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Old 01-21-2012, 05:27 PM   #326 (permalink)
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An NP205 is worth buying for the right price if you are looking for brute strength and don't mind the taller low range gear.
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Old 01-21-2012, 07:20 PM   #327 (permalink)
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"An NP205 is worth buying for the right price if you are looking for brute strength and don't mind the taller low range gear."

Couldn't that be made up for with axle gearing?
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Old 01-21-2012, 08:33 PM   #328 (permalink)
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Yes, or a doubler or a granny gear manual transmission will also make a huge difference.
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Old 01-21-2012, 08:35 PM   #329 (permalink)
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Black Box NWF. Thats what I am putting infront of my Atlas II
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Old 01-22-2012, 08:11 AM   #330 (permalink)
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COOL. The black box looks sweet. Like the fact that there is not a major length increase. Comes in 23 spline to for my 727 application.
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Old 01-22-2012, 09:29 PM   #331 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ffdustyw View Post
Honestly running 33's you will be fine. Biggest thing about running an offroad rig is knowing your weak spots up front and remembering them when you decide to hit the go pedal. I do it all the time running 54's. I know what is going to break when I start to hit the edge. If you are crawling and start spinning them stop and take a different line. Half of making the parts live is driving style.
I seem to fallow the logic if your wheels are spinning and you aren't going anywhere, chances are you need to rethink the route. (or grab the winch)


Can't find anything on NFW, ORD or google about a 203 to 208 adapter, anyone know of a secrete window I couldn't find? I think I might have to find a 205, but I would like to stay chain drive and aluminum cased to conserve what little gas mileage I have.
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Old 02-14-2012, 10:32 PM   #332 (permalink)
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super 60 rear options

:bump:

b/c someone hasn't taken a hit here in a bit.

srt-10 trucks using a dana super 60 in the back. From searching and a confirmed call to West Coast Diff, 5.13 gears are not a plenty. 4.10, 5.38 and some others though.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dana_60#Dana_Super_60

Quote:
The Dana Super 60 is an upgraded version of the Dana 60 front axle.
Differences in the Dana Super 60 versus the regular Dana 60:
Larger and thicker diameter steel tubes (3.75 inches diameter and 1/2 in thick)
Larger ring and pinion which increase the contact area and overall strength.
Larger Universal Joints which increase strength and steering angle.
Super 60s use 1550 Universal Joints.
Net formed spider gears for increased strength.
All made with 35 Spline axle shafts.
This axle was used only as a medium duty unit until the Third Generation F-450 Pick up began production. The Third Generation F-450 pick up is a light duty truck. This axle is still used in the medium duty F-450 and F-550 4x4 trucks as well.
I understand that the ring gear is 10" over the nominal 9.75" for the rinky dink 60.

So here's my question: can the super 60 axle take guts of a rinky dink 60? e.g. arb, tone ring, r&p for 5.13? I'm thinking no mostly b/c of the pinion, but that's just an assumption.

Curious about your folks thoughts on this super idea!

thanks
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Old 02-20-2012, 08:17 AM   #333 (permalink)
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Rough Idle....

I've got an 89' 1/2 ton with Tbi that idles real rough for a couple of minutes then clears up and runs like a top. Any ideas as to what causes this?
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Old 02-20-2012, 10:09 AM   #334 (permalink)
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Have you checked the codes?
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Old 02-20-2012, 10:38 AM   #335 (permalink)
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I dont have anyway to check them..I need to break down and buy a code reader. Probably save me a hell of alot of head scratching.
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Old 02-20-2012, 12:58 PM   #336 (permalink)
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Nah, all the older Mopars with computers have a way to flash the codes built in. Check this out:

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/fault/index.html

The codes will flash the Check Engine lamp on the system sentry or whatever it's called above the heat and A/C controls.
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Old 02-20-2012, 02:09 PM   #337 (permalink)
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I went out and tried it but get nothing. I think the message center may be the victim of a previous owners Hacked up stereo/C.B. install. Kinda wish I hadnt looked under the dash. I hate wiring problems. I book marked the link though, thanks for the tip.
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Old 02-21-2012, 01:32 PM   #338 (permalink)
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fuel module

so i broke the plastic lines that go into the top of the fuel module on a 1990
w350 360 gas motor. no one is repoping these things for this year. two wrecking yard searches have netted two more broken modules when they
went to disassemble.

any ideas on fixing the old one or an interchange to something else?
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Old 02-21-2012, 10:51 PM   #339 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by srt8mpg View Post
so i broke the plastic lines that go into the top of the fuel module on a 1990
w350 360 gas motor. no one is repoping these things for this year. two wrecking yard searches have netted two more broken modules when they
went to disassemble.

any ideas on fixing the old one or an interchange to something else?
Is there anything left to hook a new line to? Dorman makes "universal" plastic line repair kits, or you could run new line. Fluid Connectors and Premier Rubber both stock the plastic line. ( Assuming your "Portland" is on the west coast )
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Old 02-23-2012, 06:20 AM   #340 (permalink)
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'91 Ram 350 4x4 dually Cummins 5-speed, 4.10:1, 68K miles of abuse, few questions:
LF lock-in thing has damaged teeth. Best replacement is Warn, correct?
LF U-joint is sloppy. Is there a seal in the outer end of the long tube? Is there supposed to be a bearing there?
LF caliper, can't see how to remove it to pull
Rear pinion seal is bad, don't see metal shield. Just get new seal at local auto parts store?
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Old 02-23-2012, 06:41 AM   #341 (permalink)
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I'm going to assume "LF" is left front and the "lock-in thing" means the locking hub. If the hubs are internal, Warn would be a good replacement, if they are external you will have to stick with Milemarker Selectros.

There is no seal on the end of the axle tube on your front Dana 60. The only bearing is the bearing on the inside of the spindle which can cause the axle to flop around a bit.

To remove the caliper, remove the lock bolt with the flat head on the adaptor, then use a drift to knock the support keys and springs out. Pay close attention to how they come out since you will have to put them back in later.

Your rear axle is a D70 and uses shims for preload. Just pull the yoke to replace the seal then replace the yoke and torque the nut to 250-270 ft. lbs. Technically you should use an inch pound needle or dial torque wrench to measure the rotation, take the reading, then torque the nut between those specs so that the rotational torque is the same as recorded. Most people just fudge it and torque it to spec and it seems to work out in most cases.
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Old 02-23-2012, 09:42 AM   #342 (permalink)
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Thank you!
Is this pic enough to determine Warn or Milemarker?

BTW, I know the Budd-style? wheel is ancient and dangerous. It's temporary.

Last edited by oldenginebuilder; 02-23-2012 at 09:44 AM.
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Old 02-23-2012, 10:15 AM   #343 (permalink)
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Those are internal hubs and are basically Warn standard hubs.

Also, nothing wrong with split ring rims if they are used correctly. They are frequently confused with split rims, which are a bit different and more dangerous. Usually the issues with split ring rims are due to ignorance of the person mounting the tires or damaged rings. BTW, Budd rims are the newer, now more common style of rim that are one piece and have no seperate ring.
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Old 02-24-2012, 04:10 AM   #344 (permalink)
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Interesting, but not really useful since those old wheels are going the way of buggy whips. The new, correct wheels should arrive soon, just $90 each.
And again my thanks for answering my questions.
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Old 02-27-2012, 01:16 PM   #345 (permalink)
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whos the guy that machines the pass side knuckles for crossover steering? Thank you
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Old 02-27-2012, 01:31 PM   #346 (permalink)
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Pretty much any machine shop that has a machinist with a brain. Dodge knuckles are already flat, they just need to be trued up and have the holes drilled and tapped.
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Old 02-27-2012, 07:55 PM   #347 (permalink)
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Do I have to remove the transfer case to replace a front output yoke on an np233?
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Last edited by stickbug; 03-01-2012 at 10:58 PM.
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Old 03-04-2012, 07:28 PM   #348 (permalink)
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I have a dana 44 out of a 79 ford. I am wanting to put dodge full time(8 lug) knuckle outs on the dana. I am having a hard time finding the dodge knuckles anyone know where to look on the internet? Also wondering what stub axles the fulltime dodge uses and what type of caliper bracket?
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Old 04-02-2012, 10:09 AM   #349 (permalink)
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Bumping this thread back up.

Looking for a high output alternator for the 440 I'm building. Specifically, I was looking at the GM "one-wire" alternators like the CS-144 that come in 140A variations.

Do these "bolt-in" with the stock bracketry? I see most come with serpentine pulleys, which v-belt pulley would swap on (i.e. same ID on pulleys).

I saw the wiring diagram in Dusty's thread, so thanks for that Elwenil.
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Old 04-02-2012, 10:42 AM   #350 (permalink)
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140A would be to much for a V belt. 100A is just about max what you can do without changing belts every so many hours.
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