newer dodge unit bearing removal???

[getblown5.9]

They get $43 dollars for a chunk of metal with a hex head on one end...

im in the wrong fucking business

[lumpdog]

Originally Posted by Snowboarder

Yeah it fits you just have to be 5% smarter than what your working on. The hard ones to put back in are the aftermarket ones but I haven't had any not work this way and I do a lot of them

So did you just come on here to say that you were smarter than everyone else and be an ass? Or are you going to spill the beans on how to do this easier as you say? This is a tech help forum, if you have something to help, than add it. To just come on here and say "I know something you don't know" sounds like something that was played out in Kindergarten...







BTW, the socket trick has worked wonders for me, makes getting the hub off much easier now! Thanks to those that posted that little trick

[Snowboarder]

So take the tie-rod nuts off release the wheels from the steering, use a pry bar to remove u-clips prefebly 12 or 16" works well. You might have to use a air hammer with a chisel bit. Use the air hammer with the chisel bit to remove the caps then spin the axle one way and spin the wheel the other way and the u-joint will come out. Put the u-joint back in and push it to one side and slide a Cap in as far as it will go, use the air hammer with a round hammer bit to install the cap the rest of the way do this with the other caps and your done. after install is complete turn wheel and spin it to make sure a needle didn't fall out of place, if done carefully they won't fall out. We do it this way at my shop it takes about 1 to 1 1/2 hours to do both sides and you don't have to worry about bending the drag-link which can happen with the socket method.

[three60fish]

Meh, I watched my the whole thing while my dad CRANKED on the steering and I didn't see anything bending, even my half loose and almost worn, , tre wasn't doing anything funny. Plus I had the pipe placed between the rotor and the suspension mount which should, I think, in theory put more leverage on the setup, whatever. Isn't using an air-hammer on the cap kinda work against your point of "being careful" when doing this

[lumpdog]

Originally Posted by Snowboarder

So take the tie-rod nuts off release the wheels from the steering, use a pry bar to remove u-clips prefebly 12 or 16" works well. You might have to use a air hammer with a chisel bit. Use the air hammer with the chisel bit to remove the caps then spin the axle one way and spin the wheel the other way and the u-joint will come out. Put the u-joint back in and push it to one side and slide a Cap in as far as it will go, use the air hammer with a round hammer bit to install the cap the rest of the way do this with the other caps and your done. after install is complete turn wheel and spin it to make sure a needle didn't fall out of place, if done carefully they won't fall out. We do it this way at my shop it takes about 1 to 1 1/2 hours to do both sides and you don't have to worry about bending the drag-link which can happen with the socket method.

I figured that was what you were doing. Just wanted to see if you had found something different than that. It is one way to remove the unit bearing as well, after the cross is removed you can remove the lower ball joint nut and remove the knuckle from the truck and put it in the press to remove the unit bearing.

[trkklr77]

yeah, an air hammer and loose needle bearings. im not even going to try that. the socket trick take 30min tops to get severly stuck bearings out. ill spend the extra time to not risk scattering needle bearing or filling t ecap full of dirt.

[woodchuck2]

The socket trick works the best IMO but Yes, the u-joint can be changed without pulling the axles but IMO its not worth the hassle. I have never done it like snowboarder fella says, i have cut out the cross with a torch and burped the caps out with an air chisel but you really have to be careful of too much heat doing this. Same goes for the inner u-joint on the older TTB Fords, cut them out and install the new joint without pulling the axle.

[boing.]

Wanted to bump this thread (I know its old), working on my 01 dually, this thread saved my bacon on getting the unit bearing out. Had been struggling with removing them... Was about 15 mins for both sides (the unit bearings were original and had never been removed)...

Socket method works great!

[DR. SMASHER]

My turn to bump this thread. The socket trick hasn't worked for shit for me. I tried for 15 min switching alternating the bolt. Not a fucking ticks dick of movement. I sure did mar the hell outta the C and the socket. So I have just about given up and am going to heat and beat them out. I figure they will both die and will then have to replace them. I have 100k on the OEM but want to know if it is worth it or even possible to go with an upgrade? I haven't heard any good things about the aftermarket ones yet but was just wondering. I'm gonna give SpiderTrax a call tomorrow and see if they have anything.

Any help here would be great.

Oh yah I have tried a slide hammer, and puller built for that also.

[djgaston]

When the socket trick doesn't work, the only thing I have gotten to work is an air chisel. You'll fuck up the old hub and the face of the knuckle, but a grinder will clean up the knuckle. And once you get the hub separated a little, spray some PB Blaster/Liquid Wrench down in there and let it soak for a bit.

The upgrades are pretty nice. I ran a Dynatrac setup on my 3rd gen and it was great just because the front shaft quit spinning when in 2wd, so I had less vibration and less wear-and-tear. I didn't really see any MPG boost but I wasn't counting. Back then Dynatrac was the only one available, but now there are manual hub conversions from several companies. I can probably hook you up pretty good if you want a Yukon, SpynTech, or Dynatrac kit.

[DR. SMASHER]

I like the EMS Offroad conversion but I just don't want to get into that right now. Although I'm prolly getting close to that cost.

[u2slow]

A co-worker bought the snap-on tool and wrecked his steering box from strain. His bearings were really stuck. I wouldn't recommend this method.

[OR2BAJA]

I have the snap on tool and I have had a dozen different axles apart and my personal rig apart a bunch of times and I have only had to really use it once (intended use) but I mostly use it to hammer on the hub bolts an has been incredibly useful cause it does have the 18mm hex on the end. If you back out the bolts a couple threads and work them out a little at a time it makes for a lot stress on the steering box.

It's definitely a specialty tool and there is a reason and need for it does to a better job than an extension and socket because the socket will mushroom out where the snap on tool will sits flat and distributes the pressure across the head evenly.

I know this is an old thread but I thought I would put in my .02.

[DR. SMASHER]

Originally Posted by u2slow

A co-worker bought the snap-on tool and wrecked his steering box from strain. His bearings were really stuck. I wouldn't recommend this method.

My driver one is super stuck!

Can I pull the knuckle off without removing the unit bearing? Maybe I can get a better angle to hammer them out with a 10# sledge.

[djgaston]

I'm not saying it isn't possible, but I sure as hell don't know how you would get the knuckle all the way off the ball joints to slide the whole thing out. I've never tried but it doesn't seem like it would be easy to do without cutting the upper ball joint stud off.

Have you tried heat? Heat up the knuckle with a torch. You'll probably burn the grease in the hub but you are replacing it anyway.

[OR2BAJA]

Originally Posted by DR. SMASHER

My driver one is super stuck!

Can I pull the knuckle off without removing the unit bearing? Maybe I can get a better angle to hammer them out with a 10# sledge.

You can if you cut the ball joints. Heat, penetrating oil over a couple of days then back the hub assembly bolts a couple turns and get a 18mm and extension you do not care about and hammer each bolt out and work around the bolts backing them off little by little. Once you get some day light between the knuckle and hub take a chisel punch and pull all bolts out and go in vertically and do the same working around the hub going at an angle across where the bolt would go through so you don't bottom out the chisel on the hub. I have battled so coast rusted hubs and this the best way.

[DR. SMASHER]

Originally Posted by OR2BAJA

You can if you cut the ball joints. Heat, penetrating oil over a couple of days then back the hub assembly bolts a couple turns and get a 18mm and extension you do not care about and hammer each bolt out and work around the bolts backing them off little by little. Once you get some day light between the knuckle and hub take a chisel punch and pull all bolts out and go in vertically and do the same working around the hub going at an angle across where the bolt would go through so you don't bottom out the chisel on the hub. I have battled so coast rusted hubs and this the best way.

I'll try this thanks.

[trkklr77]

you can probably get the lower nut off with an open end wrench.

remove the upper nut and try to drive the adjuster collar.

remove the locking stuff off the shaft.

you just might be able to fanagle the knuckle off, its going to be a bitch though.






there is never a need to appollogize for bumping this thread, do it, keep it around and evolving, the more opinions and info the better.


i have yet to have a single issue since i began doing the socket trick. ive had a few wheel bearings really loosen up but they were there to be replaced in the first place.

[jamesdart]

must be a nj thing. i had to burn them out of mine. i did universals, ball joints and hubs all at once. i had to burn it all out. guy told me abou tth esocket trick i tried it on the second one and it didnt work.

[DR. SMASHER]

Originally Posted by jamesdart

must be a nj thing. i had to burn them out of mine. i did universals, ball joints and hubs all at once. i had to burn it all out. guy told me abou tth esocket trick i tried it on the second one and it didnt work.

Please esplain what did you burn exactly and what did you use?
I have Oxy MAPP combo and have heated parts of the knuckle till red and parts to just hot. Should I just rent Oxy acetylene and hit the bearing till its glowing?

EDIT: Problem ifI totally torch the bearing and stillcan't get it out I will have to get it towed to a shop.