So I've been wanting to do a free-spin kit for quite a while now, ever since I started worrying about losing a unit bearing in the middle of nowhere while towing. I had replace my ball joints at 85K, and now at 135k they needed replacing again. So how to do a free-spin setup and fix the ball joint issue at the same time? Being a dually makes it a little more expensive and involved as several of the manufacturers don't sell a dually kit, you have to do a single wheel kit and then spend $400-500 more on wheel spacers. Then you add the rebuildable/more durable ball joints and you're in the $2500-$2800 range all said and done.
So I came up with the idea of using a kingpin Setup off of a Dana 60 axle, sounds good right? After going over it in my head and taking measurement after measurement I came up with the resolution that it should work out fine.
I sourced a 79 Chevy Dually Dana 60 from a friend who just wanted the center section and tubes for his project, $200 for everything from the inner "C" out. I then purchased yukon 35spline stubs, warn premiums, 5-806 spicer joints, spindle rebuild kit (bearing, seal, etc), new loaded calipers, kept the old bearings but they are in excellent shape, kept the old rotors, chevy and ford tie-rods. The kingpin cones were good, and I was given a camber adjuster kit from my buddy Jake.
Step 1 was to have the inner "C" of the knuckles bored out to 3.503 to go over the dodge tubes which are 3.500
STep 2 The axle shafts proved to be easier than I expected. The diameter of the AAM u-joints is identicle to the diameter of the 5-806x joints. the width of the yoke is just a little narrower on the AAM inner shaft so there is no groove on the joint cap for the circle clips so I tacked the caps in on the inner shafts and used full circle clip on the yukon shafts.
Step 3 I cut the inner C's off the AAM tube (who'd want them anyway) gound off the weld the rest of the way and tapped on the new D60 inner C's. I set the caster at 5*. I then assembled the whole side to get the depth correct for side to side throw of the axle shaft when turning. It turned out that the inner C needs to be out about .250 from flush unlike the AAM C's which were flush. But, that enabled me to get a nice flush weld on the tube end for added strength since the C's are not pressed on.
Step 4 Weld it all up
Step 5 Assembly including brake lines which work fine just need to source chevy banjo bolts as the AAM are fine threaded.
Step 6 cut chevy tie-rod and lengthen 5.125" for wider stance of the dodge.I cut about 8 inches off the dodge drag link and added on 8 or so inches of a ford tie rod end. I had to ream out the steering stabilizer hole on the chevy tie-rod which would now be the drag link mounting hole. Two tabs on the tie-rod and the stabilizer is good to go.
Step 7 I set camber at plumb on the passenger side and out on the top a degree or so on the driver side to avoid wander. I set the tow in at about 3/16 in 3ft.
Step 8 Paint
Step 9 Drive and I couldn't be happier. It tracks true, and after a little adjustment my steering wheel is even straight
So I came up with the idea of using a kingpin Setup off of a Dana 60 axle, sounds good right? After going over it in my head and taking measurement after measurement I came up with the resolution that it should work out fine.
I sourced a 79 Chevy Dually Dana 60 from a friend who just wanted the center section and tubes for his project, $200 for everything from the inner "C" out. I then purchased yukon 35spline stubs, warn premiums, 5-806 spicer joints, spindle rebuild kit (bearing, seal, etc), new loaded calipers, kept the old bearings but they are in excellent shape, kept the old rotors, chevy and ford tie-rods. The kingpin cones were good, and I was given a camber adjuster kit from my buddy Jake.
Step 1 was to have the inner "C" of the knuckles bored out to 3.503 to go over the dodge tubes which are 3.500
STep 2 The axle shafts proved to be easier than I expected. The diameter of the AAM u-joints is identicle to the diameter of the 5-806x joints. the width of the yoke is just a little narrower on the AAM inner shaft so there is no groove on the joint cap for the circle clips so I tacked the caps in on the inner shafts and used full circle clip on the yukon shafts.
Step 3 I cut the inner C's off the AAM tube (who'd want them anyway) gound off the weld the rest of the way and tapped on the new D60 inner C's. I set the caster at 5*. I then assembled the whole side to get the depth correct for side to side throw of the axle shaft when turning. It turned out that the inner C needs to be out about .250 from flush unlike the AAM C's which were flush. But, that enabled me to get a nice flush weld on the tube end for added strength since the C's are not pressed on.
Step 4 Weld it all up
Step 5 Assembly including brake lines which work fine just need to source chevy banjo bolts as the AAM are fine threaded.
Step 6 cut chevy tie-rod and lengthen 5.125" for wider stance of the dodge.I cut about 8 inches off the dodge drag link and added on 8 or so inches of a ford tie rod end. I had to ream out the steering stabilizer hole on the chevy tie-rod which would now be the drag link mounting hole. Two tabs on the tie-rod and the stabilizer is good to go.
Step 7 I set camber at plumb on the passenger side and out on the top a degree or so on the driver side to avoid wander. I set the tow in at about 3/16 in 3ft.
Step 8 Paint
Step 9 Drive and I couldn't be happier. It tracks true, and after a little adjustment my steering wheel is even straight