98 Dodge ram 3500 ABS and E-Brake light comes on when going 40mph - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
 
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Old 07-02-2009, 02:46 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Angry 98 Dodge ram 3500 ABS and E-Brake light comes on when going 40mph

Got this stupid bug. Every time i go around 40 miles an hour, my ABS and Brake light comes on! (note, my speed-O works perfectly) I restart the engine and the lights go off but comes back when traveling around 40 mph again. I know most people would say its the rear brake sensor thats mounted on the rear differential. So i have a 2001 dodge ram for parts and i took it off that truck.. Installed it and same thing.. Unpluged all my battery's for 12 hours hoping to reset the system and it still comes back...

Also i was driving and a car in front of me slammed on their brakes so i had to press hard on my brakes as well and noticed my wheels locked up pretty easily. What could be the issue? Could it be that both sensors are faulty and i just need to get a brand new one? I only have RW-ABS. Thanks
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Old 07-02-2009, 03:20 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Wheel speed sensors on the front?? Those might be built into the hub. So be ready to spend some $$$.

Why dont know go and have the codes pulled. Worse case it's your ABS module, but more likely a speed sensor somewhere on the vehicle.
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Old 07-02-2009, 04:22 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I went to a mechanic who's got a Snap On computer tester.. . He cleared my Check Engine light but said my truck cant communicate with his computer as my truck is a 1998 12v and is very limited on what he can do with the computer readings as everything is basic on that truck and lack electrical.

The Trucks computer wont allow him to get into the "ABS" part for any scanning. He said the Dealer can only access that. He still could but it would require some wires pulled and do individual wheel check which would take time. The Dealer wants $100 bucks just to connect to my computer.

Could it be that my rear differential sensor adjusted wrong? Does the sensor adjust at all? It seems like the sensor should adjust but when i tried it doesn't (of course i put little force because didn't want it to break). I herd of mechanics adjusting those things and one actually said might be that problem since abs and brake light comes on around 40mph.
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Old 07-02-2009, 04:40 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Dodges ain't my thing, but if its like fords, take out the front sensors and clean the crap out of the hole and sensor ring.

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Old 07-02-2009, 05:34 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Just came back from NAPA. Had them check for codes while the lights where on. Here is what i got but both me and NAPA rep are a bit confused what this means. Maybe somebody might know?

P1594 Manufacturer Control / Vehicle SP / IDLE Speed Control AVX inputs

P1389 Manufacturer Control Ignition System OR Misfire



Is that good enough information to point out to a specific problem for a mechanic? Does look like it uh?
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Old 07-02-2009, 05:41 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Wait.... isn't P1594 a VOLTAGE too high code? I do have my Dodge running an OUTSIDE Mopar circuit regulator from 80's dodge because my computer fails to turn on my alternator so i had to rewire it. I tested my truck while running and i am getting a reading between 14.85 to 15.15 volts. Too high still? Some say its good. On the Gauge its with-in "normal" range but almost boarder line.
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Old 07-02-2009, 07:10 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Whats the proper IDL RPM? My IDL is around 900 rpm. Is that too high? I think i go like 10mph in second gear IDLING


Come to think of it, my voltage regulator is running around 14.80 to 15.10 volts, ...Could that be caused by a high IDL? and if indeed that is high voltage due to high rpm, could that be the reason my p1594 Code?
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Old 07-02-2009, 07:25 PM   #8 (permalink)
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The ABS light and brake light are most likely caused by the rear axle speed sensor...dodge uses two sensors: one in the rear axle, and one in between the tcase and trans. I had this same thing happen in my 99 2500 and 94 1500.

Replace the sensor in the rear axle (top of the center chunk), and your ABS and brake light issue will probably go away.
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Old 07-02-2009, 09:08 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SurgeDS View Post
I went to a mechanic who's got a Snap On computer tester.. . He cleared my Check Engine light but said my truck cant communicate with his computer as my truck is a 1998 12v and is very limited on what he can do with the computer readings as everything is basic on that truck and lack electrical.

The Trucks computer wont allow him to get into the "ABS" part for any scanning. He said the Dealer can only access that. He still could but it would require some wires pulled and do individual wheel check which would take time. The Dealer wants $100 bucks just to connect to my computer.

Could it be that my rear differential sensor adjusted wrong? Does the sensor adjust at all? It seems like the sensor should adjust but when i tried it doesn't (of course i put little force because didn't want it to break). I herd of mechanics adjusting those things and one actually said might be that problem since abs and brake light comes on around 40mph.

There's no adjustment on the sensors. They are just drop in. It could be possible the sensor is a different part number between the years.
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Old 07-02-2009, 11:42 PM   #10 (permalink)
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check this problem on the TDR that is turbo diesel register. Just ask the question.
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Old 07-03-2009, 08:28 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SurgeDS View Post
Just came back from NAPA. Had them check for codes while the lights where on. Here is what i got but both me and NAPA rep are a bit confused what this means. Maybe somebody might know?

P1594 Manufacturer Control / Vehicle SP / IDLE Speed Control AVX inputs

P1389 Manufacturer Control Ignition System OR Misfire



Is that good enough information to point out to a specific problem for a mechanic? Does look like it uh?

P1594 says the charging system voltage is too high
P1389 says there is no ASD voltage present at the pcm

Niether one has anything to do with your abs light.
When you changed out the rear speed sensor with the spare/used one, did you happen to notice how shitty the gear oil looked? How many years has it been since you pulled the cover?
Its possible that the tone wheel is fawked up, or there is so much metal dust in the gear oil that it is throwing off the sensor...not likely, but possible.

Or you could just go to the dealer, and pay them...that way its fixed right the first time
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Old 07-03-2009, 09:37 AM   #12 (permalink)
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The ABS light and brake light are most likely caused by the rear axle speed sensor...dodge uses two sensors: one in the rear axle, and one in between the tcase and trans. I had this same thing happen in my 99 2500 and 94 1500.

Replace the sensor in the rear axle (top of the center chunk), and your ABS and brake light issue will probably go away.


So your saying my 2001 ABS sensor might be fault too?


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check this problem on the TDR that is turbo diesel register. Just ask the question.
What does that mean? I do have a HY35 turbo in their instead of HX35W because my HX35W was shot.
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Old 07-03-2009, 09:52 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Go to the TDR site which only deals with dodge diesel trucks and ask or tell about the problem and someone will tell you how to fix it.
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Old 07-03-2009, 10:22 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Go to www.cumminsforum.com that is a Dodge Cummins site and they won't harrass you and run you off like TDR. The guys on cumminsforum know there stuff. You can even find good deals on parts over there.
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Old 07-03-2009, 10:47 AM   #15 (permalink)
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It doesn't matter what website he goes to, all they can do is guess, and tell him to throw parts at it until he gets the abs codes pulled
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Old 07-05-2009, 05:01 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Today i notice my "Cruse Control doesn't work" Light comes up but doesn't hold speed. Also my Gauge and headlights flicker back and forth little bit if. What could it be? Bad computer causing all these issues?

I bet a mechanic could narrow it down to a sensor or connection now that theirs cruse control involved with the issue.
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Old 07-05-2009, 07:43 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Really dumb question, but have you checked the brake lights when all this is going on? Do they work? Are they stuck on? Is any of the wiring for the brake light switch modified for a brake controller or the like?

If the brake light switch is sticking, than after awhile the abs light and the red brake warning like will come on, cause they sense a problem, this will also make the cruise inop, cause it thinks you are riding the brakes
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Old 07-05-2009, 09:50 PM   #18 (permalink)
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abs & brake light

Had the same problem! did you check the ABS switch under the battery or the vaccum switch mounted by the firewall, vaccum leaks loose wires dirty wires,flush out brake system and add new fluid, how is your fluid level? check rear wheel sensors and the one on the rear Diff, try a new one!
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Old 07-06-2009, 07:25 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SurgeDS View Post
The ABS light and brake light are most likely caused by the rear axle speed sensor...dodge uses two sensors: one in the rear axle, and one in between the tcase and trans. I had this same thing happen in my 99 2500 and 94 1500.

Replace the sensor in the rear axle (top of the center chunk), and your ABS and brake light issue will probably go away.


So your saying my 2001 ABS sensor might be fault too?

From 1994 through 2002 (in the 2500/3500) they used a very similar braking system...individual sensors on the front wheels (when equipped with four wheel ABS) and a sensor for the rear wheels.

There are two speed sensors, the ABS sensor in the rear diff also functions as a low speed speed sensor, and that is the reason your speedo suddenly "works" after 40mph...it switches from the rear axle sensor and begins to read from the speed sensor in the trans.

However, it sounds like you may have multiple problems...cruise control vacuum controller, electrical, and the ABSs...
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Old 07-06-2009, 09:10 AM   #20 (permalink)
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He stated in the first post that the speedo works properly. And if the rear sensor was bad, it would only effect the speedo til 15 mph, not 40
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Old 07-06-2009, 10:20 AM   #21 (permalink)
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He stated in the first post that the speedo works properly. And if the rear sensor was bad, it would only effect the speedo til 15 mph, not 40

All three of my trucks were between 30 and 40mph?? And it was the rear ABS sensor every time. The speedo worked properly as long as I was above those speeds...drop below that speed (30 t0 40mph) and the speedo dropped to zero.

I think he has multiple issues, not one.

On edit, I see he clarified the part about the speedo...but I agree that it sounds like an ABS issue.

Last edited by steved; 07-06-2009 at 10:22 AM.
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Old 07-07-2009, 05:43 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Did some testing today... took it to a different mechanic. The Mechanic did a computer test and said that i am "not getting any voltage to my rear differential sensor"

I told him, how is that possible? My speedo wouldn't be working until like 25-30 miles if at all......... and he said "my speedo works off my transmission speed sensor and my rear differential sensor is ONLY ABS sensor."

So i paid him $33 dollars for the scan test and on my way i went home to do some testing.... Got home, un-pluged my clip from the rear sensor and put my volt meter in the 2 pin slot. Turn the ignition on and i got a reading of "4.85 volts" . So then i kept it unpluged and fire the truck up.. I decided to take it for a spin around the neighborhood. Turns out my Speedo did NOT WORK AT ALL WHEN UNPLUGGED FROM REAR SENSOR. So obviously the mechanic didn't know what he was talking about and i am getting power to my sensor. Once i plugged it in, my speedo is working again.

so WTF. Kept looking around. I notice the 4 "air vacuum lines" located on the transmission and goes up to the engine area. (the green line goes to no-where, it just has a funny clip in the end.) That has nothing to do with ABS does it? I started the truck and put my figure on my green line and seems it has no push nor suction.

...... back to step one. WTF is going with this truck LOL>
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Old 07-09-2009, 12:59 AM   #23 (permalink)
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bring it to a chrysler dealer ship we use a factory scan tool called the DRB III. It will pull the codes from the ABS module not the ECM like everyone else is/has. Once you get the codes from the ABS module you can make a diagnosis.
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Old 07-09-2009, 09:14 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Did some testing with my mulitmeter today. Found out my 2 pin clip that plugs into some kind of sensor way on top of the transmission isnt getting any voltage through those wires.

I even started the truck and still no voltage running through those wires. So that question is, what kind of sensor is that's mounted way on top of my manual transmission which has barely enough room to stick your hand their? ? I probably cant even remove that clip, it seems like its bolted? Cant see.

Other question is, the 2 wires / pin / clip SHOULD carry either 5 volts (like the rear sensor) or 12 volts (like the front axle sensor? Or no voltage?


Test i did.

1.unplugged rear Def sensor, speedo doesn't work..... proof that the sensor works. Also getting around 4.80 volts in the clip.

2. Tested front axle sensor. Getting 12 volts in that pin. (didnt try driving while unplug) Set my volt meter to 20 ohms and geting a "0" reading on the sensor. Is this right way to check for continuity?

3. Found some kind of sensor on top of transmission. Tested the 2 wire pin/ clip. No voltage comming... Its the same looking clip/pin like in front axle sensor. Front gets 12volts rear def sensor gets 4.80

4.Unplugged my Brake sensor switch. Played around with that a little bit while driving and other test, all seems good. (does click here and there sometimes.)


Any help thanks. 12v 5.9 3500 4x4 manual.
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Old 07-09-2009, 10:16 PM   #25 (permalink)
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What sensors are you talking about?? Top of the tranny?? Is it the back up light switch?

Front axle, you mean the disconnect servo??

Niether one have anything to do with the abs...

Did you check the brake lights yet?

How about the junction connector under the hood in the PDC? I don't remember what year they started using them, but there is a 10mm bolt that holds down a plug in the PDC, if you have one, take it off, and check for water intrusion.

If none of that shows up, take it to a damn dealer
If you lived close, I would already have come over and fixed it, just so you stopped beating your head against the wall
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