011, 10:55 AM   #29 (permalink)
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man i'd kill to have a shop like that
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Old 11-28-2011, 09:57 PM   #30 (permalink)
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I hate it when I am wrong. It always cost more money that way. Ran into a fuel issue. Tried an inline pump but the pressure was not steady because of the dead head system. I ended up getting the whole module fuel pump for the 98 and lucked out that it fit with a little plastic removal. It camped in just like the old one. Now I have steady regulated fuel pressure. 54 psi. Glad to hrave it back on the road. The sending units are different resistance so no fuel gauge for now. It's a little cheaper buying the module than getting a pump that would work and a pressure regulator. This way I won't have to try to tune in the right pressure.
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Old 12-16-2011, 07:24 AM   #31 (permalink)
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Some tech info. Kinda an ass kicker until i figured it out. The truck would launch great , then about 3000 rpm it would fall on its face but it would still try to accelerate. It would pull out of it around 4500 and run great. I spent hours watching a scan tool following all the readings for everything. What was happening was the timing would go from 40 degrees advance to 0 and back again. I was almost ready to through parts at it when I notice the brake sense for the computer was "pressed". The computer uses a 12 volt signal to the brake switch, and when the brake is not applied it is grounded. I grounded the brake switch wire and It solved the issue. The computer was seeing that the brake was applied so it was backing off fuel and timing for emissions. Its always the dumb little shit that gets you.

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Old 12-16-2011, 10:03 AM   #32 (permalink)
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Did some fender trimming and went out and thrashed it. Figured you guys would enjoy the one of the thornbirds getting burnt off. I also drive it as my daily right now.
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Old 12-16-2011, 02:42 PM   #33 (permalink)
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coming along pretty sweet!
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Old 03-06-2012, 03:18 PM   #34 (permalink)
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A little backwards progress. Severe cracked head dumping coolant into cylinder 5. At least its now retired from daily driver status. Time to fuck it up.
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Old 03-06-2012, 07:26 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Talking

Well shit that didn't take long to do.
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Old 03-06-2012, 09:21 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Salvage yard shit. I should have pulled the heads before i put it in. I found a set of heads from Hughes Engine. They cast there own that are not suppose to crack like the factory and are suppose to flow like the discontinued RT heads from mopar. They run $875 for a set with valves, seals, springs and keepers.
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Old 03-06-2012, 09:32 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Froadin View Post
Salvage yard shit. I should have pulled the heads before i put it in. I found a set of heads from Hughes Engine. They cast there own that are not suppose to crack like the factory and are suppose to flow like the discontinued RT heads from mopar. They run $875 for a set with valves, seals, springs and keepers.
I bought my heads from Hughes. Worked Edelbrock Performer RPM heads $2000. Make sure you check everything when you get them before slapping them on. They were not blueprinted as advertised. The spring pressures were all over the place. I had to change the springs and the valve seat was not great. Ask alot of question and get straight answers before buying.
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Old 03-06-2012, 09:39 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Did you get the 1.92" intake valve or the 2.02"?

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Old 03-15-2012, 08:48 AM   #39 (permalink)
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A little more front fender trimming. The front and rear diffs are both welded now. I'm curious to see how well the front works with the cad. It will be nice still being able to lock and unlock the front axle. I have a set of 3/4 ton axles (60 rear and 44 front) in case things go south. The plan is to dovenose it and bob the rear, but its just going to get some trimming in the rear for now. Prolly cut it up next winter. Rear shackle flip with chevy hangers is going in this weekend. NO MORE BLOCKS!
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Old 03-15-2012, 09:17 AM   #40 (permalink)
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whoa, you welded the front? haha, don't take that sucker on anything paved.

nice truck!
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Old 03-15-2012, 11:14 AM   #41 (permalink)
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The front has an axle disconnect so I can choose when its locked.
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Old 03-15-2012, 11:46 AM   #42 (permalink)
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Needs more cutting.

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Old 03-15-2012, 12:25 PM   #43 (permalink)
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Agreed. I like the look of the front with no bumper but i know I'll destroy it if I don't put something on it.
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Old 08-11-2012, 07:56 PM   #44 (permalink)
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Been a while since updates........... Any way its not set up for a rock garden.
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Old 08-11-2012, 10:05 PM   #45 (permalink)
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Damn, Just gotta say I dig those rims.
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Old 07-03-2013, 01:14 PM   #46 (permalink)
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Any updates on this truck
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