Another 1 ton Dakota

[Befy]

Build specs were:

1978 Ford bastard 44 with 84 1/2 ton outters
1978 Ford 9"
leaf sprung
3.9L swapped to 5.2L
116 wheelbase

New specs are
5.2L maybe a 5.9L cam
3 Link front with 18" coil over remote res.
4 Link rear with 16" coil over remote res.
120" wheelbase
Back 1/2 frame will be tube with bedsides shortened to fit new wheelbase
Front will get a bit more stretch as well.

I can't find any pics of it stock...

First lift and 33's

[Befy]

Action shot



Yep


Blew up another V6

Soo
YouTube - The v8 lives!

After my fist competition










Roommate putting in some 5:38 gears



Front Stretch

[Befy]

Grinding sucks




How it sits today just about


Did get some heavy rubberz

[SASclubcab4x4]

wow.. that comp must have kicked your ass, you went from a running truck to the axles gone tires gone and the body looks like it was a beat to shit tin can.

What did you use for steering? The ford box?

[BIGBEN68]

not all the "custom" body work was from the one comp. but it did add a lot of it.

the 44 front did not like the 38's so he figured to go bigger. i just want to see what he got for new rubber for the beast.

[Befy]

Originally Posted by SASclubcab4x4

wow.. that comp must have kicked your ass, you went from a running truck to the axles gone tires gone and the body looks like it was a beat to shit tin can.

What did you use for steering? The ford box?

ya it was a rough comp.

For steering I actually am still using the stock box with a drop pitman arm on it with hydro assist.

And some 43 x 14.50 x 17's are on the way to me.

[Befy]

Got some work done today..





:woot:

[Highrolleres]

i like the cage work.Ive been thinking of putting a dakota cab on my ramcharger.

[Elwenil]

Is the rear hoop even with the back of the cab or is it behind it? If it's overlapping the cab you are going to not be able to properly brace it on the frame. You should move it back behind the cab so a cross bar and X bracing can be put in. Otherwise the first time you roll or flop it's going to shift the whole cage over into the body and possibly collapse.

[ffdustyw]

Originally Posted by Elwenil

Is the rear hoop even with the back of the cab or is it behind it? If it's overlapping the cab you are going to not be able to properly brace it on the frame. You should move it back behind the cab so a cross bar and X bracing can be put in. Otherwise the first time you roll or flop it's going to shift the whole cage over into the body and possibly collapse.

I was thinking the same thing. He's still working on it so I wasn't going to say anything. I still need to put a cross brace in mine but I didn't want to do it till I figure out what I am going to do with the fuel cell in the rear.

[dodgestrike]

If he makes some sliders and weld the cage on them he can keep the hoop where it is so it serves as protection to the side of the cab. Or am i wrong

Something like this:

[Elwenil]

No, there is no support for the sides of the cage. Look at the pics of the rear hoop from the rear end of the rig. There is no support for the hoop and it's only attachment to the frame is at a 90° angle to a downward hit and is just a butt-weld to the frame rail. It will need bracing to keep it from collapsing across the middle and to support it from the frame to the upper corners to keep it from deforming that way or just snapping off the frame altogether. Even if the welds on the hoop hold on the frame, the 90° bend will collapse. As it stands it's good to mount a light bar on but it's not structurally sound. I know it's unfinished and I held off saying something about it to see it from another angle but I'm pretty sure that hoop is too far up on the cab to be anything structural.

[dodgestrike]

I see your point ,what i meant is that if the cage is welded to sliders it won't have that 90° angle.I can still be mistaken tho.

[Elwenil]

Then the sliders would be the 90° angle. It's the worst part about building an exo because it is always a weak link.

[Befy]

Yea it's actually over the body I have added a side load brace I'll get a pic of it tomorow. Should stop any side to side movement. Thanks for the input guys this is my first actual cage build or even attempt with a bender. Learning lots for sure.

[Befy]

My other option is to cut the body... It may happen I've not decided yet.

Edit -



Ideas

[Befy]

Or I could go this rout and not cut the body at all this is my current plan I think.


These tubes will be attached to whats left of the stock frame.

[Elwenil]

Go with the second pic, but you are going to have to shift the hoop to the rear if there is no room to intersect that hoop with tubing behind the cab. If it's bent in to connect to the tube it will not be a strong joint.

[Befy]

Eva approves

[thegoofster21]

looks badass like the tube work!!!

[Mr. Mindless]

lovin it!

[mog-10]

i like it and that's coming from a chevy guy

[Befy]

Any opinions

[silvrbeastjr]

Originally Posted by Befy

Any opinions

too fancy. just build it.

just kidding. do it right the first time. get your numbers right and build it correctly. good luck.

[Befy]

Originally Posted by silvrbeastjr

too fancy. just build it.

just kidding. do it right the first time. get your numbers right and build it correctly. good luck.

hahaah thanks!

I did find some flaws in it I had a buddy run the numbers for me while I kept welding on the cage.

I have 40 days to finish this pig.

Tomorrow I'll get the crossmember built and the links set in place maybe also get the shock hoops done.