D60 crossover steering

[Baja Binder]

What pitman arm should I use? I put the "box" in the 2 wheel drive position, and now I need a new pitman arm to finish this up. Also, where exactly are the plastic pins that I need to break off in the column so that the steering shaft will bolt back up? Thanks for any help! <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

[tv_larsen]

I have briefly looked into doing this on my own truck. I believe you need a 4" drop pitman arm. After moving the box to the 2wd position, I've been told you need a whole new steering shaft (perhaps a good time to get a Flaming River or Borgesen shaft) Then you *might* need to modify your crossmember.

[ 10-09-2001: Message edited by: tv_larsen ]

[Baja Binder]

Is the drop pitman the same drop pitman for a dodge lift that you see advertised in the mags, or off another vehicle. Which Borg./ Flame River shaft would you use? The two wheel drive length, or is it collapsable in order to use in either position? I was hoping to go to the wrecking yard and find the right pitman and shaft, but if I can order the right parts "new" then I guess I'll suck it up and spend the $$. <IMG SRC="smilies/crybaby2.gif" border="0">

[GRMhick]

If I am right, the arms for the dodges will move the arm more torward the engine. If I am correct (i could be wrong) an arm off an 78-79 full size bronco will fit, and a 4" drop bronco arm will work.

[Patman]

Basically for a Pitmann, anything Saginaw will work (assuming it's the right drop and length you need) we usually use Latemodel dodge ones, but we also drill them out for 3/4" Heims.

For the steering shaft, you can use the factory one, by just knocking out the two little plastic dowel pins. If you clean off the flat parts of the shaft you will usually see two little white spots (that's them).

You can also just use a 2wd shaft from a yard, but since the factory design (2wd and 4wd) is sloppy after about 10K miles, buying a borgeson shaft makes a very noticable difference in how "tight" the steering is. Definatley worth the money.

[Baja Binder]

Thanks boys! What service! I thought everybody was asleep on this board, but I guess not.

For the steering shaft, you can use the factory one, by just knocking out the two little plastic dowel pins. If you clean off the flat parts of the shaft you will usually see two little white spots (that's them).

There are 2 square looking white plastic tabs on the outer shaft of the column right at the end of the shaft near the shift mechanism. Are these the ones, or are they further up the column? How big is the diameter of these "pins"? I don't want to blow out the wrong ones.

buying a borgeson shaft makes a very noticable difference in how "tight" the steering is. Definatley worth the money.

Do you have a part #? I think Summit carries these, right?

As for the length and drop of the pitmann arm, what demensions do you guys recommend for a 6" lift on my 78 P.WAGON? I'd like to clear the crossmember without the use of the grinder/ sawzall.

Man, I thought owning a Dodge meant I'd be able to get "off the shelf" available parts, but it's just like my Scouts. I guess I do like the challenge though! <IMG SRC="smilies/beer.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/beer.gif" border="0">

[Patman]

The plastic dowels don't stick out. they are about 1/8" in diameter, and are between the firewall and the steering box, on the shaft, it should be obvious which part of the shaft is a collapsable unit (outer sleeve over a shaft)

As far as the pitmann, trail and error. The late ram one is a little short, but about a 6" drop. One good bet is to just keep your eye out in parking lots, take a peek and then go hunting at the yards.

Sometimes you can check with local steering shops. Locally here in SJ is Straight line Steering and they literally have a huge pile of arms, that you can rifle through.

[Baja Binder]

As far as the pitmann, trail and error. The late ram one is a little short, but about a 6" drop.

Thanks Patman, but does this arm clear the crossmember, or do I need to hack it? How is the turning radius? Do you happen to know the length of this arm?

The plastic dowels don't stick out. they are about 1/8" in diameter, and are between the firewall and the steering box, on the shaft, it should be obvious which part of the shaft is a collapsable unit (outer sleeve over a shaft)

I am aware of the sleeve over shaft area, but I have not yet found the 2(?) pins. How far up the "sleeve" are they, and are they on the top and bottom, or the sides of the sleeve? Also, how do you recommend breaking these? Thanks again! <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

[Baja Binder]

Well I've done some checking in regards to the shaft and it appears that a shaft from a 74-79 ford f150/250/350 will be the right length for the column to box. I'll be going to picknpull to look for one. If it's the right length and has a u-joint at the box then I'll give it a try. Also, "PARTSMIKE" is taking a drop pitmann arm with the right drop and length and tapering it to the "large" taper. He also has the D60 steering arm, custom length draglink, and TRE'S. If all this works out then I'll post some part #'s for those of you wanting to do this swap to crossover steering. <IMG SRC="smilies/beer.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/beer.gif" border="0">

[jensenkennels]

Originally Posted by Baja Binder

What pitman arm should I use? I put the "box" in the 2 wheel drive position, and now I need a new pitman arm to finish this up. Also, where exactly are the plastic pins that I need to break off in the column so that the steering shaft will bolt back up? Thanks for any help! <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

A blast from the past.
I'm finishing the high/crossover steering on my '79 4door. Specs-6" SJ softride,NWFab highsteer/crossover arms,steering gear in 2wd position on frame,Redneck Ram assist,6" shackles,PJTPW's 1 1/2" rear shackle mounts. Motor-CTD
I've researched ALOT of of old posts trying to determine what I need for a pitman arm. Never found a real definitive answer, so let's pump some life into this old thread.
What should I use for a pitman arm? Remember, I've got a CTD sittin' in the crossmember, so I can't trim it to get clearance for the drag link.

MADDOG

[Old Scout]

Originally Posted by jensenkennels

A blast from the past.
I'm finishing the high/crossover steering on my '79 4door. Specs-6" SJ softride,NWFab highsteer/crossover arms,steering gear in 2wd position on frame,Redneck Ram assist,6" shackles,PJTPW's 1 1/2" rear shackle mounts. Motor-CTD
I've researched ALOT of of old posts trying to determine what I need for a pitman arm. Never found a real definitive answer, so let's pump some life into this old thread.
What should I use for a pitman arm? Remember, I've got a CTD sittin' in the crossmember, so I can't trim it to get clearance for the drag link.

MADDOG

Baja Binder is a good buddy of mine, he is in the middle of Baja wind surfing for the next week or so.

[dogbender]

Are you ready for this? I took the 4x4 Ramcharger arm and bent it to the necessary angle with a torch and my 40 ton press. I've used it hard for two years now. I even tore the box off the frame once. The front of the cross member was trimmed to clear.

[cannoncrawler]

I bump-stopped my ramcharger so that the crossover arm would not hit the cross member. I have 4 inch lift and have not had trouble. anything higher should clear.

[98hd]

http://rockcharger.com/rcs/rockcharger/crossover3.html

[GO OVRIT]

I just finished my 92 CTD last night. 6" Alcan springs, 1" longer shackles, borgenson shaft, and AGR box. I got the draglink, ends, steering arm, and pitman arm from Shakerbuilt here in va. The arm looks just like the ORD arm. Its the same drop as a 4" drop Skyjacker(which I broke on my 93), but a good bit longer. I have plenty of clearance between the crossmember.

[spitz pdc]

i just finished this. i had a heck of a time with mine. with my box in the 2wd position and the recommended pitman arm , my pitman was directly over the tie rod arm. also with a straight drag link everything was close to the crossmember, so i moved the box as far down as i could on the frame (@ 2") btw that sucked. and i removed the crossmember and made a new one under the oil pan, but now the pitman was to close to my springs. so i replaced that pitman with a 1" drop pitman off similar length and knotched out my frame and remounted the drag link to atatch from the top side of the pitman arm. the whole is badass now but

hope this helps and yours goes smoother . if you need better info or pics let me know. sounds like these guys have some better options though

[spitz pdc]

oh yeah mine has high steer as well, maybe that was the difference?