Another W150 Build

[Country69]

Mutha Fucka I'm Pissed Off!

Had an 85 W150 I bought for parts. Kid calls an tells me he just saw it leaving on a tow truck.

My own fuckin fault cause I stuck it on the street with no reg. so my wife could have the drive to wash her car.

600.00 for a complete running truck. FUCK! Didn't get one fuggin part off of it.

Had many years of back reg. Never got tagged just got towed.

SHIT! I'll never see it again.

[Elwenil]

Just call the cops and ask where it was towed. If the impound fees are somewhat reasonable, it might be worth getting it back.

[Country69]

7 years of back registration plus tow and storage at a minimum of 3 days.

I'm afraid it doesn't make financial sense. I'm kicking myself hard over this one.

Damn thing ran great.

[Elwenil]

Ah, I forgot you live in Kali. Around here there is not such thing as "back registration". If I park something in the city limits here it has to be tagged and inspected but I can hide whatever I want in the county as long as it's out of sight.

[Country69]

Holy crap! How much air can a friggin brake system hold?

Must have two hours into bleeding and I'm just starting to get pedal.

bench bled the master and used the power bleeder to pull fluid down the lines.

Will crack all high points looking for trapped air. Do you think there could be some trapped in the proportioning valve?

Any tips or tricks?

[Elwenil]

It's possible. It;s also possible that the valve has tripped and sealed off one side so you won't get much fluid out of it. If you suspect that is the case, stomp on the pedal a few times like you would in a panic stop and it should reset. Sometimes they can be stubborn. It's also possible you have a bad master cylinder, even if it's new it can be bad, especially if you got it from a discount parts store like Advance Auto or Auto Zone. And just to cover the basics, make sure you bleed the passenger rear first, then driver rear, passenger front and then the driver front last.

[Theft_eXP]

Also, pressure bleeding always works better then vacuum bleeding.

if possible, have 1 person step on the brakes, then open nipple, and it will force the air out of it. Also, always be carefull to NEVER push the pedal all the way to the floor. that can and mostly will damage it.

[Country69]

Ran through in proper order rears to front. Never heard of " don't put the peddle to the floor" to late any way.

Will have the kid pump em up, while I crack em. This is my normal method.

If they don't get better I'll try a different master.

They are coming up just real slow.

[Country69]

Well Hell.

Brakes still suck but I will keep messin with em. I may put the old master on just to make sure the new is bad.

Actually moved her under her own power (BOUT FUKIN TIME)

Sitting on level ground there is a 2.5" height difference front to rear.

Anyone know of a manufacturer that has a 2" rear lift spring I can't find a 2" and don't want to block the rear or lower the front.

Edit: you can see it in the avatar pic. the drive has good slope and truck is level.

[Elwenil]

An add-a-leaf can add about 2", depending on the arch of the springs you have now. Also, how new are the front springs? They can settle quite a bit.

[Country69]

Thought about the add a leaf but was concerned about the rear being to stiff.

The fronts are 25 years or so, I think they are settled. Considered de-arching them.

Thought about removing the front perches (about 2" tall) and getting a shorter perch.

Don't much want a brick as I shackle flipped to get rid of them.(axle wrap)
If I lower the front I'll be re-dealing with steering clearance.

Can't find a 2.5"x 54"x 2-3" lift spring for my application. Wonder if I could make a different spring work.(chevy,ford,etc.)

Alcans are a grand easy. Not happening wright now. Computer just fried in my car.

Edit: What do you guys think about a longer shackle? they rears are already 4.5" bolt to bolt. would it need to be 8" long?

[Elwenil]

8.5" to get 2" more out of them. Not something I would do since it would be pretty wobbly on the street. What springs do you have on the rear now? Are they lift springs? If so, why not just get 2" more? If they are 4" lift springs, go with 6".

[Country69]

I believe that the lift was installed when truck was new.

4" lift front springs with stock rears and blocks.

I was just looking at a Superlift add-a leaf that may work if I chose that route.

I'll keep looking for a lifted spring . Someone has to have something.

[Elwenil]

You may want to look at a truck with stock replacement springs. The stock Dodge springs are infamous for losing arch over time. The only way to know how bad they are is to compare them to a truck with better springs. An add-a-leaf will stiffen the springs up, so would going to a set of heavier weight class springs but they may hold up better. My stock '88 AW150 springs are shot and I'm going to replace them with a set of stock springs from my old '74 W200. Even after 38 years they still hold their shape and the early '70s springs are known to be a little taller than later years. Naturally they are stiffer, which doesn't really bother me.

[Country69]

Good point.

Truck served for many years as work truck, tow rig, and toy. Lets just say it was definitely sitting on its ass on a few occasions.

I'll check into this. Got this posted in newbie as well.

Dude just posted up Mr N's leaf spring guide. Should be able to come up with something, I think I was just going at it wrong.(Tunnel Vision)

Thanks

[Country69]

Think I'll look for a 6" shackle and a 1.5" block for now. I can re-use the U-bolts too.

Still messing with the brakes. I think I will remove the P-valve and use a rear in-line for bias.

When I lose the proportioning valve what do I do to get rid of the brake light? I don't care if it works I just don't want the light on.

[adam5432002]

Originally Posted by Country69

When I lose the proportioning valve what do I do to get rid of the brake light? I don't care if it works I just don't want the light on.

Give the reverse bleeder a try. It worked wonders on my rear setup. Bleed all the little bleeders thow. It took awhile to get the air out of the time. The light went off and it works awesome now.

[rxinhed]

There is a yard near me with an 89 W150 in the selection. The truck has a 4" set of front springs, probably Rough Country. If you're interested, I can forward the phone number.

[Country69]

Hey thanks man.

I'm gonna try and raise the rear a little.

Maybe shackle and block.

I'll keep this in mind if I need them.

[adam5432002]

Originally Posted by Country69

Hey thanks man.

I'm gonna try and raise the rear a little.

Maybe shackle and block.

I'll keep this in mind if I need them.

I got some blocks with ur name on them because of the spring thing. Theres 5" and 2". PM me if you need em man.

[g-wizz]

Originally Posted by Country69

7 years of back registration plus tow and storage at a minimum of 3 days.

I'm afraid it doesn't make financial sense. I'm kicking myself hard over this one.

Damn thing ran great.

altho its to late now you could have flat bedded it to your house. the registration thing only applies if the truck sees the road.

[Country69]

SHIT!

Now you tell me.

Didn't think of that.

[ffdustyw]

/forum/side-sides/1090458-fairbanks-alaska-polaris-rzr.html

[Country69]

Have not had much time for wrenching lately.

Still trying to get my lift shit together. Just need to make this work for a while till I order new springs.

Gonna ditch my proportioning valve, install an inline adjustable for the rears.

*****It is my understanding that I need a 2 P.S.I. residual valve for the disc brakes.******

Would some one please confirm.

Taking off for a week or so to take the kid on his first bow hunt. We will be in PA for the whitetail opener.

I would like to get my parts together/ordered before I go.

Thanks in advance.

[crashnzuk]

You do not need a residual valve on disc brakes. The guys who install them are typically trying to band-aid a problem that they can't figure out.
Travis..