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Old 12-16-2001, 06:41 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Couple of Dodge ?'s

Lemme start off by saying I don't know anything about Dodges.

I recently bought a couple of Dodge 3/4 ton PU's and got a completely rebuilt 400 Logblock as part of the deal. Is this a BB or SB. Any Idea on worth? Any info would be appreciated....
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Old 12-16-2001, 02:54 PM   #2 (permalink)
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400 is a BB. Thats all I can tell you as a Chevy guy.

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Old 12-16-2001, 02:54 PM   #3 (permalink)
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The 400 is a big block. My personal opinion is that it is junk. If you want to use a bb go for a 440. The 400 has too short of a stroke (3.38) to make much torque. You can put a 440 crank in it to improve its ability to make torque but that is expensive. The 400 also sucks alot of gas compared to either the 360sb or the 440 bb. For a 4X4 the 360 or 440 either one are better chioces.
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Old 12-16-2001, 09:19 PM   #4 (permalink)
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could of sworn it was still 400 cubes. lack of torque? i'll trade ya for my 360 anyday if you already have the 400, use it
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Old 12-16-2001, 09:25 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Chrysler Power magazine did a stroker build using the 400. It was something like this: 440 crank with .25" offset grind, BBChevy rods, and .030" over 440 pistons. Came out to be a 472 IIRC. Can't remember if they put output figures up, that was like 10 yrs ago when I read that article. Anyway, a 400 is basically a 383 with a bigger bore. And the only reason it gets such shitty mileage is because it was so smogged down. It was the replacement motor for the 383. 1971 was the transition year.
It CAN be a good motor, but personally I like the longer stroke of the 440. The 400 would be a killer street cheater motor. You could stroke it (depending on how much $$$ you got) to anywhere between a 451 to around 490 and tell ppl that it's a 383. Most ppl wouldn't know how to tell the difference, and even if they did, they probly wouldn't go thru the hassle.
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Old 12-17-2001, 10:35 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Fullsize I'll Take that offer when you are ready to come pick up the 400's. I have two of them sitting on my engine trailer. By the way I took out one of the 400's to put in a 360but currently have a 440 being built to take its place.
DALEM why would you need to tell people it is a 383 you are not racing here so it doesnt matter whether you are running a 1.3 in a Geo or a 502 Chevy all thet counts is how far you get down the trail no need to lie about what you are running.
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Old 12-17-2001, 07:42 PM   #7 (permalink)
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are you trying to tell me a 360 is more powerful than a 400?!sorry dont need the 100# weight gain in my cj, front springs are already flat(plus i dont need anymore power, i've already broke enough 44 axles). i would however trade the 360 going in my 70 duster for a 400. what i'm getting at is he HAS the 400 and you are telling him that a 440 is that much better, to just off a perfectly capable motor. i had a 440 in my ramcharger and have since drove a truck with a 400 and theres not that much difference, in stock form. i say keep the 400 unless you can find someone to buy the 400 for as much as its going to cost you to swap to a 440 motor, different converter/flywheel and exhaust, not to mention it wont be smog legal without a ref inspection( dont know how it works were you live). you dont have to tell me a 440 is gonna make more power, just don't get caught up in all the hype of bigger is better. (just another gearhead with an opinion)
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Old 12-17-2001, 09:19 PM   #8 (permalink)
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hay, wait a second! that almost slipped by but i could of sworn pete just said the Che_y word in the dodge forum!
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Old 12-18-2001, 07:36 PM   #9 (permalink)
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DALEM why would you need to tell people it is a 383 you are not racing here so it doesnt matter whether you are running a 1.3 in a Geo or a 502 Chevy all thet counts is how far you get down the trail no need to lie about what you are running. [/B]
The author of this thread didn't specify what purpose the motor was for. If you look at his name, racinhound, you might think he was building it to race. Or at least I would think that. If not, FUCK IT!!!
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Old 12-18-2001, 09:32 PM   #10 (permalink)
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well actually...im tradin him for the truck!! so now im gonna take over this thread, since i have the questions aobut the motor!! lol

but my purpose is deffinately going to be straight on mud drags and mud bogs. So for that HP is the key. Deffinatley going to be running nitrous. but from there, im not exactly sure what will be done. so any help would be great!!

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Old 12-18-2001, 10:18 PM   #11 (permalink)
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if your going to build a motor for full on mud drags w/ nitrous go with a forged crank 440. use eagle steel rods(for up to 650-700hp) with ross lightweight pistons. all this can be bought from muscle motors in lansing, mich. they really know their stuff, they also have a web site. the heads can be cast iron ported stockers but for the big #s i'd go with aluminum stage 6 mopar performance heads(again for the 650-700hp range). solid lifter cam, good carb(dont go to big, a 850 will feed 650-700hp) and some big tube headers should do you right. D60 should be a minimum at this level, but thats what your looking for, right?
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Old 12-19-2001, 09:28 PM   #12 (permalink)
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The stage six heads are the last choice in aftermarket bb heads, ebrocks or indys are a better head. 400s and 440s with stock heads, the head airflow is the big limiter so they make about the same power, the 400 just makes it at a little higher rpm and well rev much quicker due to much lower bob weight. The 400 got a bad rap because of lean burn, there's nothing really wrong with them.
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Old 12-19-2001, 11:06 PM   #13 (permalink)
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call any good engine builder and they'll tell ya different on what ever head they can sell. i have personal experience with the stage 6 heads(indy's cost to much) and they work great. and yes your right about the 400, same thing happened to the 360. people are only in the last few years starting to catch on that 340s aren't going to be around for ever and you just need to bump up the compression and go bigger valves, whala! instant 340.
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Old 12-20-2001, 05:43 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Or if you wanted to go even better, StageV Engineering makes a set of Hemi heads for the B and RB motors. These heads outflow all the aftermarket wedge designs. They cost a little more, but if you got the dough you get the flow.
Personally, if you'll be running nitrous, i'd stick with the shorter stroke. But i'd probably try and find a forged crank from a 383 or 361. The eagle rods are a good idea(or any light aftermkt rod) and lighter pistons also. Good luck on your project! Sounds like a fun one.
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Old 12-20-2001, 09:14 PM   #15 (permalink)
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fullsize, i was going by the as delivered head, the stage 6s are really bad in the bowl area under the valve seats, at least the ones i've seen and heard about. Dale, the stage 5 hemi conversion heads are pricey, kind of like the indy -1 wedge heads but i think the -1s will make more power if the motor is built right due to better squish and quench.
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Old 12-20-2001, 09:35 PM   #16 (permalink)
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well...for the moment, im going to stick with the stock heads. i guess the dude who owned it before racinhound ported them...so for now, will be ok. The forged crank is deffinately going in, and lighter pistons (probably hi comp ones so i can run straight turbo blue) and rods too. But what about a crank? any suggestions on that?

another thought (i have lots of wierd ones some times..hehe) was for a tunnel ram intake with 2 600-800cfm carbs. can i run dual shots of fog at 100hp or 200hp??? (depending on how quickly i want to blow the motor up! hehehe) any thoughts on that? Thanks!!!
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Old 12-21-2001, 06:37 AM   #17 (permalink)
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If ya don't get my damn axle out ya aint gettin shit there fatboy

O yea still waitin on the call from Wednesday
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Old 12-21-2001, 04:53 PM   #18 (permalink)
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lol....yeah yeah yeah...i tried callin you today at work, but to no avail. Are you still headed this way on saturday? if you are, just take the whole damn exploder with you!!!! hehe...not really

if you really don't wanna make the second trip, ill find a way to bring it to you after christmas, so you don't have to come here....
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Old 12-21-2001, 08:41 PM   #19 (permalink)
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[i]The forged crank is deffinately going in, and lighter pistons (probably hi comp ones so i can run straight turbo blue) and rods too. But what about a crank? any suggestions on that? [/B]
Hmmm, what about a crank? You just said yourself a forged one is going in, what else do you need to know? I suggested already using one from a 383 or 361. Either will swap right in. If you use a 440 crank, you either have to bore your mains to fit the crank or grind the main journals to fit the block.
Perhaps you meant what about a CAM?? In this case, since you already have your bottom end pretty much planned out with high comp and lightweight components, there's only a few other things to figure in for the cam choice. Are you running a manual or auto? If auto, what stall speed? For an all out mud dragger, I'd probably go with a solid cam in the .550" lift area and about 285-290* dur. If you're auto, I'd run around a 4200 stall. It sounds like cost may be SOMEwhat of a factor for you, but if not then run a roller cam with around the same specs. Now you have to "fit" the rest of the stuff to the cam. i.e. intake manifold, carb(s), heads, etc. I would'nt use those cams with stock valve sizes tho.

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Old 12-21-2001, 09:42 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Originally posted by DaleM
Perhaps you meant what about a CAM?? In this case, since you already have your bottom end pretty much planned out with high comp and lightweight components, there's only a few other things to figure in for the cam choice. Are you running a manual or auto? If auto, what stall speed? For an all out mud dragger, I'd probably go with a solid cam in the .550" lift area and about 285-290* dur. If you're auto, I'd run around a 4200 stall. It sounds like cost may be SOMEwhat of a factor for you, but if not then run a roller cam with around the same specs. Now you have to "fit" the rest of the stuff to the cam. i.e. intake manifold, carb(s), heads, etc. I would'nt use those cams with stock valve sizes tho.
hehehe...ya..i meant the cam. and i can't decide on wether or not to use a manual or auto. its got the torque flite 727 and the np435 i think. as of now, im leaning towards the auto, but can be steered either direction. cause i really can't decide.

and yeah....you pretty much nailed it...cost is Sort of a factor for me...but i got a good job, no woman (this can be good and bad...hehe..) and low rent. so money isn't a HUGE problem...but i can't really justify going out and throwing money at it till i start racing. so really, im gonna need a setup that will be able to last for a few seasons, with some minor changes of course, but still will get me high hp, and hopfully placing in the events.

thanks a lot for all your help, and keep it coming!!!!!!!!!
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Old 12-21-2001, 09:50 PM   #21 (permalink)
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That's a good trick, a torqueflite and an np435, I think you mean 203 or 205.
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Old 12-22-2001, 01:14 AM   #22 (permalink)
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That's a good trick, a torqueflite and an np435, I think you mean 203 or 205.
No he means 727 and NP435 no T-case comes with it
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Old 12-22-2001, 02:37 AM   #23 (permalink)
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ya what he said...i got 2 trannies..and can't decide which to use. though what you were thinking does sound like me.....huh huh..me not vary smert..der dar!
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Old 12-22-2001, 08:04 PM   #24 (permalink)
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hehehe...ya..i meant the cam. and i can't decide on wether or not to use a manual or auto. its got the torque flite 727 and the np435 i think. as of now, im leaning towards the auto, but can be steered either direction. cause i really can't decide.

For comp racing I'd go with auto for sure. 727 is a damn good tranny and you won't miss a gear either If you go with the cam specs above or close to em, I'd definately do some pretty extensive headwork to take advantage of the package. 2" primary tube headers should do fine also. Good luck with your project and go kick some blue oval and bowtie ass!!
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