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My DIY 2005 Dodge Dually 4x4 5.9L free-spin kit

33K views 50 replies 22 participants last post by  MAIDEN_ 
#1 · (Edited)
So I've been wanting to do a free-spin kit for quite a while now, ever since I started worrying about losing a unit bearing in the middle of nowhere while towing. I had replace my ball joints at 85K, and now at 135k they needed replacing again. So how to do a free-spin setup and fix the ball joint issue at the same time? Being a dually makes it a little more expensive and involved as several of the manufacturers don't sell a dually kit, you have to do a single wheel kit and then spend $400-500 more on wheel spacers. Then you add the rebuildable/more durable ball joints and you're in the $2500-$2800 range all said and done.
So I came up with the idea of using a kingpin Setup off of a Dana 60 axle, sounds good right? After going over it in my head and taking measurement after measurement I came up with the resolution that it should work out fine.
I sourced a 79 Chevy Dually Dana 60 from a friend who just wanted the center section and tubes for his project, $200 for everything from the inner "C" out. I then purchased yukon 35spline stubs, warn premiums, 5-806 spicer joints, spindle rebuild kit (bearing, seal, etc), new loaded calipers, kept the old bearings but they are in excellent shape, kept the old rotors, chevy and ford tie-rods. The kingpin cones were good, and I was given a camber adjuster kit from my buddy Jake.
Step 1 was to have the inner "C" of the knuckles bored out to 3.503 to go over the dodge tubes which are 3.500
STep 2 The axle shafts proved to be easier than I expected. The diameter of the AAM u-joints is identicle to the diameter of the 5-806x joints. the width of the yoke is just a little narrower on the AAM inner shaft so there is no groove on the joint cap for the circle clips so I tacked the caps in on the inner shafts and used full circle clip on the yukon shafts.
Step 3 I cut the inner C's off the AAM tube (who'd want them anyway) gound off the weld the rest of the way and tapped on the new D60 inner C's. I set the caster at 5*. I then assembled the whole side to get the depth correct for side to side throw of the axle shaft when turning. It turned out that the inner C needs to be out about .250 from flush unlike the AAM C's which were flush. But, that enabled me to get a nice flush weld on the tube end for added strength since the C's are not pressed on.
Step 4 Weld it all up
Step 5 Assembly including brake lines which work fine just need to source chevy banjo bolts as the AAM are fine threaded.
Step 6 cut chevy tie-rod and lengthen 5.125" for wider stance of the dodge.I cut about 8 inches off the dodge drag link and added on 8 or so inches of a ford tie rod end. I had to ream out the steering stabilizer hole on the chevy tie-rod which would now be the drag link mounting hole. Two tabs on the tie-rod and the stabilizer is good to go.
Step 7 I set camber at plumb on the passenger side and out on the top a degree or so on the driver side to avoid wander. I set the tow in at about 3/16 in 3ft.
Step 8 Paint
Step 9 Drive :) and I couldn't be happier. It tracks true, and after a little adjustment my steering wheel is even straight :)
 

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#14 ·
Bad Ass Tyson! I can't believe you got it done in a weekend. Some pretty impressive shit keeps rolling out of that shop. I'll call you, but let me know if you guys want to do dinner at our place on Friday night.
 
#15 ·
Ya nice job Tyson, and a good thread to boot!



Now get your lift on that thing.......GRANDPA!:flipoff2:
 
#18 ·
Air bags and ABS are for people who can't control their vehicle and crash. Don't crash and you won't need them. I disco'd the rear ABS on my 91, it was a joke. You could modulate the pedal faster yourself than the "computer" could do it:eek::laughing:
Travis..
 
#20 ·
I heard of too many people rearending cars on ice from the abs not letting front brakes do their work.

Now there's a new toyota invesigation because a new Lexus is having issues with the stability control letting the rear end drift when going to fast around corners."I can't drive, blame the car!":shaking:

Nice upgrade at a decent price:beer:
 
#25 ·
That was my only real concern when I came up with the idea of the swap. I tried to locate some dual piston calipers for the Chevy 60 but was unable too. I did get a lot of input on the Chevy forum as to how well the calipers will stop a 44" tire though.
The rotors are about 1/2" diameter smaller on the chevy and of course have the huge single piston caliper as opposed to the dual on the AAM. Honestly I really don't notice a change in stopping power. I haven't towed a heavy load yet, but I do use the exhaust brake for most of my braking when towing heavy. If it becomes an issue I already looked into upgrading to EBC Slotted rotors and good pads eventually.
 
#24 ·
the rotor size difference is insignificant. the D-60 is something like .25 or .5" smaller diameter. you can't tell even under a hard brake. I was wondering the the advantage/disadvantage of the single piston caliper versus 2 piston as far as clamping force and heat dissipation? I think the quality pads help more than anything
 
#29 ·
I lost the swaybar at 25K while visiting up here in MT, got stuck in the snow and had no factory points to pull from so we pulled from the sway-bar. It ripped off and tore the tank off the radiator, all in all a fun trip :D

Nice swap. If you'd gone with Ford outers you'd have been able to have a twin piston caliper but I think the rotors are the same size. I doubt you'd really notice with the hydroboost. That said, I'm going Ford when I do mine. I have those twin pot stoppers on my Dakota and love them.
I wanted the stronger Chevy inner C's so I went that way and it came with all the chevy stuff. I agree on the dual piston calipers. Maybe down the road I'll switch it out, but I doubt it. It seems to stop just like normal, it'll depend on how fast the pads wear I guess.
 
#28 ·
Nice swap. If you'd gone with Ford outers you'd have been able to have a twin piston caliper but I think the rotors are the same size. I doubt you'd really notice with the hydroboost. That said, I'm going Ford when I do mine. I have those twin pot stoppers on my Dakota and love them.
 
#30 · (Edited)
I lost the swaybar at 25K while visiting up here in MT, got stuck in the snow and had no factory points to pull from so we pulled from the sway-bar. It ripped off and tore the tank off the radiator, all in all a fun trip :D

I saw the tore up bracket in the picture and suspected it met with an untimely demise. :laughing: Does it matter much? With a dually I suspect not.
 
#32 ·
Step 7 where you set the passenger side at plumb (0% caster?) and out on the left a couple of degrees (out is - or back toward the firewall?) Just to make that clear. Most stuff is laid back a little to enhance straight line stability, gives a little layover on the tires when steering.
 
#34 ·
I think he meant camber in step 7 since he said he set caster to 5˚ in step 3.
Yes, camber. Sorry.
Caster was set at 5*. Camber was set a little out on the top on the driver side and plumb on the passenger side to compensate for the crown in the road. It drives perfectly straight with it set that way. I'll have it alligned with the new set of tires.
 
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