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Old 06-09-2012, 06:31 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Another W150 Build

I'm not really bringing a lot of tech for those who have done this before.

I decided my old 83 W150 needed a little more ground clearance after a trip to Yuba Gap last deer season. I've been running 35" MTRs on a dana 44 front and 9 1/4 rear for years. 200,000 miles and years of beating have taken there toll.

I decided to go one tons as it made no sense to throw good money at weaker axles. After joining Pirate, searching and asking a lot of dumb ass newbie questions, I chose to go with a Dodge dana 70u/60 combo from an early 90s CTD. These are a direct bolt in as the spring perches are the same width as my 1/2 ton axles.

It will remain leaf sprung while I edjimicate myself on link suspension.

The existing 4" lift was installed with rear blocks in 83 by the dealer so I did a shackle flip to do away with the blocks.

The rebuilt by me dana 70u went in today as well as the first two 41" Iroks.
Tore the rear down last night after work and was able to get an early start this morning. I am pleased with the results so far and hope to get the front 44 yanked out tomorrow morning. Maybe get the 60 in before supper.

Still need to run brake lines and have the drive lines redone but I am at least making progress. After the axle swap is complete I will begin some home brewed bumpers that should really bring the beef.

Still deciding whether or not to keep the bed or do something like Dusty did. (before the sides, I think page 3 of his build, but with stake sides)

After bumpers and winch I can determine what she weighs for suspension upgrades.

Long winded I know but I finally felt confident enough to try posting in DODGE. Extreme? Maybe not yet ,But certainly on it's way>

Thanks for everybody's help. Here are some pics.
Sorry the wife wont let me post her tits on here.
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Old 06-09-2012, 06:33 PM   #2 (permalink)
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tear down, me and the boy.
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Old 06-09-2012, 06:43 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Re-build.

Decided that I only wanted to do this once. Since I determined that this will be some what multi-purpose, that I didn't need to build it to big.

Went with 4.88s, Detroit, 35 spline chromos, and a disc swap on the rear.

The front is open for now with 35 spline chromo outers, Reid knuckles. NWF high steer w/ cross over, new splindles and new Warns.
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Old 06-09-2012, 06:47 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Couple of the 70u swap and shackle flip.

Noticed in the dis swap pic there is a bolt on bracket. Those were replaced by the GUBNI weld on you see on the floor.
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Old 06-09-2012, 06:53 PM   #5 (permalink)
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41" Iroks with minor trimming. I will adjust as needed unless I decide to loose the bed. Looks will finalize my decision. Overall I like the way it is looking. I will post more as they become available. That is a 33" on the front.
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Old 06-10-2012, 12:49 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Got an early start this morning and got the front 44 out and the 60 installed.

Lost a u-bolt somewhere (WTF) so I had to use the old one on the perch side till I can stop by the spring shop.

Got the tires on the front and will measure for fit as I go.

Will need to get new degree shims for the front. As well as the rear which needs to come down about 10 degrees for a better angle to the T-case.

Like the way it's sittin, but still want new springs if I stay leaf for a while.

Ordered some new TREs and inserts so I can fab tie rod and steering arm.

Still need to move the steering box to the two wheel drive position and get a dropped pitman arm. The I think since I've gone this far I will re-plumb the brake system. Shouldn't be to bad, after reading the brake bible I have a good idea of how to set her up.
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Old 06-10-2012, 03:11 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Unless you are using some custom leaf spring setup like swapped in longer leafs with new mounts or you have a poorly designed lift kit with shitty springs, do not shim the front axle. Shimming to ease the U-joint angle screws up the caster angle and causes the spooky steering and some say it contributes to death wobble as well. If something you have done has changes the caster angle, by all means shim it back in spec but if you are just trying to make life easier on the front U-joints, forget it as you will cause more problems than you will solve.
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Old 06-10-2012, 05:30 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Thanks for the tip. All I did was replace them. They were already in there.

I have to swap a U-bolt any way. I'll try it without them. This thing has always been all over the road. After seeing how they install I can't believe they lasted all these years. Maybe because I check the bolts once in a while

You guys know how it goes" Drift one way, Catch it, Drift back the other way"

There is a CV in the front so I'll see how it goes.

QUESTIONS?

When measuring a drive line do you bottom out the slider or give it a little play? (inch or so) If it is to tight will you bottom it out and damage the T-case?

Should I move the top shock mounts on the rear outboard?
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Old 06-10-2012, 06:15 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Looks good!
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Old 06-10-2012, 07:14 PM   #10 (permalink)
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QUESTIONS?

When measuring a drive line do you bottom out the slider or give it a little play? (inch or so) If it is to tight will you bottom it out and damage the T-case?

Should I move the top shock mounts on the rear outboard?
I'm assuming you're talking about the slip joint in the drive-shaft? I centered mine, but roughly should be the same for a slip yoke at the transfer case.
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Old 06-10-2012, 07:29 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Yes the slip joint in the drive-shaft.

I 'm concerned about them Breaking the case if I leave them to long. The old set up had them stretched out pretty far so I had no sound reference.
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Old 06-11-2012, 04:34 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Yes the slip joint in the drive-shaft.

I 'm concerned about them Breaking the case if I leave them to long. The old set up had them stretched out pretty far so I had no sound reference.
I just stretched mine out all of the way, then collapsed it all of the way; measured what that travel was. I set it to the middle of that measurement when I fabbed up my shaft.
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Old 06-11-2012, 05:47 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Easy enough! Thank you sir.
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Old 06-11-2012, 06:51 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Just dropped off the rear drive shaft to have it shortened(4.5" WOW).

I think I might switch the 70 yoke to a 60 so I only have to carry one spare for the diff joints.

Not bad 100.00 out the door to cut and balance. Still need to roll the rear down a few degrees as 20 is a little to steep. Used to be 10.
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Old 06-12-2012, 05:52 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Truck is lookin' good!
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Old 06-12-2012, 07:06 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Thanks Kert.

That shackle flip kit of yours is BAD-ASS. Everything lined up perfect.
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Old 06-13-2012, 02:25 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Thanks Kert.

That shackle flip kit of yours is BAD-ASS. Everything lined up perfect.
I used the same one on my Ramcharger, fit up perfect!
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Old 06-13-2012, 04:56 PM   #18 (permalink)
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I have read that the 60 yoke will fit the 70. Will someone please confirm.

Have you done it?

If I can I only need to carry one size conversion joint spare till I re-do the drivelines.

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Old 06-13-2012, 07:56 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Yes, you will be able to put a 60 yoke on your 70.
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Old 06-20-2012, 08:27 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Got my drive line back the other day, but can't get the damn pinion nut loose on the 70 so I can put the 60 yoke in. My compressor is not big enough to break it. Hanging on a 6' cheater bar won't cut it either.

Shimmed the rear pinion down today and wound up with about 12 degrees. I think this will be good.

Tomorrow if it is not 100+ degrees again I'll yank the front degree shims out, install the new U-bolt at the diff-perch. Then I need to mock up the high steer and crossover tubes for insert welding.

I'm not sure if I'll have to bend the tie rod ends slightly or not, until I cycle it a few times mocked up. I still have the stock tie rod I can use for practice.

Borgenson steering shaft should be here soon. Gotta find a dropped pitman arm too.
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Old 06-20-2012, 08:31 PM   #21 (permalink)
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I think I'll try and save the front sway bar and fab some disconnects.

Do you guys know a good link or have suggestions.

This bitch has a lot of body roll and I'm sure it wont be any better now.
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Old 06-22-2012, 06:30 PM   #22 (permalink)
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My cousin who welded my brake brackets said he has an impact to break the pinion nut loose.

Cousin Glen to the rescue again.

Looks like I'm back in business.

Can't start break in on axles without a rear drive line.
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Old 06-24-2012, 06:45 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Well shit. Got the pinion nut off this morning only to find out that the 60 yoke I had won't fit.

While they are both 29 spline the 70 splines are more triangular and the 60 are more squared. Looking on-line for a different 60 yoke.

Starting to figure out bumper ideas but will have to get some winch specs/or winch before fabrication.

Anyone want to post some homemade bumper pics I'd appreciate it. Give me some more ideas.
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Old 06-27-2012, 08:20 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Should have my dropped pitman arm by the weekend. Will be able to mock and fab tie rod and crossover. As soon as I choose a M/C I can wrap up the brakes.

Still want home made bumper pics please, need some more ideas.

I believe they say that a winch should be 1 1/2 times the weight of the rig.

I am leaning towards a 12,000 lb.
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Old 06-30-2012, 09:32 PM   #25 (permalink)
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That's weird. I have personally ran a 70 yoke on numerous D60's.
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