Durango SAS Build

[durcrim]

Alright, so I can start my build thread now. It's a 98 with a 5.9 gasser with 117k, and the front end is beaten to death. Bought the HP D44 a few weeks ago, but didn't have time until today to measure, and draw up plans for the front end. so the plan is rancho waggy leafs with Rubicon monotube resivors. Im going to throw in 4.56's (maybe 4.88s? haven't decided) and ARB's front and rear, along with the chromolly shafts ect..

the rear is getting a LP D60 (disc brakes and 35spline shafts stock), sprung over on new oem leafs (have to do it because of the military wrap on ONE end and offset eyelet) also with an ARB.

it will be rolling on 36 SX's, or maybe IROCK's with black 15" walker evans beadlock's (fuck being street legal, i'd rather have my tires ON the wheel)

i'll get some picturs going when the actual work begins, this weekend.

comments, suggestions, ideas, flaming, experience, and tips are all welcome. let me know what ya'll think.

[B.C. 05]

Why not a 60 in the front?

[durcrim]

Originally Posted by B.C. 05

Why not a 60 in the front?

price first and foremost, $250 compaired to $1000. and clearence, I want plently of clearence because 36" tires are the biggest i'll be going, and the pumpkin of a 60 is massive.

[durcrim]

Heading up to Bay State Off-road tomorrow so Bob and I can figure out these radius arms.

[smurison14]

sounds good, cant wit to see some pics.

[silvergreentj]

keep us updated with pictures!!!!

[durcrim]

Originally Posted by smurison14

sounds good, cant wit to see some pics.

Originally Posted by silvergreentj

keep us updated with pictures!!!!

WILL DO!!!

[SolidAxleDurango]

Originally Posted by durcrim

...sprung over on new oem leafs (have to do it because of the military wrap on ONE end and offset eyelet)...

You will not be able to use a OEM spring "out of the box" for a spring over with a tire that size. The spring has somewhat of an s-shape - centering pin points from high-back to low-front. Without doing anything, your wheelbase will shorten considerably.

To run 35's, I started with a brand new OEM pack and replaced the top spring with a reproduction from National - centering pin pushed about 1.5" back. Also added another "second to the top" leaf to the pack.

Without doing anything, you'll be hard pressed to get it to roll on level pavement with that size of tire... There is NOT a lot of trimming you can do with the rear fender forward of the wheel well.

[ramv]

Originally Posted by durcrim

price first and foremost, $250 compaired to $1000. and clearence, I want plently of clearence because 36" tires are the biggest i'll be going, and the pumpkin of a 60 is massive.

Considering the money you will have into the build, you would be better off to run a stock 60 then a 44 with alloys. Especially since you are doing a rear axle swap anyway and new wheels

That is a heavy vehicle with a big (ie heavy ) motor to be riding on small ujoints.

Iroks will help some since they don't hook up as well as some of the radials (Krawlers etc)....

The build sounds cool, I just get sick of changing out alloy shafts and CTMs on the trail.... .My 60/70 with stock shafts does much better. With 37"s I got through a lot more trails with the less clearnace of the 60-/70 then I did breaking 44 parts on eveyr obstacle.

[toymaniac]

I got pics of a durango with a D-60 if anyone wants to post em.

[durcrim]

Originally Posted by SolidAxleDurango

You will not be able to use a OEM spring "out of the box" for a spring over with a tire that size. The spring has somewhat of an s-shape - centering pin points from high-back to low-front. Without doing anything, your wheelbase will shorten considerably.

To run 35's, I started with a brand new OEM pack and replaced the top spring with a reproduction from National - centering pin pushed about 1.5" back. Also added another "second to the top" leaf to the pack.

Without doing anything, you'll be hard pressed to get it to roll on level pavement with that size of tire... There is NOT a lot of trimming you can do with the rear fender forward of the wheel well.

ohh, thanks for the input, would have had to figure that out the hard way... how do your 35's fit and stuff with your set up?

Originally Posted by ramv

Considering the money you will have into the build, you would be better off to run a stock 60 then a 44 with alloys. Especially since you are doing a rear axle swap anyway and new wheels

That is a heavy vehicle with a big (ie heavy ) motor to be riding on small ujoints.

Iroks will help some since they don't hook up as well as some of the radials (Krawlers etc)....

The build sounds cool, I just get sick of changing out alloy shafts and CTMs on the trail.... .My 60/70 with stock shafts does much better. With 37"s I got through a lot more trails with the less clearnace of the 60-/70 then I did breaking 44 parts on eveyr obstacle.

I already have the 44, but I will do a 60 if I can find one cheap enough, there are only 2 junk yards in a reasonable distance from me, and I have checked both, no 60's. I had to drive over an hour to get the deal on my hp front 44. But thanks for the heads up.!!

[durcrim]

Originally Posted by toymaniac

I got pics of a durango with a D-60 if anyone wants to post em.

lets have a look.

[ramv]

I ended up having my 60 shipped about 600 miles. It was still cheaper then buying it local. Doug (High Honda) on this board, extreme axles, has some pretty cheap 60s. Usually around $800 or so....

[Mr. Mindless]

I'd suggest going 60 too. I did a 44, went to bigger tires, broke stuff being gentle, threw $600 in shafts and CMTs at it only to break them again on my first run - being pretty gentle (fuck Moser - get Alloy USA since they actually stand by their product).

Stock 60 parts and a weekend that cracked my frame, no other brakage. You'll put in a 60 sooner or later, better to do it sooner.

[krweby]

Originally Posted by durcrim

ohh, thanks for the input, would have had to figure that out the hard way... how do your 35's fit and stuff with your set up?



I already have the 44, but I will do a 60 if I can find one cheap enough, there are only 2 junk yards in a reasonable distance from me, and I have checked both, no 60's. I had to drive over an hour to get the deal on my hp front 44. But thanks for the heads up.!!

At full stuff when 35's are new they just rub my flair. I moved mine back about a 1.5 also on the perch. I'm running the stock springs still. My next step is redoing the back bumper and going to 56" chevy springs or custom pack to get it back enough to go to 37's.

[BlueDodgeRam]

i know where a 60/70 combo for a grand is if your interested. out of a 95 Dodge

[durcrim]

Originally Posted by krweby

At full stuff when 35's are new they just rub my flair. I moved mine back about a 1.5 also on the perch. I'm running the stock springs still. My next step is redoing the back bumper and going to 56" chevy springs or custom pack to get it back enough to go to 37's.

do you mean you moved back the pin?

Originally Posted by BlueDodgeRam

i know where a 60/70 combo for a grand is if your interested. out of a 95 Dodge

well the biggest i'm going is 36's but thanks. its just the whole anchor thing with those, I'll be doing a 60 rear though.

[krweby]

Originally Posted by durcrim

do you mean you moved back the pin?



well the biggest i'm going is 36's but thanks. its just the whole anchor thing with those, I'll be doing a 60 rear though.

No the hole is moved forward on the perch.

[sledheadak]

heres one i built.used thecomplete front suspension from a 77 f150.used 6" soft ride coils with 1.5-2 coils cut off to set ride height.this one was a 2001 durango r/t.i had to modify the frame to mount the ford steering box since it has rack and pinion steering stock.tires are 36/13/16 tsls.also had to make a new crosmember under the engine.i did not build the front bumper lol

[American]

that would be slick if it wasn't for the wheels and the bumper. Atleast should have painted the wagon wheels black, and tapered the bumper. But hey, you didn't build that part, so whatever... lol

[durcrim]

looks good man, mine will pretty much be a ford front end, but I have a steering box so I won't need to modify that part. The bumper could be turned into something nice, you just have to grind off the lower half haha.

[krweby]

Originally Posted by sledheadak

heres one i built.used thecomplete front suspension from a 77 f150.used 6" soft ride coils with 1.5-2 coils cut off to set ride height.this one was a 2001 durango r/t.i had to modify the frame to mount the ford steering box since it has rack and pinion steering stock.tires are 36/13/16 tsls.also had to make a new crosmember under the engine.i did not build the front bumper lol

Do you still have it? If so could you get some pictures of the engine mounts? They look different from the 98-99's and I'm wondering if they are any better.

Are you or where you still running the full time T-case?

[Mr. Mindless]

Originally Posted by krweby

Do you still have it? If so could you get some pictures of the engine mounts? They look different from the 98-99's and I'm wondering if they are any better.

I was thinking it looked like the parts of the center section were still bolted in place.

I still just want to make a cradle between mine under the oil pan, I think that will be enough.

[krweby]

Originally Posted by Mr. Mindless

I was thinking it looked like the parts of the center section were still bolted in place.

I still just want to make a cradle between mine under the oil pan, I think that will be enough.

Look the mount up on Napa's site. They look different. Are you going to just bolt it in or weld it? I like that I can get my oil pan off without lifting the engine or pulling it.

[Mr. Mindless]

I'll just bolt it in like the center section was. I have to bring it a ways back to clear my panhard which is less than ideal.

I wish the 2wd mounts lined up in the same place but the tabs on the frame are about 6-8" further fore or aft (I forget which) than ours.