V10 to 12V cummins swap....anyone done it? - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
 
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Old 09-20-2007, 07:03 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Question V10 to 12V cummins swap....anyone done it?

I'm trying to educate myself before I delve into a 12v Cummins swap.
I have a '95 V10 4X4 truck, and I just picked up a complete 12V Cummins package from a '97 CTD 4X4 wreck. The Cummins has had the pump tweaked, 370 injectors, and the trans has about 8500mi on a DTT rebuild and billet convertor. I also have the 241HD t-case, the Cummins harness and ecm, the trans harness (outside of firewall part only), fuel tank and lines, and the complete radiator support with the rad, intercooler, trans cooler, etc.
I know the V10 truck uses the same drivetrain, but the trans ecm (inside the truck cab) is different and according to a factory schematic, some of the wires are different. I know this is due to the fact that the cummins auto setup will have different parameters such as no MAP input and such.
What I'm wondering is if the Cummins auto harness will mate up to the V10 inside cab harness and I can simply plug in a Cummins auto ecm and make it work?
Also, what about the Cummins grid heaters....can I plug the Cummins outside harness into my V10 cab and be lucky enough to have it all work?
Also, I plan on getting a Diesal instrument cluster from a junkyard....will this plug into my V10 cab harness and magically have the diesal rpm guage work?
I'm wanting a fully functional factory appearing swap.
Anyone here have experience with this swap?
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Old 09-20-2007, 09:29 PM   #2 (permalink)
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i'd give this guy a call http://hotwireauto.com/

hes the man when it comes to chrysler conversions or ecm reprogramming or harness anything

And no you won't be able to plug in the trans harness and cluster and it will magically work.

The transmissions are quite different and won't be controlled the same way, same with the gauges

Brendan
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Old 09-21-2007, 06:27 AM   #3 (permalink)
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So what if he uses his '95 v10 tranny instead of the '97 tranny and went with '95 wiring for the motor?

I know on my '95 CTD there is very little that is computer controlled on that motor. The '97 would have had the RE tranny instead of an RH tranny which would make the wiring mismatched between the two years. I've poured over the factory wiring diagrams between the '95 gas trucks and the '95 diesel trucks but it is hard to tell the exact differences there. If I were you, I would get as much of the donor truck's wiring as possible and sit down with both harnesses and start checking connectors to verify if you have a match or not. As was already stated, between '95 and '97 there is the possibility that a lot of it will have changed, but knowing the way Chrysler does their wire harnessing I would guess that the motor and trans harness might play ok with the body wiring.
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Old 09-21-2007, 06:22 PM   #4 (permalink)
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How about if u could get the complete harness inside and out from the donor and the cluster. Would'nt this solve your wiring issues and tranny issues.
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Old 09-23-2007, 05:27 PM   #5 (permalink)
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sha_ba_do_bang , thanks for the tip. I'll e-mail Tony at HotWire and run this by him.
mondtster , Yeah, there's no issue at all with making the 12v Cummins run...I've already fabbed up
a test stand and fired it up. I'm just wanting to do a factory style swap with the correct instrument cluster,
and have my trans controls, ac, cruise control, etc operate as if it would have been an original Cummins equipped truck.
The biggest issue is going to be getting my grid heater and fuel heater to function correctly. I'd prefer not to wire an isolated circuit with manual controls ( my wife and my son may drive this thing from time to time ).
Red Chevy, I wish I could have got the complete in cab harness from the donor, but by the time I scored the deal the rest of the cab had already been carted off for scrap. The guy had previously pulled everything from the truck that he thought he could sell but he didn't have the foresight to save the in cab harness. If it come right down to it I'll search the junkyards for a '95 CTD truck and get a cab harness, but I'm thinking I can make what I have work. I'm just hoping to come across someone who has already been there and can possibly save me some steps.
Thanks for the suggestions guys......
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Old 09-23-2007, 07:32 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I think you misunderstood what I was getting at. There is absolutely no way I would put up with anything less than a factory like installation.

There are two options which will be the easiest. First option would be to find a '97 cab wiring harness and plug everything together using the '97 motor and '97 trans. Second option would be to find a '95 harness for the motor, trans, and cab and use your '95 v10 tranny (they are the same). Using the '95 wiring would require less electrical work as far as the swap is concerned because the tranny is 99.9% hydraulically controlled vs. the '97 which is partially electronic.

I can tell you from looking at the harness diagrams that there do appear to be differences at least in wire colors that were used between gas and diesel trucks. Unfortunately, I have no idea if the wire goes to the same place or not when the wires are different. I would bet that you could plug everything in and at least get it to start, but some of the accessories may not work correctly.

The third option (and possibly a viable one depending on your ambition) would be to just swap the motor and trans in and then create a conversion harness by hand wiring everything. That is the direction I will most likely go when I rebody my '95 with a truck body from the '50s.
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Old 09-24-2007, 04:02 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Lack of grid heaters wont hurt you that much. Half the time I dont use them on my 03 CTD. My buddy has a 95 12V, and the grid heater circuit was cut out when he bought it. Never has a problem firing it up. Its not really a show stopper.

Marshall
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Old 09-24-2007, 08:52 PM   #8 (permalink)
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whats wrong with the v10?
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Old 09-25-2007, 07:02 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I plan on using the '97 trans I got with the CTD because it is a fairly fresh built DTT unit. I've pretty much decided on hand wiring the harnesses together, but I've yet to come up with any good factory schematics for the
'97 CTD, and I only have a partial for the '95 V10. You wouldn't happen to have these schematics available would you mondtster?
We sometimes get some fairly cold temps here in the Ohio Winters....teens are common and sub-zero from time to time; so I'd like to keep my grid heaters for this reason. If I have to wire an isolated circuit for them I will, but I'd prefer for them to be automatic for safety reasons.
There is nothing wrong with the V10, it has right at 98,000mi on it and it runs great. It's just hard to keep paying $3 a gallon or more for fuel when you only get about 8-10mpg. Besides that I got a good deal on the Cummins stuff (swapped another truck and a couple hundred bucks for it). I knew the Cummins truck before it was wrecked, and it ran awesome and got 20mpg. I figure if someone offers me enough I'll sell the V10; if not I'll drop it in a future project.

Thanks again for the input guys.
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Old 09-25-2007, 08:46 AM   #10 (permalink)
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I realize my situation is slightly different, BUT...

I swapped a 94 Cummins into my 97 1500 with a 318. I had the complete CTD truck tho, so I had access to all the wiring harnesses and such. Most of the 97 1500 wiring harness worked fine from the cab back. I had to change the harness in the engine compartment of course, along with the ECU. Oddly enough, the dash harness was even the same. I simply plugged the diesel cluster straight into the 1500 harness -- I dont have a wait to start dummy light, but I always give it 30 seconds or so before starting.

I did a manual swap into the truck at the same time. Dealing with dodge auto trannies was something I did not want to do.

If you have any direct questions, PM me. It was actually a fairly easy swap. Motor mounts and all were the same. Even with a complete CTD truck, I was still nickel and dimed to death on small things.

GOOD LUCK.

Before and after pics. Stock dodge and then out on some rocks in Harlan KY.
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Old 11-19-2008, 07:23 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Well???

Wayne,
Were you able to get your V10 to 12v conversion done? If so how would feel about lending some advise and sharing your thoughts out it?
I would like to see some under the hood pics, you sound like you re just as anal as me! I hope for your sake it is done and my sake you were successful!

Todd
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Old 11-19-2008, 07:27 AM   #12 (permalink)
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^------ wow! nice looking dodge. got any more build pics or wheeling pics?
whats the specs on it?
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Old 11-19-2008, 07:17 PM   #13 (permalink)
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grid heaters are more of an emissions control device, not a cold-start-aid. we have alot of heavy equipment at work with mechanical 5.9s in them, and they have no grrid heaters at all, and no cold start aid either.

My '92 CTD no longer has them either....i took them out after i decided that they used wayyy too much battery power for what they actually did. i see absolutly no difference in the way the truck starts when its cold........slowly and smokes like a freight train
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Old 11-20-2008, 06:42 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I have a 97 auto diesel that had the drivetrain removed sitting in my back yard. If you need something from it I'd make you a deal but I won't give it away. PM me if interested
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Old 11-22-2008, 06:00 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by some zilch View Post
grid heaters are more of an emissions control device, not a cold-start-aid.

Not quite. I don't know where you get that idea from. My 97' starts way better when using the grid heater VS just cranking it over without using it atleast once. I will cycle the grid heater a couple times on a real cold day and it has always started even below zero and not plugged in. Anything that makes it easier on my engine to start I will gladly use.
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Old 11-29-2008, 04:49 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Did a 96 3500 extended cab 4x4

We eliminated the computer completely so no TPS and use toggles to shift trans.

Another change best suited to tropic/sub tropic areas was to eliminate the heat exchanger on pass/side of 12 valve that tranny cooling circuit flowed through, tranny will run much cooler this way. B&M super cooler w/fan and stat control keep tranny temps in check.
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